five7kid

The window has never had a problem going down, but occasionally won't do anything when I ask it to go up. I thought it might be a switch issue, because it would often happen when I ran both windows up together. It would usually go up when only that switch was operated, but would sometimes be glitchy.

I rolled the window down yesterday morning going into work, and it hasn't gone up since. Good thing the weather is relatively nice right now, and the car can sleep in the garage at night.

But, I'm thinking an operating window would be a good thing - especially since I plan on racing it on the 26th (and you have to roll the window up when you run, unless you have a window net - which I don't).

I'm guessing it's the window motor. Kind of hoping so, actually, as the motor is easier to find than the switch.

I won't be able to get to it until next Monday evening. May have time to study the FSM before I start the job (but not likely - probably an OJT thing).

Also hope to get the door panel mounted more securely while I'm in there.

bogus

try slamming the door... if that works, the motor is dying.

five7kid

Well, that's kinda what I've done a few times to get it to work. I tried that today, though, and it didn't work.

When I pop the panel, I'll check the wiring and for voltage before I jump into replacing the motor.

Churchkey

Engine running, hold the window button in the up position & slam the door.

or

Engine running, hold the up button as you give the inner door panel a solid rap with a dead blow or rubber mallet 6" up, 12" from the rear edge of door.

five7kid

I'll try that before I take stuff apart. I wasn't holding the switch up when I slammed the door.

Although it would really be nice to have that panel attached more securely, anyway...

ANTI VENOM

I would be checking the switch. If it always goes down, but up is intermittant, then I don't believe it is the motor. If the brushes were hanging up in the motor, it wouldn't go either direction. Once you get the door panel off, if you verify the switch is bad, then you can make a jumper to temporarily roll up the window.
Good luck!

five7kid

That thought had crossed my mind. Also a reason to check the wiring.

It would be a bit of a pain to have to leave the window up at the track, retrieving time slips, etc., but that's better than having the window stuck down.

five7kid

I didn't drive the car today because there was rain in the forecast, and that didn't seem like a good idea driving a car with a window that won't close. And, sure enough, it did rain today.

Finally had a chance to look at it again tonight. Tried the engine-running-switch-up-slam-door technique, no-joy. Twice.

I shut the engine off, and toggled the switch from up to down to up several times, and noticed the lights dimmed slightly when engaged either up or down; listening carefully, I could also hear mechanical sounds inside the door - hmmm, at least I know it's getting power.

The FSM was very clear about window motor replacement - yeah, right. Window motor, Step 1: Remove window, see this section. Window removal, Step 1: Remove door panel, see this section. Etc., etc., etc. I ended up using the FSM as a basic guideline and felt my way around from there.

Oh, yeah, loved this part about window removal: "Adjust window to get access to the window mount nuts." Riiiiigggghhhttttttt.....

I did manage to get the window most of the way out, but the nut was turning on the front rod guide. I had the window kind of propped back end out of the door while I tried to figure that out, reached down to pick up a tool off the floor, and it was Mr. Forehead meet Mr. Window Edge Time.

Okay, concentrated then on getting that rod guide off (the flat nut was spinning on the back side) and got the window out. The regulator was relatively easy from there.

I noticed that the bottom stop bumper wasn't in place, and that there was a pile of jute at the front part of the door. Seemed to me the reg had just over-traveled (evidenced by the look of the mechanism - sorry, didn't think to take a picture of that). I pried and played with it, trying power on it, and finally with the right persuasion coupled with "up" power, it freed up and started working again. Whew! Good thing, because by this time the parts stores had already closed.

So, put it all back together, put the bottom stop bumper back in place, spread out the jute a little to assist in the stopping process, did my best to put it back together as it should be, and everything worked again - except the power locks. Apparently I shorted that circuit out somehow sometime in the process, as the fuse was blown. And, of course, I couldn't find a new one in that size. So, parts store tomorrow.

Glad it didn't cost any money to fix. I'm going to be careful about the auto-open function and not let it drive all the way down (at least not until after the racing is over this Friday).