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I have another thread going on the transmission, but I wanted to post a new thread with questions about the valve body rebuild.
I have removed and cleaned all of the valves from the valve body. I inspected them and they look good (no breakage, no maring, etc.)
I did not remove the TV valve. When I tried to pull up on the roll pin that holds it, it was much stiffer than all of the other roll pins. I thought that maybe I should ask the forum goers first, if when rebuilding a valve body, do they typically remove the TV valve also??
I also noticed that there is another roll pin on the bottom side near the TV valve. Do both of these come out if I am to remove the TV valve? Thanks for any help.
3-4 valve was a pain to get out, I finally slid some washers down a channel where the valve was apart, and was able to use a flat head to press on the washer and push the valve top out.
Here are all the valves, except for the TV valve and the 3-4 valve. I made sure to clean them with only solvent (brake cleaner) and compressed air, as described in the manual. I think that you are not supposed to wipe them with anything because of the danger of getting fibers on the valves. Not positive on this though.
Just brake cleaner and compressed air is the best. I've built a lot of transmissions for myself and friends, when I first started I used towels. On the first filter change there was always little cotton ***** in the pan
As for the tv valve...pull the pin out, avoid messing with it too much or you will never get it out. I have measured very carefully and drilled the bottom of the vb opposite of the pin and pushed it out, then plugged the hole. Thats a nitemare you really don't want to do.
And thats only when I really wanted to install the TransGo parts. If you're reusing the stock stuff just clean it in place and make sure it operates smoothly dry. If it moves free dry it will move free oiled for sure.
I used a magnetic pickup tool to pull the valves out of the valve body.
I suggest smoothing the sharp edges of the valves with emery cloth so they move more easily. They tend to bind in the valve body otherwise. That's why they are so hard to get out.
I used a magnetic pickup tool to pull the valves out of the valve body.
I suggest smoothing the sharp edges of the valves with emery cloth so they move more easily. They tend to bind in the valve body otherwise. That's why they are so hard to get out.
I think if there is some research done, the major transmission and hydraulics sites will tell you the sharp edges are there for a purpose. They act as a cleaner in order to STOP the valves from sticking.
Beautiful, that's exactly what I wanted to hear . Thanks for the help.
I am thinking the rebuild kit will include new springs, so once that gets here I will reassemble everything.
I've never seen a rebuild kit that included all of the valve body springs. They are calibrated for each specific application so they usually get reused. Only shift kit type packages come with only a few certain springs.
Having said that, don't spray the springs and wash the color off because if you do it's a bit tougher to get it back together right. (unless you lay it out like you have it).
I've never seen a rebuild kit that included all of the valve body springs. They are calibrated for each specific application so they usually get reused. Only shift kit type packages come with only a few certain springs.
Having said that, don't spray the springs and wash the color off because if you do it's a bit tougher to get it back together right. (unless you lay it out like you have it).
I thought about that last night, and checked my rebuild kit, and it didn't come with springs, so I put everything back together last night, then put the valve body in the tranny, and today I put the tranny back in. I will detail it over in my main post.
As for pulling the valves out with a magnet, that would have been awesome, but I tried it, and my valves were aluminum so the magnet wouldn't pull them.
Also something I noticed, on the other valve bodies that were differrent then my own was the TV valve. On the other valve bodies the tv valve had two 2 springs and a plunger, and on mine it only had the plunger and 1 spring. I confirmed that mine was correct through my 700r4 manual and my FSM.
I think if there is some research done, the major transmission and hydraulics sites will tell you the sharp edges are there for a purpose. They act as a cleaner in order to STOP the valves from sticking.
Do you have a link to this information?
My trans used to hang in 1st gear on hard acceleration. I would get to the red line and it would not shift into 2nd until I backed off on the accelerator. After I took the sharp edges off the valve in the governor it shifted as it should.
I thought about that last night, and checked my rebuild kit, and it didn't come with springs, so I put everything back together last night, then put the valve body in the tranny, and today I put the tranny back in. I will detail it over in my main post.
As for pulling the valves out with a magnet, that would have been awesome, but I tried it, and my valves were aluminum so the magnet wouldn't pull them.
Also something I noticed, on the other valve bodies that were differrent then my own was the TV valve. On the other valve bodies the tv valve had two 2 springs and a plunger, and on mine it only had the plunger and 1 spring. I confirmed that mine was correct through my 700r4 manual and my FSM.
TV valves on the 700 have been so much trouble over the years that different solutions have been put forth by different companies. One of these was to install a small spring at the end of the valve to help it return. This could be your case.
My trans used to hang in 1st gear on hard acceleration. I would get to the red line and it would not shift into 2nd until I backed off on the accelerator. After I took the sharp edges off the valve in the governor it shifted as it should.
Anyone know if I can run just headers and cats? Will it harm the engine?
Go ahead, nothing will happen to the engine. "Backpressure" is an old wives tale that applies only to 2 cycle engines. Otherwise, every fuel dragster in the country would be doing damage to their engine.
Tranny is in and the car is running like a beast!!!
Shift points are correct (I adjusted the ASR assembly according to the FSM) with the specialized tools of a 1/8" drill bit and torque wrench lol).
The car freaking RUMBLES with just the cats on, its too much for me to handle, so I will put the old exhaust back on next weekend.
One of the tranny cooler lines has a slight leak (surprisingly enough its not the one that I broke and repaired). Its the bottom one luckily, so I can get to it. I think I need to unscrew it and put teflon tape on it and get it back in.
I have to go out of town for work this week, so I will do all of that next weekend.
One thing that doesn't sound right though....
When I get on it and the tranny downshifts, or when I am on it and it is up shifting, right when it shifts, I hear a small noise (not super loud) but it almost sounds like something rattling around in the tranny pan????
Other than that noise, everything works awesome.
I will post an update when I get the exhaust on next weekend, and see if I can hear anything more identifying with the exhaust on. For all I know it could be and exhaust bracket or something clanging around under there....
Thanks to everyone for all of your help and input.
I am going to take a stab at rebuilding the old transmission, I will post a new thread for that, when I begin.
Congratulations! All that hard work was worth it. This months Hot Rod magazine has a comprehensive article on 700R4 and 4L60 and 4L60E refits. Some interesting information.
12-05-2014, 07:31 PM
1992 Corvette 4L60/700R4 Valve Body Rebuild
. Thanks for the help. 
