BucfanTitan

I am sure this has been covered and I am missing the answer/thread.

If I was to disconnect the caliper from the brake lines, what is the best way to do this so I don't leak all of the brake fluid out of the system? Also how long is it safe to leave the lines clamped/disconnected? I have to repair the driver rear and would like to paint the calipers as well.

I have found this tool would this work if it is safe to use?
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...set-65116.html

Thank you for your help. Want to make sure I don't run into any issues before I start working on this project. First time actually disconnecting the calipers from a car. So I want to make sure I am safe and don't have issues/problems down the road.

kimmer

Just buy some speed bleeders it makes it super easy to do and then you will be sure not to have any air.

SJW

Absolutely DO NOT use any sort of pinch clamp on a brake hose. Accept that if you disconnect the hose from the caliper, you'll have fluid escape, and be prepared to deal with it appropriately. In fact, you really should flush the brake system every two years anyway. DOT 3 fluid is hygroscopic, which means it will absorb moisture out of the atmosphere. This reduces the boiling point of the fluid, and contributes to corrosion of the brake lines, caliper bores, etc. Use this as an ideal opportunity to get fresh fluid in the system, and bleed the system thoroughly to purge all air after you have it all back together.

Live well,

SJW

HlhnEast

If your concerned about fluid leaking, I am pretty sure a top notch auto parts would have flare caps. You might find them at a good hardware as well. Before you reattach the lines you may as well do a little PM and gravity bleed the lines to fresh up the fluid.

Good luck!

WVZR-1

Also do NOT use the brake hoses as "hangers" for the calipers either. If you're going to the effort to remove the calipers seize the opportunity and just replace the brake hoses anyway. It's a very wise maintenance project while you're there. There's no need for the specialty hoses, off the shelf from auto parts stores will do and make sure you replace the copper crush washers used to seal the banjo bolt to the caliper, there's two per wheel.

HlhnEast

I didnt think about this but Dave is spot on here. These hoses collapse internally with no clue from the outside and will lock your brakes down tight as a tick. I dealt with this once on a Cutlass convertible and it took me a couple of days to figure it out because I had never run into it before. AND if your going to replace the hoses you CAN use vice grips to clamp the hoses.

Good luck!

c4cruiser

Are the brake lines original to the car? If so, they are 20 years old and it may be worth the extra time and effort to replace them.

You are going to have to bleed the brakes anyway; you will lose the fluid that's in the caliper. Trying to clamp off an old brake line may result in cracking of the hose wall. The clamps in the HF link could very well do that.

As mentioned, it's a good time to do a complete fluid flush. Is the fluid a dark color, even black-ish? If so, get some new fluid and once the calipers are on and the hoses replaced, then do the fluid flush.

If the bolts for the brake hoses have copper crush washers, you will have to replace them. They are available at any of the chain store parts houses. Do not reuse them. Some replacement hose kits come with washers.

BucfanTitan

Thank you everyone who helped me with the issue.

But my concern was when I took the calipers and hoses off I didn't want to completely drain the master cylinder, I heard that is a real pain if it runs dry. That is why I was looking for a solution to cap or clamp the hose off while the calipers are off the car being serviced.

WVZR-1

You will have 2 copper washers at each hose to caliper mounting flange, use the old washers, an M10 bolt, nut and the 2 washers to seal the brake hose if you want. I've never done it but there's no reason why it wouldn't work. Should be very straight forward. I would think you would want a 10mm shoulder or a little less on the bolt.

You're just substituting the banjo bolt with a solid bolt and using the nut to secure it.

Here's the banjo bolt and washers at each caliper, you're using a solid bolt and adding a nut:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0273&ppt=C0142