95 LT1 Coolant High Fill Reservoir Level Check Procedure
11-10-2014, 03:22 PM
#22
Hard to see, but it looks like there may be a crack in the neck of the reservoir.... about 1" to the left of the hole. A common occurrence.... clean/scour the surfaces..... using your finger nail, see if you can feel a break in the neck.
A small crack in the neck would allow air in, and prevent a complete siphon.
I'm almost sure that there isn't any crack in the neck
Cause precedent owner had recently replaced the reservoir tank, also when I remove cap there's pressure I can hear the ''hissss" however just to be sure I will check tomorrow with nail
11-10-2014, 03:28 PM
#23
Safety Car
Read carefully...... coolant level should be up to the BOTTOM of the hole. Yes, any higher, and the coolant will flow out to the overflow bottle. Your coolant level is LOW.
If there is a crack it will be very small..... very hard to see and feel. There could be a crack in the opposite side, also. Check carefully.
11-10-2014, 03:36 PM
#24
Read carefully...... coolant level should be up to the BOTTOM of the hole. Yes, any higher, and the coolant will flow out to the overflow bottle. Your coolant level is LOW.
If there is a crack it will be very small..... very hard to see and feel. There could be a crack in the opposite side, also. Check carefully.
If there is a crack it will be very small..... very hard to see and feel. There could be a crack in the opposite side, also. Check carefully.
That's okay "be up" not "over"
11-13-2014, 04:30 AM
#25
Read carefully...... coolant level should be up to the BOTTOM of the hole. Yes, any higher, and the coolant will flow out to the overflow bottle. Your coolant level is LOW.
If there is a crack it will be very small..... very hard to see and feel. There could be a crack in the opposite side, also. Check carefully.
If there is a crack it will be very small..... very hard to see and feel. There could be a crack in the opposite side, also. Check carefully.
Well there was something like a fracture both inner and outer edge of the neck
However I've checked for leaks with coolant temp over 212 F
And seems not leaks from there....
Maybe the stock junction of the neck metal sheet?
If not I would resolve it....
Replace tank or remedy for a while with sealant?
11-13-2014, 09:21 AM
#26
Safety Car
The cracks in the reservoir neck will only get larger. You need to repair the cracks by brazing, or replace the reservoir (about $45).
I'm not sure a brazed crack will survive the expansion/contraction
in the neck, and the torque required to remove the rad cap. A replacement reservoir is suggested.
Coolant will not appear as a leak through the cracks, as it will flow to the overflow bottle as it expands, and pressure builds. During the siphon process (coolant returning to the reservoir from the overflow bottle during cool-down) air is entering the coolant system through the cracks, and preventing a complete transfer of coolant to the reservoir. That is why the coolant is low (assuming there is sufficient coolant in the overflow bottle to complete the siphon).
Also, it is recommended that you inspect the gasket in the rad cap for any distortion or tears, and replace the gasket, if necessary.
I'm not sure a brazed crack will survive the expansion/contraction
in the neck, and the torque required to remove the rad cap. A replacement reservoir is suggested.
Coolant will not appear as a leak through the cracks, as it will flow to the overflow bottle as it expands, and pressure builds. During the siphon process (coolant returning to the reservoir from the overflow bottle during cool-down) air is entering the coolant system through the cracks, and preventing a complete transfer of coolant to the reservoir. That is why the coolant is low (assuming there is sufficient coolant in the overflow bottle to complete the siphon).
Also, it is recommended that you inspect the gasket in the rad cap for any distortion or tears, and replace the gasket, if necessary.
11-13-2014, 10:02 AM
#27
The cracks in the reservoir neck will only get larger. You need to repair the cracks by brazing, or replace the reservoir (about $45).
I'm not sure a brazed crack will survive the expansion/contraction
in the neck, and the torque required to remove the rad cap. A replacement reservoir is suggested.
Coolant will not appear as a leak through the cracks, as it will flow to the overflow bottle as it expands, and pressure builds. During the siphon process (coolant returning to the reservoir from the overflow bottle during cool-down) air is entering the coolant system through the cracks, and preventing a complete transfer of coolant to the reservoir. That is why the coolant is low (assuming there is sufficient coolant in the overflow bottle to complete the siphon).
Also, it is recommended that you inspect the gasket in the rad cap for any distortion or tears, and replace the gasket, if necessary.
I'm not sure a brazed crack will survive the expansion/contraction
in the neck, and the torque required to remove the rad cap. A replacement reservoir is suggested.
Coolant will not appear as a leak through the cracks, as it will flow to the overflow bottle as it expands, and pressure builds. During the siphon process (coolant returning to the reservoir from the overflow bottle during cool-down) air is entering the coolant system through the cracks, and preventing a complete transfer of coolant to the reservoir. That is why the coolant is low (assuming there is sufficient coolant in the overflow bottle to complete the siphon).
Also, it is recommended that you inspect the gasket in the rad cap for any distortion or tears, and replace the gasket, if necessary.
I think that I will replace it and cap too... Surely is the best thing to do....
Just would you tip me where to find tank for about 45$
I only find prices that start from 77$ corvette central , corvette america, and more expensive from ecklers too
11-13-2014, 01:43 PM
#31
Safety Car
fractures allow air in negating a complete siphon. New rad caps
are more 'user friendly' allowing for easier on/off of the cap.
FYI.... most rad caps are made by STANT, and packaged in boxes
with many different labels, including ACDelco.
11-13-2014, 03:29 PM
#32
Now if i click on link it redirect me on coolant recovery tank...not the right one?
You too?
Shouldn't be the high fill reservoir or expansione tank?
However part n# is correct
Last edited by Christi@n; 11-13-2014 at 03:43 PM.
11-13-2014, 03:46 PM
#33
Safety Car
[QUOTE=Christi@n;1588256255]......Should be high fill reservoir[....../QUOTE]
No: .....tank..... coolant recovery tank.....surge tank
ACDELCO part# 10157994
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...parttype,10457
Note: tank comes with 'low coolant' sensor installed.
No: .....tank..... coolant recovery tank.....surge tank
ACDELCO part# 10157994
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...parttype,10457
Note: tank comes with 'low coolant' sensor installed.
Last edited by don hall; 11-13-2014 at 03:50 PM.
11-21-2014, 05:42 AM
#35
Take it from rockauto...
Will be delivered next week think
Should open a new thread for right procedure To replace it?
Thought for
drain coolant from tank, remove all clamp and hose retaining srews, place the new one re-attach hose and add coolant to do the level opening bleed srew?
Will be delivered next week think
Should open a new thread for right procedure To replace it?
Thought for
drain coolant from tank, remove all clamp and hose retaining srews, place the new one re-attach hose and add coolant to do the level opening bleed srew?
11-21-2014, 10:57 AM
#36
Safety Car
Yes...... simple replacement..... remove hose to drain. Remember, there is an external sensor on the bottom of tank..... take care not to damage wiring.
After replacement, fill tank...... no need to bleed.... just drive your
vette, check coolant level after cool-down, and add coolant, if necessary. Make sure there is sufficient coolant in overflow bottle.
After replacement, fill tank...... no need to bleed.... just drive your
vette, check coolant level after cool-down, and add coolant, if necessary. Make sure there is sufficient coolant in overflow bottle.
11-21-2014, 11:48 AM
#37
Yes...... simple replacement..... remove hose to drain. Remember, there is an external sensor on the bottom of tank..... take care not to damage wiring.
After replacement, fill tank...... no need to bleed.... just drive your
vette, check coolant level after cool-down, and add coolant, if necessary. Make sure there is sufficient coolant in overflow bottle.
After replacement, fill tank...... no need to bleed.... just drive your
vette, check coolant level after cool-down, and add coolant, if necessary. Make sure there is sufficient coolant in overflow bottle.
Already heard no need to bleed cause lt1 coolant system is self purging
but my owner manual says:
"when add coolant at high fill reservoir open bleed valve on water pump
Failure in this operation can damage Your engine" think to avoid air pockets to go in
Just to be sure
Last edited by Christi@n; 11-21-2014 at 11:52 AM.
12-07-2014, 09:58 AM
#39
Yes...... simple replacement..... remove hose to drain. Remember, there is an external sensor on the bottom of tank..... take care not to damage wiring.
After replacement, fill tank...... no need to bleed.... just drive your
vette, check coolant level after cool-down, and add coolant, if necessary. Make sure there is sufficient coolant in overflow bottle.
After replacement, fill tank...... no need to bleed.... just drive your
vette, check coolant level after cool-down, and add coolant, if necessary. Make sure there is sufficient coolant in overflow bottle.
Replaced surge tank, fill it to the top, but I've noticed that coolant temp tends to stay low when I got cruise speed, 1200 rpm... Coolant temp is about 140~150 F, would assume that T stat is broken, always opened, also hose from block to rad and from rad to block are very soft until when coolant is 212 F,
Think that coolant temp shouldn't be lower tha 180 F or 160 f using other type of t stat
Last edited by Christi@n; 12-07-2014 at 10:01 AM.
12-07-2014, 12:14 PM
#40
Safety Car
"1200 rpm... Coolant temp is about 140~150 F ......"
Replace the digital temp sensor located on water pump.
"Think that coolant temp shouldn't be lower tha 180 F or 160 f using other type of t stat"
T-stat 180/160 is the temp at which the valve opens.... it does not
control operating temp. A 'stuck open' t-stat will not lower the operating temp. The engine will just take longer to reach op temp.
Replace the digital temp sensor located on water pump.
"Think that coolant temp shouldn't be lower tha 180 F or 160 f using other type of t stat"
T-stat 180/160 is the temp at which the valve opens.... it does not
control operating temp. A 'stuck open' t-stat will not lower the operating temp. The engine will just take longer to reach op temp.