GRKLGHTNG

Hi there people, just picked up my first Vette in almost 24 yrs yesterday. She's only got 24k mi. Took it to a Vette shop to do a pre-purchase inspection. The guys there were trying to find things wrong with it, obviously to get more business. They told me that the clutch was grabbing a little high. Honestly, it feels fine to me, especially compared to two other '96's I've driven lately while looking around. I also drove a manual trans car from '93 till '08 (no, not Vettes), and the clutch feels fine on my '96 Vette. They told me that the clutch seemed ready to go at any moment, and I was told that it'd be a $2,000 job , really?! Guys, is that how much these jobs go for, or did I maybe have an invisible sign on my forehead that read "SUCKER"? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

aDigitalPhantom

If you need or want to use to use a replacement factory flywheel it can easily cost that much for dual mass flywheel alone.

GRKLGHTNG

I guess my biggest issue is that the clutch feels just fine, and I have these experts telling me that this 24k mi car needs a clutch job. I'm no ASE certified auto tech, but don't clutches wear due to usage (mi) and not age?

aDigitalPhantom

That is what I understand, but if it feels fine to you just replace it when you think you need to. It is your money after all.

volkswagens-for-life

lol the clutch engages high? They must not drive many corvettes. Does it slip at all? If not, stop worrying. It's not just going to disintegrate on you (well, I suppose if it was beat to **** it could.. but only 24k miles I doubt that). It will begin slipping at first and maybe getting pissed changing gears.

hcbph

Couple of tests we used to do was 1) block the wheels or set the parking brake, then see if the clutch slips while releasing the clutch.
2) Go in highest gear about 40 mph and punch it and see if it slips or not.
There is no adjustment on the Vette like the clutches of old. Those you had a rod you adjusted on the yoke while the Vette is all hydraulic so there's no adjustment.
Sorry but what they're telling you doesn't make a lot of sense other than as a means to pad a wallet.

TorchTarga94

Where the clutch pedal engages has nothing to do with the condition of the clutch. It is hydraulic not linkage controlled. If the pedal engaged closer to the floor then you would have a leak at the master or slave cylinder. A good way to tell how much clutch life you have is to get the car up to 20mph, shift to 4th and flog it. It will slip if bad, this will also test the condition of the opti. The car will buck if the opti is distressed.

lt4obsesses

Is the clutch bad? Hard to tell from this side of a keyboard, but probably not.

$2,000 to replace? Yes, that sounds about right for parts and labor. Maybe even a little conservative. Labor rates are about $120/hr at dealerships now. I think that books about 11 hours. The good news is that all you would really need is the clutch disk and pressure plate, the flywheel is most likely fine at 24K, a little scotchbrite and it's good as new. However, service manual calls for flywheel replacement with clutch. The DMF for these cars are no longer produced and haven't been since 2008.

GRKLGHTNG

Thanks for the feedback! This may sound really stupid, especially for someone that drove a stick for so many years, but I'm not sure if I ever experienced clutch slippage. What does it feel/sound like?

TorchTarga94

Your RPMs will sky rocket as the car just coasts.

GRKLGHTNG

Thank you! Yeah, come to think of it, I have experienced that one time with my first stick car (non-Vette). Nothing remotely like that on my new '96.

5abivt

You took it to a vette shoppe. There's your problem right there

Check your fluid, maybe flush the clutch fluid yourself or have a shoppe perform it (not that shoppe you went to.. stay the hell away from them). Sounds to me like the clutch is fine and you are right they will not wear from sitting. Assuming you don't ride the clutch or try too hard to be super smooth when leaving from a stop (or revving it a big high to start moving) your clutch can last well over 100k miles.

If I had to make a recommendation I would buy the clutch parts, and get a quote from a performance shoppe. Pay to swap the parts needed and out you go. A 'Vette shoppe' is a license to bend you over. They stock huge amounts of **** grease with moly additive.

Assuming it is a 6 speed don't forget the LT4 has a higher lamp load pressure plate than the LT1. I came across an lt4 one and sold it because I ended up re-using an LT5 pressure plate. Most aftermarket replacements have the same part number for lt1/4/5 and are made in china pressure plates. My opinion on the matter is if you ever need to change the clutch, KEEP your LT4 pressure plate maybe resurface it. Buy a quality clutch disc and reuse the OEM bearing too. The replacement clutch kits come with china bearings that generally have been a popular topic on their failure rates. If your 'vette shoppe' has an issue with that.. find another shoppe.

I applaud you for asking on the forums first. I have a friend who has been reamed for several previous jobs at a local 'vette shoppe' and hes been convinced and sweet talked by their bs every single time. ie oem LT4 lifters that they charged him $1400 for meanwhile LS7 lifters are new in box around $100.

mtwoolford

[QUOTE=GRKLGHTNG;did I maybe have an invisible sign on my forehead that read "SUCKER"? [/QUOTE]

Not really, it probably says "lollypop";

Honestly I have no idea where that shop came up with that diagnosis; especially with that low of mileage car...assuming of course that the car was driven rationally on the street.

Assuming there is no damage, clutch engagement and performance is a very personal thing...if it feels good to you...just drive it. A clutch replacement is gonna cost about the same whether it's done early...or late.

Changing out a clutch is a labor intensive and quality parts do cost more...so the $2,000.00 quote is not outta line...heck I spent $2,000 in parts alone on my 96. I just doubt that you need to spend the money right now.

a change out of the fluids and good bleeding would be advisable; the hydraulics do deteriorate over time regardless of mileage. But thats a two person job over the course of an hour or two and doesn't necessarily require the services of a shop.

GRKLGHTNG

Gentlemen, thank you all for reinforcing what I thought. I'll try to keep all the good opinions/advise in mind as I move forward with my new Vette.

Strick

Wow! you found a 96 with only 24K on it, buy it if the color and body look good. If you keep cars a long time like I tend to do, way down the road you might have to replace the clutch and flywheel. There are ways to replace the flywheel. But don't worry about it for a long time,except if you plan on using slicks and driving it like you stole it.

Oh one more thing, if it is leaking oil, like from the back of the valve covers or intake, that can cause an early clutch replacement. Check for oil leaks.

DGXR

I understand these self-adjusting hydraulic clutches typically grab toward the upper end of the pedal travel, so yours sounds normal. Also, if you want to test the clutch, I don't think low RPMs will be much of a test as most of the power and torque is produced above 3500 RPM, especially in an LT4. Put it in 3rd at about 45mph (or 4th gear at 55mph) and floor it. If the clutch slips, you will hear it and feel it.

$2000 sounds about right if they are replacing everything: flywheel, pressure plate, friction disc, pilot bearing, throwout bearing, and a fluid replacement... and a warranty. If they are surfacing and reusing the original flywheel, the job should be less.

Someone mentioned re-using the "bearing"? Not sure if they were talking about the pilot bearing or throwout bearing... if you do replace the clutch, your car has low miles so they might be OK. But give them both a very good inspection and if there is any doubt just replace them both with OEM parts while everything is apart. This goes for u-joints too. But there's no need to replace parts in good condition, just clean & lube as appropriate and reinstall.

And check the master & slave cylinders real good too... replacement of those items are not considered part of a clutch job and will be an extra cost.

mtwoolford

the stock pilot bearing in a 96 is a roller bearing; they are lubed when installed and could, I suppose dry out over time regardless of mileage;

aftermarket pilot bearing made of self lubricating bronze are popular.

70ZZ3 96LT4

I still own my 1996 LT4 that I bought new. Has 46,000 miles on it now and the clutch feels no different even after over 18 years of driving. One thing about my clutch that I do is to operate the clutch pedal without my left shoe on (size 10 !/2) because the clutch pedal is so close to the brake pedal it is so easy to get over to the right of the clutch pedal and have interference with the brake pedal. I do not mind at all operating the clutch with my left shoe/sneaker off, actually prefer doing it.
I truly believe your comment about the clutch operation being fine is what you should go with and just drive and enjoy your new 1996.

GRKLGHTNG

I did buy it, it's black on black, the body looks great! As a matter of fact, I generally do keep my cars for quite a while. I also happen to be the second owner of an '87 Monte Carlo SS Aerocoupe that I've owned for almost 24yrs.

Kinkajou

When I bought my used 94 Vette the clutch started to slip and make some weird noise when accelerating.
mechanichs said it would cost about $3000 to change the clutch. They said that they had to remove all the rear suspension.
I already had read the procedure to change the clutch and of course that is not necessary. So I decided to avoid being lazy and do it myself.
Two friends helped me when I had to remove the 140pounds manual transmission and then to put it back.
It was a time consuming job but it was worth it, everything was dissasembled and assembled carefully, and torqued everything to specs.

Because mechanics need to make money fast they usually do not care on details like that, so if you are handy with a wrench and have a couple of friends eager to help doing yourself the job is not that bad and end saving a lot of money. More important the car will be in top condition.