C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

1992 Corvette 4L60 Transmission 4 pin or 5 pin?

Old 11-21-2014, 10:15 AM
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strotter13
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Yup I know, I am a big idiot that I bought a ship across country transmission without checking the electrical. I told the supplier that I needed a transmission for a 1992 corvette. He asked me to check the plug, I told him that I couldn't see, he said it was ok he knew which transmission to ship.

Thanks for the info on the valve body. How can I tell if my valve body is still in good operating condition from the old transmission?
Old 11-21-2014, 10:25 AM
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Just got off the phone with the seller and he is sending a new internal harness and said he would guide me through the switch. I'm gonna go ahead and start pulling the old transmission.
Old 11-21-2014, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by strotter13
Just got off the phone with the seller and he is sending a new internal harness and said he would guide me through the switch. I'm gonna go ahead and start pulling the old transmission.
Good to see your supplier is offering support - a rarity these days.
Old 11-21-2014, 09:18 PM
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Ok old transmission is out.
The fitting on one of the transmission cooler lines was stripped. Resorted to turn the brass fitting, and ended up breaking the line. As well when I was disconnecting TV, up top the plastic clip (that is 22 years old) broke. I am just going to go ahead and replace the TV cable, and of course the cooler lines (probably best anyway).

Was able to get all bell housing bolts off except one, I had to lower the tranny for that one.

Supported motor, but it was unneeded, as a previous poster had said, then engine didn't move more than an inch.

The ladder/support that runs from the tranny to the rear, I was able to unbolt it, slide it over (to the passenger side), remove the driveline, and then slide the ladder toward the rear of the car, but leave it up there for tranny removal. (By slide, I mean tap it with a hammer)

A couple things to note for anyone else that hasn't done this yet:
Starter wire is bolted to bellhousing. 4 ground wires are bolted to driver side bellhousing bolt. Transmission dipstick tube is only held in place by a single bellhousing bolt. The speedo electrical connector was bolted to the bellhousing. And that is all I can remember for now.

Oh yeah, I also broke one stud on the exhaust manifold...that will be fun to fix.

Also, it looks like the (forgive me if I am naming this incorrectly) rear main seal is leaking oil. Would now be an easy and good time to fix this? The engine has 125k on it.

Thanks again everyone for all the help. Will post pics later, and post more as I go on with the internal electrical swap.
Old 11-22-2014, 12:15 AM
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Finally Out!





I pulled the exhaust in about 2 hours. The previous owner had the exhaust bailing wired to the rear, I am going to re weld the hooks and fix that before I put it all together.





Finally she is out. I took about 8 hours, but two of those hours, my wife and I were screwing with that last bellhousing bolt. Finally we just lowered the tranny and had the bolt out in 5 minutes.
Old 11-23-2014, 05:29 PM
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Pulled the pans of both the old and new transmission, to find that the new transmission doesn't have connections on the valve body where I need to plug the old harness. Which means I think I will need to swap my valve body. Does anybody know how I can inspect my old valve body, to make sure that it is not damaged? I am not sure if I can get a new one, as I am finding out that the 4L60 5 wire is a pretty rare transmission....
Old 11-23-2014, 06:11 PM
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How much trash was in the pan?

I'd consider moving these components to the transmission you bought, the governor, the servo and of course the valve body. Would it be wise to maybe "hire" the job? Maybe or at least ask a shop how much to do those swaps for you.

I believe you've been asked but I don't recall your mentioning if you have the FSM for the car or not.

You need the proper valve body gaskets, maybe the plate but I'd think maybe wise to ask a local.
Old 11-23-2014, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
How much trash was in the pan?

I'd consider moving these components to the transmission you bought, the governor, the servo and of course the valve body. Would it be wise to maybe "hire" the job? Maybe or at least ask a shop how much to do those swaps for you.

I believe you've been asked but I don't recall your mentioning if you have the FSM for the car or not.

You need the proper valve body gaskets, maybe the plate but I'd think maybe wise to ask a local.
I have a FSM on the way (its in the mail, I got it of ebay). Why do you suggest moving the servo and the governor? I am just curious, because I know nothing about what these components do in the transmission. (Basically I am ignorant about this, and I want to learn more).

Also, the transmission out of my vette has a plastic gear on the back, I believe it is the speedometer gear. The teeth on the gear run in a diagonal, and on the new transmission the gear is metal and the teeth run horizontal. I think maybe one is for a digital speedometer and the other is for a mechanical speedometer??

Thanks for any help.
Old 11-23-2014, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
How much trash was in the pan?

I'd consider moving these components to the transmission you bought, the governor, the servo and of course the valve body. Would it be wise to maybe "hire" the job? Maybe or at least ask a shop how much to do those swaps for you.

I believe you've been asked but I don't recall your mentioning if you have the FSM for the car or not.

You need the proper valve body gaskets, maybe the plate but I'd think maybe wise to ask a local.
Sorry, I missed the first part of your question.

There was a lot of grey goop at the magnet, and one small piece of metal. Here is a photo of the piece of metal:







Small piece of metal that was in the bottom of the tranny pan at the magnet.
Old 11-23-2014, 10:53 PM
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Oh yeah, here is another issue, I forgot to ask about the bellhousing issue. The new bellhousing still has ears on it, and my old bellhousing has them shaved off. Is this going to cause fitment issues?
Old 11-24-2014, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by strotter13
Oh yeah, here is another issue, I forgot to ask about the bellhousing issue. The new bellhousing still has ears on it, and my old bellhousing has them shaved off. Is this going to cause fitment issues?
Let's try to confirm some things. I see you looked at the other thread regarding an '88 with incorrect connector so you must have seen the snapshots of the case. Does your old case have the large "V" cast into it?

You've apparently removed the VSS (drivers side rear) and if so you should be able to see a "red" drive gear internally on the transmission output shaft, and depending upon rear axle ratio the gear on the VSS should have been white, blue or green. Backing up maybe - does the replacement transmission have the correct extension housing that allows the C-beam to attach to it? You need the "red" gear on the output shaft and it needs to be installed in the correct location with the proper retainer. You need to use likely your original VSS as removed from the transmission. I don't follow exactly what you mention regarding steel gears etc.

The parts I mentioned swapping are Corvette only parts used in the 4L60 build that it would be good to retain. I believe that others would agree.

Maybe you should post a snapshot of your replacement case mating surface to the block. There's no time like the present to find out what you've received. Does the valve body look identical to your old except for the switches? Does the replacement have an auxiliary valve body like your old one should?

A 4L60 auxiliary valve body:

http://parts.nalleygmc.com/showAssem...ssembly=366564

Regarding the valve body exchange, not knowing just what your old transmission is/was it might be very important to make sure you duplicate the "check ball" placement as it is on the old if when comparing it to the FSM or ask questions first. If the transmission has been rebuilt previously or maybe had some modifications a "shift kit" could have been used and changed some things. Since the old is out of the car you might check the transmission case for information on the pan rails etc. to confirm what was actually in the car.

I don't believe you should just start disassembling things until you've established "a plan".

If you use an online image service maybe take a substantial amount of snapshots, create a separate album for them and post a link to it and ask for comments.

Last edited by WVZR-1; 11-24-2014 at 08:53 AM.
Old 11-24-2014, 09:43 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
Let's try to confirm some things. I see you looked at the other thread regarding an '88 with incorrect connector so you must have seen the snapshots of the case. Does your old case have the large "V" cast into it?

You've apparently removed the VSS (drivers side rear) and if so you should be able to see a "red" drive gear internally on the transmission output shaft, and depending upon rear axle ratio the gear on the VSS should have been white, blue or green. Backing up maybe - does the replacement transmission have the correct extension housing that allows the C-beam to attach to it? You need the "red" gear on the output shaft and it needs to be installed in the correct location with the proper retainer. You need to use likely your original VSS as removed from the transmission. I don't follow exactly what you mention regarding steel gears etc.

The parts I mentioned swapping are Corvette only parts used in the 4L60 build that it would be good to retain. I believe that others would agree.

Maybe you should post a snapshot of your replacement case mating surface to the block. There's no time like the present to find out what you've received. Does the valve body look identical to your old except for the switches? Does the replacement have an auxiliary valve body like your old one should?

A 4L60 auxiliary valve body:

http://parts.nalleygmc.com/showAssem...ssembly=366564

Regarding the valve body exchange, not knowing just what your old transmission is/was it might be very important to make sure you duplicate the "check ball" placement as it is on the old if when comparing it to the FSM or ask questions first. If the transmission has been rebuilt previously or maybe had some modifications a "shift kit" could have been used and changed some things. Since the old is out of the car you might check the transmission case for information on the pan rails etc. to confirm what was actually in the car.

I don't believe you should just start disassembling things until you've established "a plan".

If you use an online image service maybe take a substantial amount of snapshots, create a separate album for them and post a link to it and ask for comments.
I can't read my old case yet. It's covered in grease and grime. The new tranny has no tail housing, I have to swap it.

On the output shaft of the new trannys is a metal gear, where the red one on my old tranny is.

I will get more pics to show this.

Valve body's look the same, except the old on has more switches.

I will post more pics soon.

Thanks
Old 11-24-2014, 09:56 AM
  #33  
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Old bellhousing, shaved dog ears.





Old output shaft, plastic red gear.





New out put shaft, metal gear.





New bellhousing, non shaved dog ear.
Old 11-24-2014, 10:23 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by strotter13



Old bellhousing, shaved dog ears.





Old output shaft, plastic red gear.






New out put shaft, metal gear.





New bellhousing, non shaved dog ear.


Just my opinion, but this installation is going to turn into a nightmare. The new trans is a K case which was used primarily in trucks. It also has a reluctor wheel for the speedo rather than the red gear that needs to be changed. The odds are good that the outputshaft is different and has to be modified. I would return this trans, take my licking on freight and have your original one rebuild locally.
Old 11-24-2014, 10:32 AM
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You'll need to change the gears on the output shaft. The metal gear is for an electronic pick up VSS on the replacement transmission. You need to confirm the length of the output shaft is the same. The Corvette shaft is 5/8 - 3/4 shorter than the typical short output shaft. I'd measure from the case to the end of the shaft for comparisons. I can't give you a dimension to confirm but they need to match. What is often done when using an "other than" Corvette is to cut off the longer to make it match. Did the vendor send you O-rings and gaskets for the exchange of the tail-shaft housing?

I see the ears you mentioned now. Yes it appears to be a K case.

I see "arbee" has posted while I was thinking. He's got likely the best solution in mind for sure. I don't believe I'd want any part of the effort that is going to be required for the install. Did you pay with a credit card OR? You didn't receive what you needed for sure but none of us know what the original arrangement was for. You mentioned Florida and $1000 only best I recall and it was a done deal I believe you mentioned when you posted.

The transmission removed isn't a V case either (I doubt) so you could forget about swapping some of the parts I mentioned unless it was confirmed they were changed over on the last build. Do you know the previous owner? If the older build was maybe local it might be wise to have a conversation with that shop. The output shaft in the removed one appears to be correct or someone went to considerable effort to add an appropriate chamfer on the slip yoke end of it, or so it appears.

Last edited by WVZR-1; 11-24-2014 at 10:53 AM.
Old 11-24-2014, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
You'll need to change the gears on the output shaft. The metal gear is for an electronic pick up VSS on the replacement transmission. You need to confirm the length of the output shaft is the same. The Corvette shaft is 5/8 - 3/4 shorter than the typical short output shaft. I'd measure from the case to the end of the shaft for comparisons. I can't give you a dimension to confirm but they need to match. What is often done when using an "other than" Corvette is to cut off the longer to make it match. Did the vendor send you O-rings and gaskets for the exchange of the tail-shaft housing?

I see the ears you mentioned now. Yes it appears to be a K case.

I see "arbee" has posted while I was thinking. He's got likely the best solution in mind for sure. I don't believe I'd want any part of the effort that is going to be required for the install. Did you pay with a credit card OR? You didn't receive what you needed for sure but none of us know what the original arrangement was for. You mentioned Florida and $1000 only best I recall and it was a done deal I believe you mentioned when you posted.

The transmission removed isn't a V case either (I doubt) so you could forget about swapping some of the parts I mentioned unless it was confirmed they were changed over on the last build. Do you know the previous owner? If the older build was maybe local it might be wise to have a conversation with that shop. The output shaft in the removed one appears to be correct or someone went to considerable effort to add an appropriate chamfer on the slip yoke end of it, or so it appears.
Ok here is an update. The I have swapped the speedometer gear, or whatever that thing is. The old metal one slid right off with a pull puller, and the new one slid on with slight tapping.
FYI (you guys probably already know this, but I didn't) the little clip on the red plastic speedometer gear, you don't take it off first, you pull the red gear, and make sure the clip clears as the gear slides off, and then the clip comes off, it seems to me to be more of an alignment tool then a retaining tool.

Measured the shaft, there is a differrence between the two of 1/8" (as near as I can tell with a tape measure and eye ball. The company (transmissions plus) said that it would be acceptable.

They did send new gaskets for the tailhousing.

After talking with the company, they are going to send me a new valve body, to make things right. I pulled both valve bodys, to look at the seperator plates and compare them. Here they are:




They look the same to me

New valve body at the top of the photo, old valve body at the bottom of the photo.





New seperator plate (correct me if I am naming this wrong)





Old seperator plate

All check ***** were in the exact same locations on the 3 wire and 5 wire valve bodys. They look identical except for the pressure switches.
So it looks like I am going to be ok...maybe. We will see.

Can I leave the dog ears on the K case, or am I going to have to cut them off?

Also my old case is a V case, I cleaned it off and looked. where one of the check ***** is on my old case, I saw some burring/marring. If I decide to rebuild this tranny for future use, how do I fix this? Debur it? Here is a pic:




Final

damage to the old case, near the check ball
Old 11-24-2014, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by arbee
Just my opinion, but this installation is going to turn into a nightmare. The new trans is a K case which was used primarily in trucks. It also has a reluctor wheel for the speedo rather than the red gear that needs to be changed. The odds are good that the outputshaft is different and has to be modified. I would return this trans, take my licking on freight and have your original one rebuild locally.
Well I learned my lesson on buying a tranny from across the country..
however, the tranny and torque converter together were 850, shipping was 200 dollars. So if I were to send the tranny back, it would cost me 200 more dollars to get 850 back.

Basically I would loos 400 dollars on the deal and end up with 650 in my pocket from my original 1050. If for some reason this doesn't work out, I will file a case on ebay (that is where I got the tranny) and try to get at least 850 back. But so far the people (transmission plus) has been working with me. I feel that I am partially at fault here because I should have double checked the wiring before i ordered, however these guys are supposed to be the transmission experts, and they could have done a little research to find out that 92-93 vettes have the 5 wire valve body...

So if the whole deal goes south, and they decide not to make it right (which they said they were going to send me a new valve body) then Ill file a case on them, get whatever money I can back, and sell the tranny they sent me to someone that could use it (craigslist or something).

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Old 11-24-2014, 03:40 PM
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Damage on old case


Old 11-24-2014, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by strotter13
Well I learned my lesson on buying a tranny from across the country..
however, the tranny and torque converter together were 850, shipping was 200 dollars. So if I were to send the tranny back, it would cost me 200 more dollars to get 850 back.

Basically I would loos 400 dollars on the deal and end up with 650 in my pocket from my original 1050. If for some reason this doesn't work out, I will file a case on ebay (that is where I got the tranny) and try to get at least 850 back. But so far the people (transmission plus) has been working with me. I feel that I am partially at fault here because I should have double checked the wiring before i ordered, however these guys are supposed to be the transmission experts, and they could have done a little research to find out that 92-93 vettes have the 5 wire valve body...

So if the whole deal goes south, and they decide not to make it right (which they said they were going to send me a new valve body) then Ill file a case on them, get whatever money I can back, and sell the tranny they sent me to someone that could use it (craigslist or something).
Don't be too hard on yourself. I don't know of anyone who at one time or another hasn't made an error in judgement. Looking closer at your pictures, it appears as if the proper shaft was used, only installed in a K case rather than a V case. If they send you the proper valve body, you should be able to say "Bob's your uncle". Do you have to return the old tranny as a core? If not and it's yours, maybe get the ATSG guide, buy a 175.00 rebuild kit and have at 'er. Would give you some experience and a spare tranny.
Old 11-24-2014, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by arbee
Don't be too hard on yourself. I don't know of anyone who at one time or another hasn't made an error in judgement. Looking closer at your pictures, it appears as if the proper shaft was used, only installed in a K case rather than a V case. If they send you the proper valve body, you should be able to say "Bob's your uncle". Do you have to return the old tranny as a core? If not and it's yours, maybe get the ATSG guide, buy a 175.00 rebuild kit and have at 'er. Would give you some experience and a spare tranny.
Arbee, you and I really are on the same wavelength, first with the counting the wires deal, and then with this.

I just ordered the ATSG guide last night, and was looking at rebuild kits, for my old tranny after this whole ordeal is over

Plus it seems as if they don't need me to ship back the new 3 wire/4pin valve body included with the new tranny, so I guess I could hold on to that or sell it....

Any suggestions on rebuild kits?

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