How do i turn ls1 without starter?
#1
Racer
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Location: Blacksburg Virginia
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How do i turn ls1 without starter?
I'm transplanting an ls1 into my 84.
I need to turn the engine to align the flywheel and torque converter.
The starter is removed because that's where I have to attach the bolts.
I tried to turn the engine using the harmonic balancer bolt but it feels like I'm going to break the bolt off. Is there another way to rotate the engine?
I need to turn the engine to align the flywheel and torque converter.
The starter is removed because that's where I have to attach the bolts.
I tried to turn the engine using the harmonic balancer bolt but it feels like I'm going to break the bolt off. Is there another way to rotate the engine?
#2
Melting Slicks
I'm transplanting an ls1 into my 84.
I need to turn the engine to align the flywheel and torque converter.
The starter is removed because that's where I have to attach the bolts.
I tried to turn the engine using the harmonic balancer bolt but it feels like I'm going to break the bolt off. Is there another way to rotate the engine?
I need to turn the engine to align the flywheel and torque converter.
The starter is removed because that's where I have to attach the bolts.
I tried to turn the engine using the harmonic balancer bolt but it feels like I'm going to break the bolt off. Is there another way to rotate the engine?
The engine should rotate easy enough via the ballancer bolt, remove the spark plugs to check it turns over.
#5
Safety Car
Turn over
After pulling the plugs, turn the crank using a breaker bar or something someone told me: use the bolt on the alternator. They said if the plugs are out it will turn over using the alt bolt easily. I've never done that one, so assuming it works as I was told.
#8
Race Director
#9
Race Director
I turned mine by putting a large screwdriver into the torque converter bolt bosses. I have also used the holes in the flex plate.
If the plugs are still in it you can turn it a little way and then compression will make it very difficult to turn farther. Wait a bit for the compression to leak past the rings and then you can turn if farther.
Another option is to put in an ARP harmonic balancer bolt. It has a much larger head on it that makes it much easier to keep a socket on. I paid about $28 for mine, but well worth it in aggravation avoided.
http://www.arpfasteners.com/kits/ARP...p?RecordID=247
.
If the plugs are still in it you can turn it a little way and then compression will make it very difficult to turn farther. Wait a bit for the compression to leak past the rings and then you can turn if farther.
Another option is to put in an ARP harmonic balancer bolt. It has a much larger head on it that makes it much easier to keep a socket on. I paid about $28 for mine, but well worth it in aggravation avoided.
http://www.arpfasteners.com/kits/ARP...p?RecordID=247
.
Last edited by Cliff Harris; 06-02-2014 at 01:28 AM.
#11
Racer
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Location: Blacksburg Virginia
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So it turns out my flywheel and torque converter were bound up.
I loosened the transmission bell housing and it rotated freely again.
I've got the two bolted together now and tomorrow I will bolt the bell housing to engine back.
Hopefully they will go together smooth.
I loosened the transmission bell housing and it rotated freely again.
I've got the two bolted together now and tomorrow I will bolt the bell housing to engine back.
Hopefully they will go together smooth.
#12
Race Director
So it turns out my flywheel and torque converter were bound up.
I loosened the transmission bell housing and it rotated freely again.
I've got the two bolted together now and tomorrow I will bolt the bell housing to engine back.
Hopefully they will go together smooth.
I loosened the transmission bell housing and it rotated freely again.
I've got the two bolted together now and tomorrow I will bolt the bell housing to engine back.
Hopefully they will go together smooth.