Susie Pruett Keats

I need some help my 1990 just had the block re-done and we got the motor put all back together and now it will not start, it wants to start but it is flooding real bad, it has spark, it has fuel pressure, all the plug ins are plugged in, I had no problems before the motor was pulled with it starting, the injectors were changed about a year and half ago, just frustrated any help will be appreciated

VetosVet

What's the fuel pressure? Is the timing set correctly?

Susie Pruett Keats

It has plenty of pressure the timing is set it wants to start but will not I was standing behind it when it was being turned over and the gas fumes coming out of the exhaust was enough to give you a headache

Joe C

let's start with the basics - FUEL - spark - timing.

you didn't answer the question. how many PSI in "plenty?" before anyone can help you troubleshoot this, we need to know a few basic things.

- that's my gut feeling. not a fuel issue, but a timing problem, and not a "degrees BTDC" thing, but distributor indexing. almost sounds like the distributor's in bass-ackwards.

Susie Pruett Keats

Sorry My internet has been acting up the pressure it is getting is between 38 and 40 according to the tester, pulled the spark plugs and they are completely dry now it seems like it not getting any fuel at all, replaced the oil sending unit, it just will not start, the motor was just put back in a few days ago and it will not fire it is getting spark but no go just baffled. Also this car ran fine before the motor came out just wondering if the injectors are spraying?? is there any way to test them? I have a 30 second video on what the car is doing but I do not think I can upload here.

Joe C

not doubting you, but how do you know you're getting spark? did you visually verify this?

when you installed and set the distributor, explain exactly the steps you went through to index the distributor and set the static timing. did you do anything to the distributor itself - other than cap and rotor. verify the plug wires (firing) order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. if you are indeed getting spark, I have to assume all other wiring to the distributor is correct.

seems odd, yesterday, the engine is flooding, and today nothing - ??? are you somewhat holding fuel pressure - that is, key on, you should have around 42 lbs for a couple seconds, a slight drop to 36-38 lbs. is the pressure somewhat holding, or is there a slow or fast drop off?

Susie Pruett Keats

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v...59301518532057
This is the link for the video on what my car is doing
I was just informed yesterday tried to start the car again and shut the key off and heard a buzzing, like something was running, checked the oil sending unit wiggled the wires and it stopped, wiggled them again the buzzing started again, the oil gauge in the car was stuck on 60 with the car off, changed out the oil sending unit, oil pressure gauge in the car will go up and then back down a little but back at 0 when off but with the key on when you go out to turn the distributor the electric fuel pump goes on, if you turn it again it goes off,,uugghhh

Joe C

referring to the video - sure sounds like it's a timing issue. again, how did you set (index) the distributor, and set the static timing?

this I don't understand -
- ???

VetosVet

... you need to pull the drivers front spark plug. that is #1 cyl. Put your thumb over the hole and tap the motor over until it pushes are past your thumb. Stop and turn the motor by hand until the timing mark is at 6* BTDC. Now you will have #1 at it's base timing position. Then pop the distributor cap off and see if the rotor is pointed toward the number one spark tower. If it is then be sure you have the wires positioned correctly. My guess is the rotor points somewhere else. I like to put number one where the manual has it located. That may require that you remove the distributor and reorient it and the rotor. To do that mark number one one the dist with a sharpie when the distributor is out. Point the rotor at this mark. No rotate it a few more degrees (almost at the preceding tower). do your best to line up the oil pump slot to the distributor drive with a long screwdriver. Now stab the distributor into the hole. If it goes al the way in, the rotor will turn to line up with #1. If it doesn't line up you may need to do it again: pull it out align the oil pump drive and stab as many times until you are satisfied that it is right on. Then route your plug wires starting with number one and follow the firing order around the distributor in a clockwise fashion.
I would lay money on it working after that. Be sure it's set at number one every step of the way.

Susie Pruett Keats

Okay this car is driving us crazy about 2 weeks ago when we first tried to start the car we discovered that 4 push rods bent on the passenger side the lifter of one of the push rods was also damaged, and the car did not even run, replaced all pushrods with new ones along with a new roller lifter, today got the car to start for about 30 seconds and died it would not restart due to it being flooded, went back to it a few hours later and discovered yet again #6 cylinder the push rod was bent again, these heads were rebuilt 5 years ago there is no real miles on these heads, do not understand why the pushrods are bending, all we did was have the bottom end rebuilt, new bearings, new crank, used the same pistons with new rings and a new timing chain, used my original cam there was nothing wrong it. so why are the push rods bending???? Since this motor has been put back in it has only ran a total of 30 seconds and that was today.

c4cruiser

Were the marks on the crank gear and the cam gear indexed correctly? It may also be that the timing chain has slipped a few teeth. Bent pushrods are usually caused by piston tops hitting valves. Could also be that the valve adjustment was not done correctly. Tighten the adjusting nut too much and the same thing can happen. I would bet that if the heads were pulled, there will be damage on the piston tops. And possible damage to the valves.

I would be asking a lot of questions of whoever did the engine assembly.

C409

........ Its real easy to mis-adjust the valves since its done "by feel" ... not everyone gets it ... try adjusting by tightening the rocker nuts until there is ZERO lash ... then tighten one full turn more ... turning the engine in its regular rotation ... clockwise when looking at the front of the engine ... adjust the intake valve when the exhaust just starts to open ... then turn the engine til the intake valve closes almost all the way , then adjust the exhaust valve ... remember to use the zero lash method and NOT by spinning the pushrod ... MANY fresh engines have been hurt by mis-adjusting the valves ... check the lash by wiggling the pushrod up and down and stop as soon as you get no wiggle ......

Joe C

after reading much of the OP's posts, I personally don't have a warm-fuzzy feeling that all the static, internal, timing and indexing were done properly. bent push rods would have me concerned. I would drop back ten and fully evaluate the engine at this point, from the crank-cam sprocket indexing, to potential piston damage. as c4cruiser said, "I would be asking a lot of questions of whoever did the engine assembly"

as far as the valve adjustment, I use the FSM valve-cylinder sequence, and set zero lash by using my .0015 feeler gauge method -

**************************************** *****************

following the procedure in the FSM - with the engine in the #1 firing position, or TDC, adjust the following:

exhaust -- 1, 3, 4, 8
intake -- 1, 2, 5, 7

now here's what i do for valve adjustment: using a .0015" feeler gauge, between the rocker arm and valve stem, slowly tighten the adjusting nut until the feeler gauge "grabs". at that point, you should be within .001" of zero lash. then adjust the nut 1/2 turn (or 3/4 turn). this method seems a little more exact, or precise than the "rotate the push rod while turning the adjusting nut" thing. it should result in a more even adjustment across the board.

now, rotate the crank 1 revolution or 360 degrees, and adjust the following:

exhaust -- 2, 5, 6, 7
intake -- 3, 4, 6, 8

there is approximately .060 plunger movement within the lifter, and because of the thread pitch of the rocker arm stud, 1/2 turn should be equivalent to approximately .030", thus mid range (cold). 1/2 turn is my personal setting, sometimes i'll do 3/4 turn. I've read guys setting them anywhere from 1/4 to 1 turn.

VetosVet

What ever did you find out was wrong with your motor?

Cliff Harris

Sounds like the rocker arms are adjusted too tight. You need to do a compression check to rule that out.