Dr_Shakalu

Hey everyone. Some of you have been helping me with changing my front 2 oxygen sensors in my 96 coupe auto and I greatly appreciate it. Got a code P0155 bank 2 sensor 1 front passenger side sensor. Decided to change both fronts. The driver's side was very simple. Didn't even have to warm up the car or use lubricant. It just took my about 20 minutes to replace the sensor and plug in the wires. HOWEVER, when I went to change the bad one on the passenger side, I was able to loosen the sensor easily but where do the wires go and how do you unplug the wires. I followed the wires and it seems like it goes behind the starter but I don't know where it ends. Do I have to take off my starter to get to the wiring plug or is there an easier way? Frustrated and waiting for advice. Thanks again, Ed.

PS. I think I'm going to start on the six pack that I was saving while I wait for some advice!!!

desertmike1

It's been several years sense I did mine, and I don't remember removing a starter on my 95, but I did have the heat shields removed for the knock sensors, could both the O2 sensor and knock sensor wires be hiding behind the heat shield for the passenger side knock sensor?

Dr_Shakalu

Let me take another look. Hopefully you're right about the heat shield. Frustrating that the driver's side sensor was so easy to replace.

ghoastrider1

did someone say beer? Sory, not sure about that wire but cant you look at the replacement wire to see how long/far away, the plug should be?

Dr_Shakalu

If I remember, I see the wires going behind the starter and that's it. I don't see the wires coming out the other side of the starter. Let me take off the heat shield and go from there. Thanks again to all that's helped me.

Silver96ce

Sorry to get back to you so late. I was out with the family and just got home. The wires for the passenger front sensor on mine (1996) go to a connector that is attached to the engine block a few inches above the starter.

Dr_Shakalu

Got back underneath the car and the wires do go behind the starter. Did you have to remove your starter to get to the connector? What a pain. I'm guessing you can't reach the connector from the top? I took some pictures but I don't know why I can't upload them. Thanks to you and the others who have helped me so far, Ed.

speedycat3

When i did mine, the passenger side wire went up behind the starter and was held by a plastic clip into the firewall. I tugged on the wire and the clip came off.

Silver96ce

It was two years ago but I remember I did not remove the starter. I believe I was able to reach up and with a small screwdriver I lifted the locking tab and then pushed the connector apart. It was a real pain in the rear to get to it. I removed and reinstalled the passenger cat this summer so I could drop the oil pan and was able to somehow slide the connector off the tab that attached it to the engine block. Again this was before I removed the starter as the cat is in the way of the starter. When I reinstalled the cat I cheated and zip tied the connector and wires to the ignition wire to the starter solenoid to keep them away from the cat. Just inspected it the other day and so far has been fine.

Silver96ce

I just remembered that there may be a blue locking strip on the connector - I believe I pulled it out with a long reach extended needle nose pliers.

Silver96ce

IIRC, it may be attached to the bracket holding the oil dipstick to the block. If you look at the tube from underneath you should be able to see it. If you cannot see it feel along the tube.

Dr_Shakalu

Thanks guys. I did encounter some zip ties on the driver's side sensor to keep the wires from burning. I guess from the last time the sensors were changed. On the passenger's side I can barely see a white zip tie where the sensors wires go behind the starter. Silver-you are right about the small blue zip tie holding the connections together because I also saw it when removing the driver's side sensor. I'm going to try and cut the white zip tie on the passenger's side and gently pull on the wires to see where they go and where the connector might be. Many thanks to all, Ed.

Silver96ce

Here is a link to a site with photos. Look at the fourth photo of post # 6. In that photo the oil dipstick tube was taken out and you will see a small white paper towel sticking out of the dipstick hole. A couple of inches directly above it is a small grey connector on the engine block. The O2 connector slides onto that. That is if it is correctly installed.

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...-went-out.html

Dr_Shakalu

It passed California smog test!!! Thanks to everyone who helped me on this post regarding changing the passenger side oxygen sensor. Unscrewing the sensor was really easy just like on the driver's side but I did have to unbolt my starter to get to the wire connection. I also was able to clean up all the grime and grease around that area. Was going to bring it to the smog shop right after but I checked around to see if there was anything else that might need changing before the test. Lucky I did because I had a code for the evap purge solenoid before so I checked it out. Found out it wasn't holding vacuum and also the connecting vacuum hose was old and leaking. Picked up the solenoid for $14.99 and changed it and the hose in the parking lot. Went to get the car retested and it passed with flying colors. Thanks again for everyone's help, Ed.

Silver96ce

Good to hear!

pkincy

Ca is such a problem. I have had no problem with my 93s in Nv and Az, but in California the last few years now it has been a pain. I got some advice (similar to yours....replace the O2 Sensors) so have done that on both cars now and expect they will smog a bit easier this coming summer.

Where in Kalifornia?

Dr_Shakalu

I'm in San Francisco. I was almost tempted to bring my car to someone I know so he can "pass" my car. Then I could install some long tube headers. I believe the California smog laws are just for profit. Companies have to spend so much money so they can get a Carb # for their products that most don't. If it's just about what's in a cars emmissions, it shouldn't matter what parts to use as long as the emmission's meets the numbers.

pkincy

LTs are not a good idea. I have had 2 of my 5 cars directed to those special Smog stations for their most recent Smogs. Forget what they are for. And they know an aftermarket part when you see it.

STAR stations is the name I believe. And they go over the car with a fine toothed comb and then do a normal sniffer smog test on it.

Dr_Shakalu

I know that the Star stations will check everything especially long tubes. I was saying I know someone who will "pass" me no matter what. Not legal, but was tempting.

pkincy

I say again, 2 of my 5 cars have been directed to STAR stations for their biannual smog testing.

So you 'friend' would not be an option if that is on your registration renewal.

There is an algorithm they use to choose cars/trucks for STAR smog. Mine were my 93 Camaro, and my 2000 Silverado Pick UP.