C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

charging problem, chances of two bad alternators?

Old 11-25-2014, 05:05 PM
  #21  
desertmike1
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Originally Posted by volkswagens-for-life
Very interesting.. thanks for explaining. Why 6 diodes to prevent reverse draining though?
The Alternator produce's A/C power, this is converted through the Silicone/Diode rectifier assembly to D/C power, and then regulated to the desirable output voltage..

So it is possible the OP has had three bad regulator's! but still..
Old 11-25-2014, 07:50 PM
  #22  
drive it
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Originally Posted by desertmike1
The Alternator produce's A/C power, this is converted through the Silicone/Diode rectifier assembly to D/C power, and then regulated to the desirable output voltage..

So it is possible the OP has had three bad regulator's! but still..
A friend of mine just went thru your same problem.
Turned out it was a bad Positive connection with high resistance intermittently at the terminal block-follow the positive from the alt back to it.
It kept burning out alt and batteries and showed the same type of voltage fluctuations.
So a logical place to start looking.....
Old 11-25-2014, 09:48 PM
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volkswagens-for-life
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Originally Posted by desertmike1
The Alternator produce's A/C power, this is converted through the Silicone/Diode rectifier assembly to D/C power, and then regulated to the desirable output voltage..

So it is possible the OP has had three bad regulator's! but still..
Ohhh I see! So what other options do manufacturers have other than diodes in order to produce dc?
Old 11-29-2014, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by volkswagens-for-life
Ohhh I see! So what other options do manufacturers have other than diodes in order to produce dc?
the other option would be an DC generator, they are nearly bullit proof, and widely used on commercial aircraft. the down side is they produce very little power at idle engine speed, and were abandoned in the 50's on most every automobile.
Old 11-29-2014, 04:56 PM
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Interesting. So why is it that only c4 corvettes have issues w/ the diodes blowing then? Dont really hear much about that in other makes/models of cars.
Old 12-04-2014, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by drive it
A friend of mine just went thru your same problem.
Turned out it was a bad Positive connection with high resistance intermittently at the terminal block-follow the positive from the alt back to it.
It kept burning out alt and batteries and showed the same type of voltage fluctuations.
So a logical place to start looking.....
I'll check that and see what I come up with. The holidays, travel, and work have kept me from looking at the vette anymore. Poor thing has been sitting in the garage all alone.
Old 12-05-2014, 08:22 AM
  #27  
AGENT 86
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Have you tested the field and sensing wiring to alternator ?
If the field wire or sensing wire had an intermittent open condition, the alternator will stop producing power.

Do you have a service manual ?
Old 12-05-2014, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by desertmike1
The Alternator produce's A/C power, this is converted through the Silicone/Diode rectifier assembly to D/C power, and then regulated to the desirable output voltage..

So it is possible the OP has had three bad regulator's! but still..
The number of diodes, and other parts will depend on the quality of DC power that is output. It will also depend on how things are wired.

These links require JAVA
Half-Wave Rectifier
Full-Wave Rectifier
Old 12-05-2014, 02:23 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by chevyowner
The number of diodes, and other parts will depend on the quality of DC power that is output. It will also depend on how things are wired.

These links require JAVA
Half-Wave Rectifier
Full-Wave Rectifier
very cool link..

A Quality Tester will look at the Wave Form, and determine if Diodes are failing..

Once again, they don't work one day and not the next, they are either good or bad.. I personally would be taking a nice hard look at the "field" wiring, this could be a simple spot of corrosion under a large crimp connector, or a bad chassis ground..

Last edited by desertmike1; 12-05-2014 at 02:55 PM.
Old 12-08-2014, 09:30 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by AGENT 86
Have you tested the field and sensing wiring to alternator ?
If the field wire or sensing wire had an intermittent open condition, the alternator will stop producing power.

Do you have a service manual ?
Unfortunately I do not have a fsm. I have a Haynes "service" manual. Is this the one? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ELOWSQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1418092020&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
Old 12-08-2014, 11:54 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by chevyowner
Yes it is possible to get two bad reman alternators in a row.
I once got 3 bad remans in a row for a 71 GMC....

I also got 3 bad alternators from the Twilight Zone for my 77 Jimmy.
I try not to buy remans anymore.alts, starters,pumps ect. There a crap shoot and just not worth it.
Bite the bullit and order a new Powermaster from Jegs or Summit.
Old 12-09-2014, 01:07 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by sgtskid
resistance between the alternator and positive terminal was 1.8 ohms.
I statted the car again and voltage was back up to 14.31 volts at the alternator and 13.8 volts at the battery.
Originally Posted by drive it
A friend of mine just went thru your same problem.
Turned out it was a bad Positive connection with high resistance intermittently at the terminal block-follow the positive from the alt back to it.
It kept burning out alt and batteries and showed the same type of voltage fluctuations.
So a logical place to start looking.....
Originally Posted by AGENT 86
Have you tested the field and sensing wiring to alternator ?
If the field wire or sensing wire had an intermittent open condition, the alternator will stop producing power.

Do you have a service manual ?
^These. I would be very carefully inspecting the wiring. 0.5v drop from the alt to the battery is too much, for starters.
Old 12-09-2014, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by sgtskid
I turned the car off measured the battery at 12.1 volts and the resistance rose to 2.1 ohms. I statted the car again and voltage was back up to 14.31 volts at the alternator and 13.8 volts at the battery.
What AMP Alternator do you have?


I have a 1 volt drop from the alternator to the battery, and this is with a new battery cable from the alternator to the battery. It was cheaper to buy a 29" 4ga battery cable then it was to buy 29" of 10ga, and ends to connect it. I think the 100AMP alternator I have is too small, but the car always starts.
Old 02-14-2015, 01:08 PM
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Finally got some time to work on it again. Bought a fsm abs went through the diagnostics of battery over charging/under charging. Connected volt meter to terminal "l" and ground and got no voltage. All other wires have battery voltage.
Next step is to jumper between "l" and ground and watch the "charge indicator".
so dumb question, what is the charge indicator? Volt gauge or battery light? My message center hasn't worked in who knows how long so if it's on it. ...
Old 02-14-2015, 01:42 PM
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I went to O'Rielly's and ordered the HiPo one. $125. When it came in it was dirtier than the one in the car. I went down to my local rebuilder and for $85 he replaced all the guts, extended test, and has been working perfectly for 6 months..
Old 02-15-2015, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Ripe93
I went to O'Rielly's and ordered the HiPo one. $125. When it came in it was dirtier than the one in the car. I went down to my local rebuilder and for $85 he replaced all the guts, extended test, and has been working perfectly for 6 months..
I agree completely, if there is a good local electrical rebuilder having a custom rebuild done is the way to go. A good shop can use heavy duty parts and make up an almost fool proof alternator.
Old 02-15-2015, 07:10 PM
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I don't think it's the alternator. Maybe its not doing it job because its not being 'told' to.
It has to reference battery voltage to charge.

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Old 02-15-2015, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 1984Z51auto
I agree completely, if there is a good local electrical rebuilder having a custom rebuild done is the way to go. A good shop can use heavy duty parts and make up an almost fool proof alternator.
I'm Still not convinced it's not my car. Three alternators still seems very suspicious.
Old 02-15-2015, 11:22 PM
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Yes for sure some new "SI" 86-91 alternators are garbage, i have come across bad tolerances. Bearings not gripping the shaft, the shaft can move back and forward which means the brushes will not contact the communtator and charging stops. You will notice tapping the alternator with a screwdriver handle will make it charge again.

I got sick of replacing new reconditioned alternators, fitted a powermaster and have not had any issues since that is many years ago the voltage at idle is also so much better.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251811352420?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Old 02-16-2015, 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by volkswagens-for-life
Very interesting.. thanks for explaining. Why 6 diodes to prevent reverse draining though?
Because alternators generate 3 phase power. You need 3 positive diodes and 3 negative diodes to get the full output.

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