The Bus

My alternator has three connections. One heavy wire to the battery , one red wire from the two pin connector to switched +12V. Where does the other wire connect. This wiring is on a race car. Wiring caught fire from a oil fire. I've seen some drawings with the wire going to a charging light and/or a resistor. Problem being no bulb # or resistor values. Any help wanted.

Thanks

ANTI VENOM

What year is the car/harness? Maybe they are all the same but it might help if someone was to look it up in a FSM.

WVZR-1

Identify the alternator by model # and wire it as such. You could have maybe a CS130, CS144 or even an earlier 17SI. If it's just a "race car" as you mention there are alternatives to wiring procedure and also the wire sizes required when remote battery relocation has been done.

If it's burnt and needs repair it might be time to just completely rewire the charging system.

Regarding the resistor, there's suggestions I believe for 47Ω and 82Ω, depends on whose wiring scheme you elect to use.

The Bus

The alternator is a stock unit from a "91". I'm rewiring the entire car from scratch. ALL WIRING went up in flames.

WVZR-1

This could be an interesting read for you regarding the CS130 alternators which is what your '91 is.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...Part2/#onewire

If you're actually doing as you say then you've a substantial task ahead of you and you need a "plan" - the alternator should likely take care of itself I'd think after you determine the plan and the wiring scheme for the rest of the car. When you mention entire car do you actually only mean from the C100 forward and you're maintaining the original IP and balance of car OR is it actually "entire car"!

If you're actually doing the "entire car" then you might want to start with Part1 of the link I mentioned and part 3 also.

You need to determine if you're going to use a volt meter in your IP display or maybe just a "light" to answer your very basic "first question". Your alternator should be pinned as SLFP. You might consider a ground strap from alternator case to engine block also.

The Bus

Thanks for the info. That's the info I needed. Wiring the entire race car will not be a problem. Not much to wire. Ing,brake lights,starter,gauges,computer. Spent my life in the instrumentation field. Never actually did or checked how a alternator was wired; but know enough to not just connect wires to see what works. That usually makes much smoke. LOL

THANKS

Cliff Harris

The resistor in a Corvette is 510 ohms. It goes between the ignition switch "run" position and the L terminal of the alternator.

The Bus

The rewire is complete. Also installed a new Holly EFI computer. It actually went well. After the last signal [ RPM s ] was connected to the EFI computer it fired within 5 secs. There is a on/off and fuse for each circuit. Mounted the fuse panel to dash to the right of steering wheel. All the fuses have built in lights if the fuse blows. No more under the dash to check and replace fuses.

jv9999

Chrome flags pirate4x4 as a malware site. Beware.

crowz

pirate4x4 isn't a malware site. Its a killer resource with tons of good info on it for some very radical builds people have done.

desertmike1

Take a look at page 11, fig's [7-2D] and or [7-2F] for a CS130 Alternator.

You have a choice between a charging light or a (15 Ohm 2 watt) resister at Pin [L]

http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInst...4-30020-21.pdf

gerardvg

[QUOTE=desertmike1;1588707463]Take a look at page 11, fig's [7-2D] and or [7-2F] for a CS130 Alternator.

You have a choice between a charging light or a (15 Ohm 2 watt) resister at Pin [L]
QUOTE]



I have tried the resistor wire and have found the best results by putting a simple 12 volt light, the charging is now great and always have between 12.6-13.9. With the resistance wire it rarely showed 13 volts during charging, always at around 11.9 to 12.8.

(that was with the corvette central si to cs adaptor harness with the correct resistance wire).

Thought you would be interested in my findings if you encounter charging issues.

Cliff Harris

I ignored my browser's warning and went there anyway. Lots of good information on various alternators there.

aDigitalPhantom

I'm currently using a 470ohm resistor, and it works great.

gerardvg

Thanks for the 470 ohm resistor tip, have pulled the trans from my car but when it is back up and running i will try the 470 ohm resistor.

(the small light globe looks out of place in the engine bay)

Perhaps the SI to CS converter had the wrong resistance, causing the lower than normal charge condition.

The harness connector clip has broken and have a new connector that i have to fit, will do the 470 ohm resistor trick then.