No start
08-18-2014, 06:42 AM
#1
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No start
I parked my 93 Saturday went to start her Sunday and nothing. Dash lights all come on when i turn key but not even a click. Cleaned key nothing. Tried spare key nothing. Put battery on charge brought her up to 100% it was down at about 55% ? Months ago a similar problem and it was the chip on the key wiped it with a little alcohol and started. Same time i got a spare just in case. I have never had any indication of a starter problem. I pulled battery to charge and checked/cleaned terms, when i hooked her back up the horn started beeping until i used the key fob. Only reason i mention this is because it hasnt happened before when i had battery in and out. VATS ? Any direction would be appreciated. Dave
08-18-2014, 03:19 PM
#3
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So, when you enter the car, with the door open, does the "security" light flash?
When you close the door, does the light stop flashing and go out?
When you insert and turn the key does the security light come on again?
When you close the door, does the light stop flashing and go out?
When you insert and turn the key does the security light come on again?
08-18-2014, 03:36 PM
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One of the most common issues I dealt with at the Cadillac dealership on PassKey was the pigtail to the ignition tumbler (orange sleeve with 2 white wires inside?) that sends the pellet reading to the CCM, or BCM becomes open right near the ignition switch itself.
This is due to the fact that the first arch to the harness exiting the ignition switch basically is flexed between the movement of the ignition barrel and the stationary rest of it's path through the steering column. Basically is flexed back and forth until it dismembers kinda like a pop can if you fold it back and forth enough.
Pain in the but to replace because you have to swap out all the tumblers to install a new barrel/pigtail assembly.
Real limited space in there too.
Scale from 1-10 complexity = 3
This is the most common finding of PassKey failure while I was at GM dealership.
Many posts talk about the (14?) pellet choices, a simple test is to match your key pellet resistance in a combination of resistors from radio shack, unplug this passkey pigtail at base of steering column and insert resistor ( or little resistor pack) and see if it starts. This is intended as a diagnostic only as if it does start, I would change the tumbler pigtail assembly, they last for a long time, and you won't have to do that again for a while.
This is due to the fact that the first arch to the harness exiting the ignition switch basically is flexed between the movement of the ignition barrel and the stationary rest of it's path through the steering column. Basically is flexed back and forth until it dismembers kinda like a pop can if you fold it back and forth enough.
Pain in the but to replace because you have to swap out all the tumblers to install a new barrel/pigtail assembly.
Real limited space in there too.
Scale from 1-10 complexity = 3
This is the most common finding of PassKey failure while I was at GM dealership.
Many posts talk about the (14?) pellet choices, a simple test is to match your key pellet resistance in a combination of resistors from radio shack, unplug this passkey pigtail at base of steering column and insert resistor ( or little resistor pack) and see if it starts. This is intended as a diagnostic only as if it does start, I would change the tumbler pigtail assembly, they last for a long time, and you won't have to do that again for a while.
08-18-2014, 03:51 PM
#7
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St. Jude '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-‘19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
Try resetting the battery cables.
Simply remove, clean and reinstall.
Sounds too simple, but I've seen this work on some before.
Simply remove, clean and reinstall.
Sounds too simple, but I've seen this work on some before.
08-18-2014, 04:36 PM
#10
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. Yes it will flash until I close door then it goes out. Key on it comes on steady
08-18-2014, 04:38 PM
#11
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08-18-2014, 05:37 PM
#12
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One of the most common issues I dealt with at the Cadillac dealership on PassKey was the pigtail to the ignition tumbler (orange sleeve with 2 white wires inside?) that sends the pellet reading to the CCM, or BCM becomes open right near the ignition switch itself.
This is due to the fact that the first arch to the harness exiting the ignition switch basically is flexed between the movement of the ignition barrel and the stationary rest of it's path through the steering column. Basically is flexed back and forth until it dismembers kinda like a pop can if you fold it back and forth enough.
Pain in the but to replace because you have to swap out all the tumblers to install a new barrel/pigtail assembly.
Real limited space in there too.
Scale from 1-10 complexity = 3
This is the most common finding of PassKey failure while I was at GM dealership.
Many posts talk about the (14?) pellet choices, a simple test is to match your key pellet resistance in a combination of resistors from radio shack, unplug this passkey pigtail at base of steering column and insert resistor ( or little resistor pack) and see if it starts. This is intended as a diagnostic only as if it does start, I would change the tumbler pigtail assembly, they last for a long time, and you won't have to do that again for a while.
This is due to the fact that the first arch to the harness exiting the ignition switch basically is flexed between the movement of the ignition barrel and the stationary rest of it's path through the steering column. Basically is flexed back and forth until it dismembers kinda like a pop can if you fold it back and forth enough.
Pain in the but to replace because you have to swap out all the tumblers to install a new barrel/pigtail assembly.
Real limited space in there too.
Scale from 1-10 complexity = 3
This is the most common finding of PassKey failure while I was at GM dealership.
Many posts talk about the (14?) pellet choices, a simple test is to match your key pellet resistance in a combination of resistors from radio shack, unplug this passkey pigtail at base of steering column and insert resistor ( or little resistor pack) and see if it starts. This is intended as a diagnostic only as if it does start, I would change the tumbler pigtail assembly, they last for a long time, and you won't have to do that again for a while.
08-18-2014, 05:40 PM
#13
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08-18-2014, 07:18 PM
#15
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A good Thief will get that started in less than 30 secs after sitting in the drivers seat
See if this helps up by-pass that and start it
http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...rial-pics.html
and on an older system Watch this to get the Idea of jumping/by-passing Vatts
and them ur system
Then drop the driver column cover and find the relay with the large yellow wire and the large purple wire, cut them at the relay and butt connect the two of them together. That takes care of the starter interrupter relay problem! - See more at: http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/....i7PJwS0R.dpuf
See if this helps up by-pass that and start it
http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...rial-pics.html
and on an older system Watch this to get the Idea of jumping/by-passing Vatts
Then drop the driver column cover and find the relay with the large yellow wire and the large purple wire, cut them at the relay and butt connect the two of them together. That takes care of the starter interrupter relay problem! - See more at: http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/....i7PJwS0R.dpuf
08-18-2014, 07:33 PM
#16
Burning Brakes
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Or just measure the resistor on ur key and then get up under the dash and put a resister with that same value in to the wire going to the vats. Tricking the vats into thinking it there thats all there is to it