n03stang

I have 1984 corvette with a doug nash and was wondering Is there any way to make a stainless clutch line? My rubber section is flexing to much and i think its prevent me from shifting into 3rd at higher rpms.

c4cruiser

If the original line is soft and expanding, you should be seeing shifting issues in all gears. The clutch master is going to generate the same pressure when you depress the clutch pedal regardless of gear selection.

Find a shop that builds hydraulic hoses. In most all cases, these shops can build brake hoses and the clutch line is not very different. Also look for shops that specialize in brake work. Give them the old hose assembly and ask them to replace the old rubber section with a stainless section.

s carter

your request didn't sound to far fetched and a good idea, so a 20 second BING search there are many choices of vendors

http://www.cssbinc.com/clutch-hoses-corvette.aspx

DUB

Buy this line/hose assembly and install it. Because making a solid stainless steel line is pointless because you have to have a flex point because you are going from the body to the transmission..which are separate and move. A solid line would fatigue and break.

DUB

hcbph

I took it the comment was replace the rubber section with a stainless reinforced portion as in brake lines. I actually looked into if a full stainless reinforced line could be installed in place of the current steel/rubber setup. I would think it might work better for bleeding out any air as needed because the line would be flexible instead of having that hard loop at the top.

DUB

If you are referring to using stainless steel braided hose from point 'A' to point 'B' and all appropriate fittings...I can agree with that. And...especially if the hose is very highly rated to ensure that it can not swell when being used. Because if it swells...what is the point.

BUT...NOT rigid stainless steel tube from 'A' to 'B'. That would not be wise at all. Fatigue would get to it over time.

DUB

AJ123

That's what I have in my 87. Also when fuel lines were Brocken by a fan belt replaced with Stainless braided hose from filters to fuel rail

can't find pictures of clutch master to slave.

with the 383 install went with a hydraulic bearing works great

hcbph

Exactly what I was thinking. I've found a couple of sites with fittings and lines but not sure what size fittings would be required
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/gr...oupID=PTFEHOSE
I can't find the one with the hose at the moment, but that's the one for the fittings.

AJ123

Call the company and tell them what you are doing and they may have your answers

http://www.summitracing.com/


in c3
Default


I started at the master cylinder. I installed two AN adapters into the master cylinder ports. I removed the original stock proportioning valve; however this is not necessary, as you can install AN adapters into the stock proportioning valve ports. I mounted two aftermarket adjustable proportioning valves. I took my measurements from the Master cylinder to the installed valves. I had two lines made, a 90 deg. swivel fitting for the master cylinder end of the hose and a straigth fitting for the proportion valve end of the hose. Connected them. Took measurement from proportioning valve to the driver side stock brake hose. I replaced the original rubber brake hose witha stainless steel one from ZIP barkes. I installed a AN adapter into the upper end of the stainless steel hose. I then had a AN hose made one end with a 90 deg. swivel and the other straight to connect the proportioning valve to the driver side brake. I secured the line using the clamps normally used to hold the old steel line. The passenger side rubber brake hose was replaced by a stainless steel brake line, a AN adapter installed in it upper opening. I then took measurements from the proporting valve to the passenger side brake hose and had a braided line made, one end with a 90 deg. swivel and the other end straight. Connected it. It is held in place by the stock clamps used for the old stel line. The rear lines were more fun! I measured from my rear proprtioning valve along the frame, following the path of the original steel line. Near the rear you will have to thread the line through the same openings as the original, need small fingers and patience. I then installed a AN adapter to the distributioon brake block and had a braided hose made. I then connected the line and all is great! I left the steel lines in place from the distribution block to the rear brake calipers. Now I know why they say a picture is worth a 1000 words. Still working on getting the camera.

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Old 07-25-2007, 06:51 AM

Found this in c3

DUB

Now we are talking about a fuel system. Which is not the same and clutch line/hose assembly in the initial post.

Look at GOODRIDGE. They have a reputation of being really good.

Not knowing what we are talking about now...clutch or fuel.

On a stock Cross-fire set-up...I do not see how a belt could damage a rigid steel line...and getting to the rubber is kinda hard due to where it is located....but I can say...the braided hose is a good choice as long as it is correctly installed.

DUB

AJ123

<<<@!1!@>>>

The lines work the same. It was stock at that time there is no reason to challenge this. **** happens.
Now running 383 Stroker and super ram
On to helping we used the stock line to the rubber fitting then attached the ss brake hose lines to the slave. This is common practice when using a hydraulic bearing. We usually have a few vets in our shop a month.

with ss lines you can use a 90 or what ever fits to the ss lines to make it work.
DO the work your self it is easy but you can get splinters. They make a tool to make it easier.

If you have a speed shop in your city they can show you how to do everything/ measure and let you make custom fit.
Good luck Steve
The mcleo hydraulics tob is what is on the TKO 600
Careful getting advice from anyone. Many have many experiences
Steve.
these below are ready made I am using these as examples. I bought my own line and put my own fittings on the lines bought ss braided brake line from summit/ fittings from local speed shop.
the video simply shows how to work with braided ss hose fuel/ brake/ etc easy to cut to your desired length/ use full screen on youtube video
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/add-716130h

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/afc-40280

http://www.mcleodracing.com/index.ph...aulic-tob.html

DUB

AJ123,

Are you referring to me 'challenging' something you did???? You switched off the topic of clutch hose/line and got onto your fuel line set-up. I NEVER WROTE that what you did would not work in regards to the clutch plumbing.

I HAVE ABSOLUTELY NO PROBLEM with anything you did at all. So if you feel I commented in a way that made you feel like what you did was WRONG...that is your problem...BECAUSE I DID NOT. Try reading POST 10 again.

But you can not even compare the fuel lines on a Cross-Fire to that of a Tuned-port. NOT EVEN the same thing....by any stretch of the imagination.

You were back and forth in your comments...which is why I commented on...what are we talking about now???

DUB

AJ123

Have you started your project. Post pictures if you have.