Dirty 1990

I'm looking to make about a 7,000 rpm (redline) motor and was wondering if the stock connecting rods, pistons, and crankshaft are up to the task and if they are is the anything I need to do such as new bearing, balancing, etc.
Thanks

cv67

None of it is up to the task of 7k unfortunately.

Dirty 1990

Ok I was afraid of that. Can u or anybody show me some parts that are up to the task and are good for let's just say 500hp?

Bandit's C4

Ummm... the Calloway twin turbo C4 was only 345 hp and 465 ft/lbs torque - $20,000 option back then.

At that price - start with a 2008 LS3 Corvette @ 430 HP.

aDigitalPhantom

Sorry OP I don't know what parts you would need, but hopefully someone who does and is willing to share the information will post.

I may be wrong here, but it is my understanding that it is not hard to get 400-500crank hp from a small block chevy if you build it correctly.

Not everyone has $30,000+ to buy a 2008 Corvette sitting around doing nothing, and unless you do and really hate the c4 why not build an engine for it for much less?

Dirty 1990

Ok realistically by the time I'm done with the car probably won't have more than 450 hp & Tq and I was just planning on doing different things at different times as I get the money. What should I do to start with I was thinking a new intake (miniram, lt1, stealth ram, etc) but what should I do after that ?

Bandit's C4

Considering a heavily-built 383 crate engine (400-475 hp) is less than $5,000 - one may need to consider the OEM drivetrain components needing to be upgraded as well...

Ref: http://www.tristarengines.com/catalo...num-heads.html

Tommycourt

With that kind of HP I would follow advise from Bandit's C4. There's more than just an engine that will have to be modded. Trans will have to be gone through, driveline, half axles, bearings, and rear end gears and ratios. I don't think that what you presently have will stand up to your HP requirements although I could be wrong. It takes a lot more than just an engine to keep it together. You may consider lowering your HP requirements and go for a little less depending on your budget. Not saying it can't be done but be prepared to open up a fat wallet and taking your time as part of what you want may have to be farmed out. Not trying to discourage you but this is just MHO! Good luck!!
Tommy

Dirty 1990

Well I haven't forgotten about the driveline. I haven't gotten the car yet but I just want to get right down to business when I get it. I will be getting a car with a zf6 speed and know that's strong I have heard about guys using that stock trans in 900 hp then I will probably just buy a complete axel and driveshaft that I know are plenty strong.
Now What are the best cheapest thing I can do for power

Tom400CFI

The "best cheapest"? That doesn't exist.

A 400 hit of NOZ?

RollaMo-LT4

Cheap
Reliable
Fast

Pick two.

You can't get all three.

Dirty 1990

Well what I ment by cheap was the lowest costing high performance part on the market but by no means "cheap"
Now what are the most basic parts I can buy for power?
Thanks

Bandit's C4

Let's be clear... there is NO cheap method - or all of us would have done it driving 500 HP C4 Corvettes.

OK... let's see. This idea is hypothetically 25 years old already on a 1990 Corvette.... and you may be seeing and spending more than $10,000 on this project plus the cost of a car.

You haven't bought the car... yet.
You are not mechanically familiar with a car.
You are trying to find a cheap way to add 200 HP... as you find the money?
If you do not have the money now.... may take you several years of incremental updates... eventually costing you more over the long time. The conclusion may not be the most positive one.

As with many side projects... the car may ultimately sit and collect dust - wasting away in pieces as you repair the damage from the wrong decisions.

If it was a financed project; replace and rebuild the entire drivetrain... one time.
Any other way... you will regret it - will nickel-dime you to death

Tom400CFI

The question is unanswerable.

THe cheapest, best part availalbe would be EITHER:
*The CHEAPEST part you can buy, say, a 'high performance" hose clamp for ~$2.00. Why is it the cheapest/best? It is the cheapest, so therefore that makes it the Best, since there is nothing else in that price range. Right?
OR
*The BEST part you can buy; a $90,000, hand milled, unobtainium, billet engine block, cryogenically treated, anodized, and blessed by the Pope. Why is it the cheapest/best? It is the the BEST, so therefore that makes it the cheapest, since there is nothing else in that quality realm that competes with it -anything cheaper, isn't the best... Right?

And then there is the range in between those extremes, where cheaper parts are less best, and better parts, are less cheap.


You could help us, help you by stating your power/performance goals, and a budget. Then for that money, we can much more clearly advise you as to some real world options.

MavsAK

What are your goals?
Why do you want to turn 7k? Is this a dedicated track car?

You want 500 horses that is attainable with Boost the most easy route, providing that your engine is in good shape.

That being said, I'd expect to spend around 7 to 9k getting there.
5k for the supercharger another 2k to get the internals up to snuff. All assuming you do the work yourself of course.

For that same 7k you can find an EROD LS3 kit and start with 430 horses. Of course that's a pretty involved swap but can be done.

Then you have to make sure the drivetrain is up to it too...

Dirty 1990

Ok forget the cheap discussion. What parts should I get to accomplish at least 350 hp & Tq that will make power to at least 6k rpm. I plan on taking this to the track multiple times a year.
Thanks

Bandit's C4

Get a 1996 LT4 six speed - known to be more than the documented 330 HP stock. Done.

Or... there's a complete kit to push the LT1 over 400 HP.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/vem...e/viewall.html

vader86

Personally I would start with the bottom end, and build that up properly so that upgrades could be done later on. However in my own case i did it all at once and had my engine built and did the heads/cam/intake all at the same time because I could afford it and wanted fewer headaches with mismatching combinations.

But the bottom you have can handle 350/350 and get to 6K. Depending on age and condition of bearings and such, it may last years or it may not last 1 year. That is the gamble.

If its a M6, I'd just go with Miniram, pick a reasonable roller cam, port the 113 heads and you can get to about 350-400 chp. With the right springs for the cam, they'll handle 6K.

In the back of your mind, you would need to know that you'll have to save up several grand to build that bottom end up properly to take the later abuse of 7K rpm + higher CR. That would be balancing and blueprinting, all the other proper block work, bearings, forged rods, forged pistons. Then on to the right heads, which just about everyone here including myself will recommend AFR 180-200 (depending on engine displacement you decide), the right camshaft for the bigger engine and heads, and maybe porting on the Miniram.

This assumes you have already done the requisite exhaust work to get 350+hp: headers, either bullet or some good cat brand or no cats at all, and the rest of the pipes.

MavsAK

383 stroker, 219 lingenfelter cam.. ported intake or edelbrock/TPIS lower intake, edelbrock runners, (even better IF you can find them or get some Arizona speed and marine runners), long tube headers, xpipe dual exhaust, will get you there comfortably.

Past 350 horses, and you need to start looking at new heads or porting the 113s, and either a FIRST tpi intake, or going to a miniram, or edlebrock proflow intake.
If you're partial to the aesthetics of TPI, after 350 horses..there's always boost...that doesn't really care so much about your intake flow characteristics.

rocco16

You need to talk to your engine builder. He can advise you on the correct components and how much this is going to cost you.