mcm95403

I'm wondering if anyone has tried factory (NOT replica) 17x11 sawblade rears on the front of an 88-96 car along with C5 front brakes and know if they wheels clear the brakes. I know the 9.5 sawblades require spacers to clear the calipers, but it looks like the 17x11's have well over an inch more clearance in that area.


I got my rear 17x11 sawblades yesterday but the tires aren't due for a few more days, so I can't test fit much yet - that's why I'm asking here.

WVZR-1

Now is the time to check the wheels for fit. Much easier to handle. The 36mm offset of the 11" saw-blades would "hint" that you'll be fine for the caliper clearance but the telling tale will be the "try it"! I'd do it now. The 36mm offset is certainly going to put substantially more load on the front hub/bearing I'd think.

mcm95403

Good point on the offset and bearing load. Maybe I'm better off just using the spacers and calling it a day.

WVZR-1

How much clearance are you short? I've never attempted the C5's with early stuff but if it were minimal material I'd be tempted to find a shop that could maybe accommodate the fit with a machine procedure of the wheel. More expensive than spacers for sure but likely very doable.

I believe you're doing the rear change so you're doing some machine work anyway. If someone can do the work for the rear and has a machine that the rims will fit he can certainly handle the wheels. Depending on the amount of material that needs to be removed it might be an interesting change!

mcm95403

I'll have to try them to make sure, but I believe the sawblades need 1/4" spacers to clear the C5 brakes.


The machine work I'll be doing (probably myself) is to achieve the narrowing of the rear end. I'd rather not machine the blades of the wheels for fitment though. Rippie has 1/2" longer wheel studs and makes very nice spacers in 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2". Once I get the NT-05's mounted up on the rear wheels, I'll try one on the front and see how much more clearance there is between the back of the blade and the J55 caliper. If it looks like it will work and not put too much strain on the front bearings, then I may well go that route. If not I can just do the spacers and run 275's in front.

WVZR-1

If the C5 calipers are already there I'd be trying a 9.5 for fit. I had an extra set of painted saw-blades and I never measured but I'd be inclined to believe from recollection that it wouldn't be an impossible task. Does the barrel diameter need to be larger OR does the caliper actually hit the vanes of the wheel causing the interference. There's a good bit of material back there and I doubt anything would be compromised.

I looked at this maybe 9 - 10 years ago when the C5 upgrades first started to become popular. Spacers and studs aren't inexpensive and a direct-fit would certainly be the more desired. There should likely be someone in your area that widens and narrows aluminum wheels and this operation would be a breeze on his equipment.

The 315's on a 36mm wheel in the front is going to be substantially outside the hood edge and I believe will create issues for sure.

mcm95403

I don't have the C5 brakes yet. This is a very busy week, so it will be this weekend at the soonest before I can look.


The Rippie studs and spacers are cheap though - $24.95 for a 10 pack: http://dougrippie.com/products/drm-e...d-wheel-studs/


The spacers are a little pricey at $129, but not when you look at how they're made: http://dougrippie.com/featured/drm-wheel-spacers/

WVZR-1

A 1/4" pass through spacer can't be that special from anyone. I'd certainly try a fit before I did a thing. When you use a 1/4" spacer you'll lose better than half of the hub pilot but with longer studs and proper nuts it certainly shouldn't be an issue.

Here's a painted saw-blade on a C5 caliper that the poster mentions very tight. Open the thread and "Mojave" says NO! It could very easily just be a casting flashing trimming that needs done and could change wheel to wheel. The construction of the painted saw-blade is very unusual on the back-side and that's why I suggested check it. The ones I had I wouldn't have had any issue with an attempt if I really wanted saw-blades and yes I do like the painted saw-blade. The machined finish later one - not so much.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1568498456-post7.html

Until you have brakes there's no issue and no need to be concerned. The cart has gotten ahead of the horse!

mcm95403

I was looking at the Rippie spacers mainly because of the step in the 3/8" and taller pieces.

Cart's not ahead of the horse - I live to plan things out as much as possible to avoid costly surprises. I know I want the C5 brakes, just trying to be ready so that it's a simple bolt-on when the time comes - which hopefully won't be too long.


Thanks for all the info!

ANTI VENOM

It seems to me that if you run the 36mm offset wheels that they will be sticking WAY out. I'd love to see some pics.

WVZR-1

I use 16mm pass-through that I had done in Cali and I've had that fellow do several sets for me, others have also when I pointed them towards him. I did them so I could use the 11" @ 50mm for the rears of my car. The nice thing about his efforts are they're done the way you ask them to be done.

I don't believe you can put the hub-centric step on a .375 pass-through spacer. The hub on the bearing is just a little over 19mm with no rotor on it so add the thickness of the rotor flange and I think you still need at least 16mm (.629) spacer thickness to accommodate the hub-centric feature.

Black89Z51

You don't need a tire in order to check wheel to caliper clearance...

mcm95403

Right. But I need the time to do it which I won't have till the weekend which is when I'll also get the tires.

mcm95403

I was able to pick up the tires today. I mounted them on the front and while there is certainly room for the C5 calipers, the tires were outside the body by a good 1 1/2".


Installed on the rear they extend past the body by 5/8" after I drove it a few blocks to get it to settle. Once I do the Big Doggie, they should be just about flush with the fender.


Gotta say they look very cool being that meaty under there

ANTI VENOM

That was my point.