What Causes High Pressure in Crankcase?
#21
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Mar 2013
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Really TOM400CFI, Really. Why am I being Irresponsible??
You said-
Quote:
Originally Posted by cudamax View Post
Without a pcv on an engine or if its plugged You loose ring seal and horsepower.
TOM400CFI Replied-- No. There is still a crank case vent and that is sufficient to allow gases to escape on any reasonably sealed engine. No meaningful HP loss will occur from a plugged PCV valve. In fact, most racing applications don't have a PCV valve at all.
So you have your PCV Valve plugged and by-passed and are not running one on your engine because its not needed?? Because thats what you seem to be saying by overcorrecting my writings and you are Implying that here. That everyone doesn't need their's and that all the Auto engines and Auto Manufacturers really are wrong and can learn from you, that no one really needs a PCV valve and the Crankcase vent is good enough.
You are saying that I'm Irresponsible because of my Arm-Chair Diagnosis of the op's engine as being "Done" and should be rebuilt and or replaced because his motor is pushing oil while running out the dipstick tube and most likely pushing the dipstick itself up and pushing oil out the rocker arm oil filler cap and most likely will be blowing every seal on the engine and will be leaking from everywhere from Piston Combustion Ring Blow-by.
So according to you, whats right is wrong and whats wrong is right.
You know. This reminds me of a Crazy Ex-girlfriend I once had. Man she was Annoying and Funny at the same time and always Hormonal. My God What a Drama Queen She was.
You said-
Quote:
Originally Posted by cudamax View Post
Without a pcv on an engine or if its plugged You loose ring seal and horsepower.
TOM400CFI Replied-- No. There is still a crank case vent and that is sufficient to allow gases to escape on any reasonably sealed engine. No meaningful HP loss will occur from a plugged PCV valve. In fact, most racing applications don't have a PCV valve at all.
So you have your PCV Valve plugged and by-passed and are not running one on your engine because its not needed?? Because thats what you seem to be saying by overcorrecting my writings and you are Implying that here. That everyone doesn't need their's and that all the Auto engines and Auto Manufacturers really are wrong and can learn from you, that no one really needs a PCV valve and the Crankcase vent is good enough.
You are saying that I'm Irresponsible because of my Arm-Chair Diagnosis of the op's engine as being "Done" and should be rebuilt and or replaced because his motor is pushing oil while running out the dipstick tube and most likely pushing the dipstick itself up and pushing oil out the rocker arm oil filler cap and most likely will be blowing every seal on the engine and will be leaking from everywhere from Piston Combustion Ring Blow-by.
So according to you, whats right is wrong and whats wrong is right.
You know. This reminds me of a Crazy Ex-girlfriend I once had. Man she was Annoying and Funny at the same time and always Hormonal. My God What a Drama Queen She was.
#22
Race Director
CUDAMAX...you are CORRECT....in my opinion on what you wrote so far.
It is simple as this...as stated before....of you have verified that the PVC is sucking like crazy as designed....and you remove the tube int eh valve cover WITH the PCV in the valve cover on the other side...if you feel or see air/smoke coming out of the grommet in your valve cover...YOUR ENGINE IS SHOT.....Simple as that.
And CUDAMAX was using the air cleaners on engines with a carburetor ...where oil can collect up in them when there is a blow-by issue that is severe.
All I will write is this....if the PCV is sucking very strong...and I can feel air coming OUT of the fresh air tube grommet....it is POINTLESS for me to do anything else or any other test....because if the PCV can NOT keep up with the compression blow-by....then the rings are shot. Then in many cases..(pre-1984) I can stop the engine... and by pulling on the alternator belt..can spin the engine with NO effort...thus NO ring drag...thus worn out engine. I have had engines that when the breathers were taken out of the valve covers...it literally blew smoke rings out of the valve cover grommets that were blueish /white smoke.
MY vote it the rings are shot...and that is that...in my opinion....due to the information currently provided.
DUB
It is simple as this...as stated before....of you have verified that the PVC is sucking like crazy as designed....and you remove the tube int eh valve cover WITH the PCV in the valve cover on the other side...if you feel or see air/smoke coming out of the grommet in your valve cover...YOUR ENGINE IS SHOT.....Simple as that.
And CUDAMAX was using the air cleaners on engines with a carburetor ...where oil can collect up in them when there is a blow-by issue that is severe.
All I will write is this....if the PCV is sucking very strong...and I can feel air coming OUT of the fresh air tube grommet....it is POINTLESS for me to do anything else or any other test....because if the PCV can NOT keep up with the compression blow-by....then the rings are shot. Then in many cases..(pre-1984) I can stop the engine... and by pulling on the alternator belt..can spin the engine with NO effort...thus NO ring drag...thus worn out engine. I have had engines that when the breathers were taken out of the valve covers...it literally blew smoke rings out of the valve cover grommets that were blueish /white smoke.
MY vote it the rings are shot...and that is that...in my opinion....due to the information currently provided.
DUB
#24
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
Soes the OP know if his PCV is "sucking hard"??
Does he know his leak down? No. He doesn't. THat's why its irresponsible "advice".
Does he know his leak down? No. He doesn't. THat's why its irresponsible "advice".
#25
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Mar 2013
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My Arm Chair Diagnosis is by no means Irresponsible. He spoke of someone Ruining his engine. So I assumed that this was not going on for him in the past and had not happened slowly and over time. That would Indicate to me just a high milage worn motor
but by the op stating Detonation & overheating I suspect broken piston lan grooves and or piston rings and damaged and or wiped out cyl bores.
I'm sick and tired of defending myself and my writings and responses from what seems to be "My Weirdo Stalker" TOM400CFI whom is relentlessly personally attacking me and continues to contradict a lot of what I say.
I enjoy helping others with fixing their cars with advise from my life long obsession of building and repairing cars through my over 40yrs experience as a master mechanic.
I will not sit back Idle while someone wants to go on and on with me jumping from thread to thread and starting crap and stating that I have any Irresponsible or Malicious intent in my responses to mislead anyone in anyway.
but by the op stating Detonation & overheating I suspect broken piston lan grooves and or piston rings and damaged and or wiped out cyl bores.
I'm sick and tired of defending myself and my writings and responses from what seems to be "My Weirdo Stalker" TOM400CFI whom is relentlessly personally attacking me and continues to contradict a lot of what I say.
I enjoy helping others with fixing their cars with advise from my life long obsession of building and repairing cars through my over 40yrs experience as a master mechanic.
I will not sit back Idle while someone wants to go on and on with me jumping from thread to thread and starting crap and stating that I have any Irresponsible or Malicious intent in my responses to mislead anyone in anyway.
#26
Racer
Thread Starter
Well finally making headway. Dealer agrees the oil blow by must be a piston/cylinder problem not the exhaust valve. We worked out a solution can cost me a few $$ if this is not the problem after engine tear down at his expense. This is good, more to follow.
#27
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
And therein is the root cause or your irresponsible advice-giving. We have figured it out. You made an assumption, advised a new motor w/out even confirming the hypothesis the OP's mechanic, came up with. A motor is a lot of money, to not even check and confirm the root cause of the problem.
I asked in another thread, I'll try again here:
QUOTE WHERE I MADE A PERSONAL ATTACK. Did you not compare ME, to a "crazy x GF" above? A "drama queen"? QUOTE ME, where I ever said anything remotely that personal or attacking toward you. Who is making personal attacks here?In the other thread, it was YOU, who attacked ME, for stating fact, that you didn't happen to LIKE. You should educate yourself as to what a "personal attack" actually is, then you can stop doing it. *I* am sick of YOU attacking me for stating a fact, and correcting misinformation, or bogus claims. I left the last bogus claim in the other thread alone, just so as not to hurt your feelings...even though it was wrong, as wrong can be.
Great, so do I. I base my advice on fact, and PROVING parts to work or not work, however...not just WAG'ing and spending other peoples money on "arm chair assumptions".
At least the OP seems to have a solution worked out for himself.
QUOTE WHERE I MADE A PERSONAL ATTACK. Did you not compare ME, to a "crazy x GF" above? A "drama queen"? QUOTE ME, where I ever said anything remotely that personal or attacking toward you. Who is making personal attacks here?In the other thread, it was YOU, who attacked ME, for stating fact, that you didn't happen to LIKE. You should educate yourself as to what a "personal attack" actually is, then you can stop doing it. *I* am sick of YOU attacking me for stating a fact, and correcting misinformation, or bogus claims. I left the last bogus claim in the other thread alone, just so as not to hurt your feelings...even though it was wrong, as wrong can be.
At least the OP seems to have a solution worked out for himself.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; 09-16-2014 at 11:25 PM.
#30
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Mar 2013
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It's in the Chevy Manual. Whenever while the motor is running and the engine oil dip stick pushes up on its own and oil starts to leak out of the dip stick tube.
1. Don't listen to anyone call Tommy
2. #1. above is a cry baby.
3. Replace Engine Block/Pistons & Rings.
4. Make whomever did this to the engine & Tommy Pay for it.
5. Thank Cudamax for being right all the Time.
1. Don't listen to anyone call Tommy
2. #1. above is a cry baby.
3. Replace Engine Block/Pistons & Rings.
4. Make whomever did this to the engine & Tommy Pay for it.
5. Thank Cudamax for being right all the Time.
#31
It's in the Chevy Manual. Whenever while the motor is running and the engine oil dip stick pushes up on its own and oil starts to leak out of the dip stick tube.
1. Don't listen to anyone call Tommy
2. #1. above is a cry baby.
3. Replace Engine Block/Pistons & Rings.
4. Make whomever did this to the engine & Tommy Pay for it.
5. Thank Cudamax for being right all the Time.
1. Don't listen to anyone call Tommy
2. #1. above is a cry baby.
3. Replace Engine Block/Pistons & Rings.
4. Make whomever did this to the engine & Tommy Pay for it.
5. Thank Cudamax for being right all the Time.
#33
#34
Instructor
Vanessa??? :) Welcome to Corvette Forum!
Cool. Hi Vanessa! Welcome to CF. You could have some real fun with Cudamax's account before you log out.
You could:
1. change his Avatar (I suggest a demure picture of yourself, G Rated please (OK, PG then)),
2. Post something in all of the open topics like "I am so sorry for being WRONG all the time"
3. Post "Tom is right -- AGAIN" in all the open topics
4. THEN, go back and post "Oops, I thought I was wrong but I made a mistake and I really am right" in all the open topics.
Then, when Cudamax logs in again in a few days, he will see a whole bunch of very confused posts about is he right or is he wrong....
Of course, you would have to be watching to get the full effect as he scrolls through the barrage of PMs and replies that will be waiting for him.
Could be rather amusing.....
Frankly, I don't know enough about engines to contribute anything complicated, but I am a trouble maker myself. I can do that pretty well.
Cheers,
M
You could:
1. change his Avatar (I suggest a demure picture of yourself, G Rated please (OK, PG then)),
2. Post something in all of the open topics like "I am so sorry for being WRONG all the time"
3. Post "Tom is right -- AGAIN" in all the open topics
4. THEN, go back and post "Oops, I thought I was wrong but I made a mistake and I really am right" in all the open topics.
Then, when Cudamax logs in again in a few days, he will see a whole bunch of very confused posts about is he right or is he wrong....
Of course, you would have to be watching to get the full effect as he scrolls through the barrage of PMs and replies that will be waiting for him.
Could be rather amusing.....
Frankly, I don't know enough about engines to contribute anything complicated, but I am a trouble maker myself. I can do that pretty well.
Cheers,
M
#37
My 1990 L98 (101K miles) is now running fine but my trusted Corvette mechanic reports that my oil leaks are really "oil blow by" coming out of the oil dipstick tube and rocker arm cover oil filler cap. The oil is burning on the exhaust manifold. Mechanic reports that because of the recent overheating and severe denotation, a ring land or ring broke and/or a piston is burnt - both allowing the combustion chamber pressure to be released into the crankcase. The dealership that worked on the Vette originally (and whom is responsible for the overheating and denotation) says it a value not properly seating and now wants me to pay for a valve job. I have a hard time believing and my trusted mechanic says it is not the cause that a leaky value will cause this much pressure and blowby - especially for the oil coming out of the dipstick tube.
Advice please. thanks,
Tom
Advice please. thanks,
Tom
On the valve issue I will also tell you I just had a broken VS. When I pulled my plenum I immediately knew something was wrong. It was gas soaked and "cruddy" looking. I have nothing but air going in mine and fuel down the runners so it usually is prefectly clean. Not the case this time.
Upon investigating I had two intake valves broken which were allowing pressures to be pushed back into the intake. This could in the right situation make its way back through breather lines and into the crank. If that path exists.
Now I think you have bad rings and your in need of an overhaul. Welcome to the game and once the PITA part of paying the bills and getting it back together - you will be much happier with the new found power. Might as well stroke it while your in there.