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Hi, Longtime away from this forum. Im happy t be there again
Currently I have a 396 SB Chevy roller engine in my 90
It runs perfectly.
With all the mods on my car (an auto 1990 convertible) ...350-383-396 ....
...I progressively reached best ET's.
Now I'm stuck on middle 11 .
Not good to race in a category (11.000 secs index) and too fast to run in the 12.000 index category.
(I hate to lift the gas pedal...)
SO my next step is to reach very low 11 secs wile mantaining the car to be a daily driver.
Now I have 396 roller sbc , 195 AFR competition heads
custom grind (hydraulic) CompCams (230-236 .570 lift @1.6 roller rocker ratio)
Single plane manifold (fuel injected)
700R4
3200 Vigilante converter
Full direct Exhaust (QTP electric cutOut)
dana 40 3.45
28" drag tires
my best are : 1.560 60ft
7,299 1/8
11.526 1/4
118 mph
I was thinking on:
220 AFR Competition heads
a "one step more " cam (still Hydraulic)
skinny tires on front (now Im with full 275/45 17 street radial tires)
Battery relocation on back
removing front passenger seat
removing about 10-15 lbs on miscellanoueus things
Do you think is enough?
Is it a good move to stay with an Hydraulic cam ? Or there is a necessary step to a solid one?
Basically I like how the car run up to 1/8, then it seem it needs more HP to handle the taller third gear when I shift from 2nd to 3rd.
Id go solid roller spin it up higher little more gear/converter but thats not everyones cup of tea. Faster you get harder it is to drop a tenth as you probably knowgets pricy
You can do that easily with a cam change and new cyl heads.
This is the 385 LT4 I built for 93 ragtop.
11.18@125MPH first time at the track... and there is plenty more as these were just shake down passes and his converter was way tighter than it was susposed (only flashing like 2600RPM) to be and seriously hurting the 60ft....
I posted links to the engine build thread and dyno results thread in the first post.
You are down on MPH and ET but have a slightly better a 60ft compared to his track times - So plain and simple - You're short on HP.
The big differences I see between the engines the intake manifold, camshaft and cyl heads.
Which Single Plane Intake do you have? I would most likely keep your Single Plane Intake. The good ones have more HP potential than an LTX intake ever will.
I know your Competition Cam seems similar to the Jones Cam that I had custom ground for 93 ragtops engine but trust me - It's not.
I used AFR 210 heads. Your 195's are fine for TQ type street car but kind of small on a bigger engine if you want to seriously drag race it. I would recomend AFR 210's with the converter and gears you have.
As Ron alluded to in his post above - more gear and converter - for a bigger cam and heads. You have to match the powerband of the engine with the drive train...
This is why my combination runs so much better for what seems to be a very similar build.
Will
Last edited by rklessdriver; 09-17-2014 at 11:10 AM.
You can do that easily with a cam change and new cyl heads.
This is the 385 LT4 I built for 93 ragtop.
11.18@125MPH first time at the track... and there is plenty more as these were just shake down passes and his converter was way tighter than it was susposed (only flashing like 2600RPM) to be and seriously hurting the 60ft....
I posted links to the engine build thread and dyno results thread in the first post.
You are down on MPH and ET but have a slightly better a 60ft compared to his track times - So plain and simple - You're short on HP.
The big differences I see between the engines the intake manifold, camshaft and cyl heads.
Which Single Plane Intake do you have? I would most likely keep your Single Plane Intake. The good ones have more HP potential than an LTX intake ever will.
I know your Competition Cam seems similar to the Jones Cam that I had custom ground for 93 ragtops engine but trust me - It's not.
I used AFR 210 heads. Your 195's are fine for TQ type street car but kind of small on a bigger engine if you want to seriously drag race it. I would recomend AFR 210's with the converter and gears you have.
As Ron alluded to in his post above - more gear and converter - for a bigger cam and heads. You have to match the powerband of the engine with the drive train...
This is why my combination runs so much better for what seems to be a very similar build.
Will
Thanks. Really interesting engine. It's almost a surprise to see the amount of torque and HP you extracted from a 385 (basically a 383)
Mine is similar but quite diffeent it's a 3.875 stroke x 4.030....so longer stroke.
Looking at specs I see that cam is Hydraulic.
I can't find the max rpm this engine is used during shifts.
I was thinking to solid because of shifting at higer rpm.
I see ther is 220 AFR heads that are basically the same as 210.
Thanks. Really interesting engine. It's almost a surprise to see the amount of torque and HP you extracted from a 385 (basically a 383)
Mine is similar but quite diffeent it's a 3.875 stroke x 4.030....so longer stroke.
Looking at specs I see that cam is Hydraulic.
I can't find the max rpm this engine is used during shifts.
I was thinking to solid because of shifting at higer rpm.
I see ther is 220 AFR heads that are basically the same as 210.
for this reason I was thinking to 220.
There are many little details/tricks in that engine that were perfect when I built it. It makes good power but that is as it should IMO.
He turns this engine about 6200-6500 RPM... but honestly it ran the best ET letting the tranny shift it self at 5700RPM.... he's done much better than those 1/8th mile times by letting it shift 1-2 auto and manually shifting 3rd at 6500RPM. I think it's been a best 7.09@97MPH...
He just hasn't had time to go to the 1/4 mile track again... had some drivetrain set backs as it broke some U-Joints and after he fixed that the tranny lost 3rd gear just before he put the car in the paint shop and it's been there for the last month or so....
Yes the cam is a Hyd roller. It will turn more but these cam lobes are very aggressive - espc with a 1.65 rocker ratio. Because of the off the shelf springs, stud mount rockers and 5/16 pushrods, it runs out of valve train stability over about 6,7000 or so. I spec'd the cam to have a good powerband from 2500-6500 and have rock solid reliability and good driveability so that his wife could drive it with confidence anywhere. There was no need for a mech roller to do that as the powerband matches what the cyl heads are best capable of on an engine this size.
The AFR 220 uses a bigger Intake valve than the AFR 210 (2.100 vs 2.08) and it's really designed for use on a 4.125" or larger bore... not to say that it won't work on a 4.030-4.060 bore (because I have run a 2.100 valve many times in them) but in this case I don't think that the AFR 220 would offer anything over the AFR 210.
IMO on a small bore SBC under 600HP the AFR 210 is going to be the best choice.
Also if you notice I used the AFR 210 "Street Port" on 93 ragtops engine.... this was due to his budget. There is a little bit more power to be had on a similar build with the better 210 "Comp Port".
There is also a little power to be had by putting it on kill with the compression ratio. I was very conserative at 11.25. Putting it up to 11.5 or 11.6 would gain some power (at the expense of driveability).
Last but not least is the oil pan.... Due to his budget I re-used a stock C4 Corvette oil pan that I spent about 2hrs fitting a Moroso windage tray to.... A custom oil pan with a full length kick out at the pan rail and integrated trays (like I run on my 84 drag car) would be worth 20-30 HP.
Will
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
Originally Posted by conv90
I was thinking on:
220 AFR Competition heads
a "one step more " cam (still Hydraulic)
skinny tires on front (now Im with full 275/45 17 street radial tires)
Battery relocation on back
removing front passenger seat
removing about 10-15 lbs on miscellanoueus things
Do you think is enough?
Is it a good move to stay with an Hydraulic cam ? Or there is a necessary step to a solid one?
Basically I like how the car run up to 1/8, then it seem it needs more HP to handle the taller third gear when I shift from 2nd to 3rd.
I'm no drag-racing expert, but there are a couple of thoughts that pop into my head before considering competition 195's won't take you to your goal.
What is your cam orientation? Have you tried other cam orientations?
Are you really wanting my mid-range torque to handle the lower-end of 3rd gear -- as you wind it back up? This could determine whether advancing/retarding might improve your times.
Have you considered 1.65 rockers...at least on the intake?
Have you considered more aggressive ramps on the cam -- to provide more/similar air -- while keeping/raising compression?
What is your compression?
Could a different intake help?
What headers are you running?
How about 3:73 or 3:93 gears -- with the correct cam (re?)orientation?
Stick with "RKLESSDRIVER" or contact Karl Ellwein who is located in Southern Maryland. Both of those guys can do exactly what is needed to make your LT-1 / LT-4 fly.
My car is a L98. A 638 Block 4 bolt.
Basically I was thinking to some inexpensive mods to reach the goal.
BUT I perfectly know that I need Horsepowers, because my bottleneck is the 3rd gear on 2nd part of track.
SO I was thinking on different cam , because my Engine was built with street in MIND, and also able to run good at the track
I'm in Italy and the Engine was built by PeteK in a perfect manner.
for this purpose.
Then I was thinking to AFR bigger heads.
In my future I know I want a 4.125 bore engine BUT now I can't afford it.
For this reason I was thinking to AFR 220 , so if a future a 427 will be in my car, these can be a good set of heads to be a streattable car but able to be in high 10 seconds.
The engine I have now runs too good now to be replaced. It not eat a drop of oil and it's really streattable.
I have to find the card of comp cam of my cam.
I rememeber only that is a 230-236 custom grid.
I really don't know How aggressively it ramps.
If I find the card I'd like a good comparison with the one used on 93ragtop car.
The cam is installed "straight" so I think that the chain has stretched a bit and not it's a bit "retarded".
(I think ,BTW, that there is built in a 4 deg advance....)
rockers are 1.60 and I was not considering to upgrade it (but it's an option ).
COmpression is about 11.5 (Heads are 65 cc combustion chambers )
I'm using 1-3/4 Super competition Headers thru Flowmaster mufflers, but at the track I use electric cut-out positioned just before the mufflers.
I considered 3.73 gear, but the 3.45 I have IS fantastic off the line with 28 drag tire.
The oil Pan is a Canton with the Windage try supplied with.
112 LSA
.920 base circe
billet cam
pressed on rear dist gear(iron) for stock dist gear compatibility
I think that 210 AFR heads or 220 shines on High lift numbers even over .600 lift.
I really don't know what to do ...which direction to follow.
I even tought to a 100HP NOS to use in 3rd gear only and at the track only , but I don't like the idea of NOS installed.
About the SIngle plane:
it's a Edelbrock baseplate for carb, drilled for injectors with on top a Linghelfeter scoop on which is attached an Arzona Speed and marine TB
Maybe this intake is not the best ....or at least I have not a solid comparison with a LT1/4 /miniram comparison
here the single plane (bough from a CF member in 2008):
Looks like a 2975 Victor JR converted to EFI with the cast alum Accel 90* TB adapter.
The intake is a good peice. It's better than the LTX style intakes. The longer runner length makes for a better power curve.
That cast alum Accel TB adapter could be improved by replacing it with a fabricated sheetmetal one... additionally you could have the fabricated TB adapter set up for the much better LSX style TB's....
Looks like a 2975 Victor JR converted to EFI with the cast alum Accel 90* TB adapter.
The intake is a good peice. It's better than the LTX style intakes. The longer runner length makes for a better power curve.
That cast alum Accel TB adapter could be improved by replacing it with a fabricated sheetmetal one... additionally you could have the fabricated TB adapter set up for the much better LSX style TB's....
Have you talked with Pete K about your intent to step the engine up?
Will
Yes it's a Victor Jr. Thanks for the link.
I have 1.6 ratio rockers 7/16 studs and I'ma bit reluctant on going 1.65-1.7 .
With bigger ratio, the valve float can happens earlier?
It's realy difficult to contact Pete in the last 2 years....
I searched him to build a 383 for a friend and I have difficult to reach him.
He sometimes appears on corvetteguru...
Maybe I can ask to you for a 383?
More air in, more out is the key.
Hanging the valve open a little farther little longer etc
Is the intake box stock meaning no work done to it?Heads?
edit just saw its a Vic jr not the super vic. That thing would really benefit from some internal work being done to it.
Thing is if you go with a larger head and stout cam if youre not willing to regear/converteretc may want to spend time if you havent optimizing the cars suspension weight stuff like that first.
I think your answer is in your Chassis. Your Haul-in Arss for 354's and making around 525 hp or so and guessing around 3200 lbs.
You need more Gear 3.91 min 4.10's or 4.30's will get-ya there. But those will make your car feel like your in the snow so it will need more of a tire to hook. Then crap will start breaking.
Good luck and strip as much pounds as you can then put the skinnys up front with the shocks drained and sway bar links off with a trip to an alignment shop to make sure every single inch at a time with the front end being raised until it goes off the ground that you have Zero toe-change. Real important for staying in your lane
Check out these formulas Try Geoffreys I like that one. Down towards the middle of the page. Do your Homework and think about a tune if and after a gear change
I think your Closer than you think. I think if you start pulling 125 mph traps Your there. Check out the C5 Speed Fast lane list and look at what they are trap-in
09-17-2014, 10:13 AM
Help me to run low 11 secs
