lt1 id ...Help..
02-17-2015, 07:51 PM
#2
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
F-body LT1. 275 hp as installed in an F-bod with the cast manifolds and single exhaust. 2 bolt mains is the only meaningful diff between the 'Vette LT1 and the F-bod LT1...and that isn't very "meaningful".
02-17-2015, 07:55 PM
#3
Pro
Thread Starter
Anyway to tell what year ? I thought the groove across the front of the intake was vette specific.
02-17-2015, 08:29 PM
#4
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
IDK the year....maybe someone else can give you an idea.
Clues that it's an F-bod; exhaust manifolds, Fuel lines on the driver's side (they're on the passenger's side in a 'Vette, and the stamped valve covers. All F-body pieces.
Aluminum heads tell you that it's not from a Caprice/Roadmaster.
Clues that it's an F-bod; exhaust manifolds, Fuel lines on the driver's side (they're on the passenger's side in a 'Vette, and the stamped valve covers. All F-body pieces.
Aluminum heads tell you that it's not from a Caprice/Roadmaster.
02-17-2015, 09:29 PM
#5
Race Director
There are 3 different LT1 intake manifolds, 92-93 LT1, 94-97 LT1 and 96 LT4. The 94-97 LT1 and LT4 intake manifolds appear the same from above, all LT4 intakes are powder coated red from factory, but the difference is in the intake ports. LT4 intake ports are raised, and use different cylinder heads and intake port gaskets. The 92-93 intake manifolds do not have the fuel rail crossover in the front like the 94-97 intakes, however the 94-97 intakes can use the 92-93 fuel rails.
This will give you more info:
http://www.nookandtranny.com/Info_LT1.html
02-17-2015, 09:33 PM
#6
02-17-2015, 09:58 PM
#7
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2002
Location: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
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FYI all the "B" body cars had iron heads - both the 350" and 265" motors.
Nasty Z28 says V1201WHA would be a Flint MI made block on december 1, but whoooh, the WHA is for a '94 impala or buick. U got a "B" body block with alum LT1 heads on it my friend.
Gen I sbc had a date code cast into the block on the pass side rear of block just behind the head. Dont know if true for the GEN II blocks but u can look.
Hope this helps ya.
Nasty Z28 says V1201WHA would be a Flint MI made block on december 1, but whoooh, the WHA is for a '94 impala or buick. U got a "B" body block with alum LT1 heads on it my friend.
Gen I sbc had a date code cast into the block on the pass side rear of block just behind the head. Dont know if true for the GEN II blocks but u can look.
Hope this helps ya.
02-19-2015, 06:33 PM
#8
Pro
Thread Starter
I have a 94 vette . Would this engine work as a good builder for my car. I want to start building the engine now and do a swap when its done . That way it puts down time to a minimum.
02-22-2015, 08:08 PM
#10
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
It could work, but so could an LT1 bare block depending on what you're going to do.
02-22-2015, 10:03 PM
#11
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2002
Location: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Posts: 7,098
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Well it is a match. No telling what the internals condition are in. But it will need to use the "late" pin drive opti-spark distributor with that timing cover. No big deal as its an inprovement over the early shaft drive opti and thats what i have in my '94 now. U will need an different wiring adapter for the opti and need to plumb in some tubing for the opti "vent". Again no big deal as one end takes suction on the inlet elbow and the other discharges to the intake manifold through a tee.
Congrats as u will have fun rebuilding from a core block and adding as u go/can afford. One thing pecular to the GEN II block is a ball installed in an oil galley through the main cap (pass side i recall) that really needs to come out when tanking/cleaning the block. And most deffinatly has to go back in before assembly. U nock i out with a long thin punch/drift from the top of the block at the "china wall".
Good luck and let us know if we can help along the way. The small block chevy has nearly endless options and interchanges possible so u have plenty of fun ahead just deciding what u build. Stroker cranks are nearly as cheep as a turned down & polished original crank and rotating kits have it all figured out for u while budget priced and hard to beat. Check out Flantlander racing for some awesome pricing.
But first get that block inspected and cleaned.
Congrats as u will have fun rebuilding from a core block and adding as u go/can afford. One thing pecular to the GEN II block is a ball installed in an oil galley through the main cap (pass side i recall) that really needs to come out when tanking/cleaning the block. And most deffinatly has to go back in before assembly. U nock i out with a long thin punch/drift from the top of the block at the "china wall".
Good luck and let us know if we can help along the way. The small block chevy has nearly endless options and interchanges possible so u have plenty of fun ahead just deciding what u build. Stroker cranks are nearly as cheep as a turned down & polished original crank and rotating kits have it all figured out for u while budget priced and hard to beat. Check out Flantlander racing for some awesome pricing.
But first get that block inspected and cleaned.
