Vats
#1
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Member Since: Nov 2012
Location: watsontown pa
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vats
Has anyone heard of or used VATS delete module from new Rockies incorporated....they're guaranteed to work 30 day money back guarantee.....this module replaces the baths and the key is no longer needed or rather the key with the pellet according to sources
#2
Burning Brakes
I would not buy that. Painless makes as far as I can tell the same thing, and I would rather buy it from painless then that site. 64023 early type, and 64024 late type.
#3
Le Mans Master
If you want to just delete the ignition cylinder from the vats system, go to Corvette Central or Ecklers and get a delete module to do this...You can get them for about $24.00...This allows you to use any key that will fit the ignition lock, either with or without a pellet...This eliminates the problem of having a worn pellet or bad contacts in the ignition cylinder....,...WW
#4
Burning Brakes
#5
Instructor
Do NOT buy New Rockies. I tried it, you have to access the ccm, tap into some wires and TRY a combination of switches and I never got it to work. You only need the correct resister inline. I got one off EBAY
rather than try to make one. By the way this resister bypasses PassKey
not VATS. Vats can be programmed out of your eprom or by adding a module from PCM of North Carolina
rather than try to make one. By the way this resister bypasses PassKey
not VATS. Vats can be programmed out of your eprom or by adding a module from PCM of North Carolina
#6
Burning Brakes
Do NOT buy New Rockies. I tried it, you have to access the ccm, tap into some wires and TRY a combination of switches and I never got it to work. You only need the correct resister inline. I got one off EBAY
rather than try to make one. By the way this resister bypasses PassKey
not VATS. Vats can be programmed out of your eprom or by adding a module from PCM of North Carolina
rather than try to make one. By the way this resister bypasses PassKey
not VATS. Vats can be programmed out of your eprom or by adding a module from PCM of North Carolina
The link above has the resistance information, and more good information.
The resistor is the best method if every other part of the system is working correctly beside the ignition cylinder reading the resistance.
The modules like painless and other places offer would not enable the start relay and other systems that are also disabled. Those are not hard to bypass, and these modules are often cheaper to use as a replacement then the factory modules. Yes this can also be accomplished by programing VATS out of the ECM, but if you want to hide a switch to disable starting programming it out wont work.
#7
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Member Since: Nov 2012
Location: watsontown pa
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
injectors not firing
I have found problem checked negative output pulse from distributor found that there was a pulse there then checked to see if there was a pulse at the PCM no pulse there so I ran the wire from distributor wire to connector on the PCM the result was engine started and ran perfect time and time again started and ran perfect thanks for all your help and all the members that contributed to my 87 being alive again
#8
Heel & Toe
Member Since: Jul 2018
Location: Dallas area
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I know this is an old post, but I'm also looking at installing the VATS bypass (waveform generator) on a 1987 C4. I've already done the resistor bypass at the steering column but no luck. It starts the shuts off. Could you offer more details on your solution? Thanks
#9
Safety Car
Get a pressure gauge on the fuel rail and see if the fuel pressure is holding. After that, I'd look into a noid light and check the injectors for signal and finally ignition.
Good luck.
#10
Heel & Toe
Member Since: Jul 2018
Location: Dallas area
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A little history... Completely stock car has been very well maintained. It ran and drove fine. She parked it in her garage for over a year and the gas turned bad. I cleaned the gas tank, blew out lines, replaced fuel pump and filters. It starts then dies.. No cough and sputter, just shuts off. I am not getting voltage at fuel injectors per my digital meter. No engine codes. Sparkplugs spark strong. Fuel pump kicks on with over 40+ psi. I by-passed VAT key with resistors. Jumpered the oil pressure switch (pump runs). Still no luck. I have not tried a noid light yet.