Help with non working instrument cluster
#1
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Help with non working instrument cluster
This car is a 1986
I need a direction on this.
First off I've done all the searches on this and even went to the batee.com site to check out fixes there.
Here is what I've done so far:
-replaced the gauge cluster with a rebuilt one. The original gauge cluster was not working and had a cracked lcd so I got a rebuilt one. The new one still doesn't work. I got the car as a project that had been sitting a while and the gauge cluster has never worked since I got the car.
-checked the cluster, tail, lcd, and lps fuses and they are all good and have power.
-spliced into the D1, D3, and B1 cluster grounds and ran the wires to a good ground.
I'm still dark. I get no info and have no backlight. What am I missing here? Is there something in the column I should be checking? Man I hate electrical problems...
I need a direction on this.
First off I've done all the searches on this and even went to the batee.com site to check out fixes there.
Here is what I've done so far:
-replaced the gauge cluster with a rebuilt one. The original gauge cluster was not working and had a cracked lcd so I got a rebuilt one. The new one still doesn't work. I got the car as a project that had been sitting a while and the gauge cluster has never worked since I got the car.
-checked the cluster, tail, lcd, and lps fuses and they are all good and have power.
-spliced into the D1, D3, and B1 cluster grounds and ran the wires to a good ground.
I'm still dark. I get no info and have no backlight. What am I missing here? Is there something in the column I should be checking? Man I hate electrical problems...
#2
Melting Slicks
Do you have the dash pad off?
#3
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Yes sir. I've got the dash completely apart.
Also, I cant get power to the D16 or C16 terminals where they plug into the cluster which should power when the ignition is on. According to the wiring diagram these wires run to the 5 amp CLSTR fuse which I do have power to when the ignition is on. Is there another fuse or relay in between the fuse and the cluster?
Also, I cant get power to the D16 or C16 terminals where they plug into the cluster which should power when the ignition is on. According to the wiring diagram these wires run to the 5 amp CLSTR fuse which I do have power to when the ignition is on. Is there another fuse or relay in between the fuse and the cluster?
#4
Race Director
It sounds like your back lights are not working. When it's dark and you turn on the parking lights, can you control the brightness of the back lighting on the radio by turning the headlight ****?
#5
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I think the issue is from no power to the C16 or D16 terminal which isn't powering up the cluster. I'm tempted to try running a jumper wire to these from an ignition power source to see if it will power up that way.
#6
Burning Brakes
Yes sir. I've got the dash completely apart.
Also, I cant get power to the D16 or C16 terminals where they plug into the cluster which should power when the ignition is on. According to the wiring diagram these wires run to the 5 amp CLSTR fuse which I do have power to when the ignition is on. Is there another fuse or relay in between the fuse and the cluster?
Also, I cant get power to the D16 or C16 terminals where they plug into the cluster which should power when the ignition is on. According to the wiring diagram these wires run to the 5 amp CLSTR fuse which I do have power to when the ignition is on. Is there another fuse or relay in between the fuse and the cluster?
#7
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I can't find a connector. C16 and D16 look like they connect right to the fuse according to the diagram. The fuse has power but the wires are dead.
See if I am reading this diagram right.
See if I am reading this diagram right.
#8
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Update.
The C16 and D16 wires are definitely the problem. I ran a jumper wire from an ignition power source with an inline 5 amp fuse to those wires and now it works. I must have a break in one of those lines but I'll be darned if I can find it. Now it powers up fine. It's sort of a redneck fix and I hate to leave it this way but I really don't want to tear apart the whole dash to find the problem. I was just hoping there was some smoking gun that you guys see all the time with this.
The C16 and D16 wires are definitely the problem. I ran a jumper wire from an ignition power source with an inline 5 amp fuse to those wires and now it works. I must have a break in one of those lines but I'll be darned if I can find it. Now it powers up fine. It's sort of a redneck fix and I hate to leave it this way but I really don't want to tear apart the whole dash to find the problem. I was just hoping there was some smoking gun that you guys see all the time with this.
#9
Le Mans Master
ONCE. I have ran across a fuse box problem like your..once! Twas a problem with the connectors on the out going side of the fuse (S) to where I was checking. Might need a new fuse box or connectors.
#10
Race Director
I have seen bad connections on the back of the fuse block. It snaps into the dash so you have to get access to the back so you can release the catches.
#11
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You nailed it. That's exactly what it was. It looks like someone was playing around in there before and there was a connection that was pulled loose where the wires attach to the fuse box.
#12
Melting Slicks
Glad this is solved and you worked it right. Nice work!!