gerardvg

Hi

I have replaced the rear hub/wheel bearings recently and have been looking for the front hub/ wheel bearings to fit the NON ABS 1984-85 corvettes. The usual parts list 86 onwards?

The only ones i have come across have the abs ring, i am wondering if this will fit the 85 that do not have abs?

Has anyone recently replaced the front hub bearing on an 84 or 85 corvette? what did you use? did the steering knuckle have the abs ring or was it a non abs hub bearing?

Many thanks

HlhnEast

Yes, I believe that the ABS ones will work. I am pretty sure they do not make non ABS ones anymore. I have also read the gear can be removed. Definitely check carefully before beating on it tho to verify.

Dont ya just love all the one year only deals with the '85?? I always seem to get the unusual vehicle, year or model they either dont make any aftermarket stuff for or its hard to find and expensive.

gerardvg

Thanks for the info, i will pull one of the front hub bearings off to make sure before ordering a couple. The shipping to Australia is a killer if you do it twice.

Yes like the 1985 only burn of module, that is already starting to become rare and priced as such lol, i have a good spare that i picked up real cheap

Saw the writing on the wall for the burn of module many years ago, check the used one for US $249 The price for them just keep on going up.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/C4-CORVETTE-Mass-AirFlow-Sensor-Burn-Off-Module-/121585023252?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c4f083914

WVZR-1

The service hub/bearing for '84 to '90 is a single part number and has been for a number of years. You will have no issues. You won't need to remove the ABS reluctor/ring either. The spindle/knuckle had a bore added to it to accommodate the WSS.

I have never investigated but for an '84/'85 I believe you could possibly use the later F-body and just bore a hole in the back-side of the knuckle to provide clearance for the later integral design. I might study this in greater depth. The bolts that mount the hub/bearing is the same and the mounting pattern is the same also I'm quite sure.

Here is the bore that you would need to accomplish. I've got spindles for dimensions:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/91-92-93-94-95-96-CHEVY-CORVETTE-DRIVER-SIDE-FRONT-SPINDLE-KNUCKLE-/400889219231?fits=Year%3A1991%7CModel%3ACorvette&hash=item5d56dc089f&vxp=mtr

WVZR-1

I see no reason the F-body can't be used. The mounting flange diameter and offset of course is a match because we know it fit's the '91+. The additional bore required to allow clearance isn't quite the diameter of the mounting pilot so it would be smaller in diameter (though not by much) but the material thickness of the earlier spindle/knuckle isn't substantial anyway.

I don't have one off of a spindle/knuckle that I can confirm the secondary diameter required. The best I can measure of a '91 mounted a secondary bore of 2.25"/57.15mm if centered would be sufficient.

"gerardvg" - were I in your location and it were possible to get your hands on a salvage/used '93 - '02 Camaro/Firebird bearing I'd measure the secondary dimension required to allow the hub/bearing to pass through.

For a reference number you could use the Timken 513090 to see if that's maybe available in your country.

I believe if you plotted the center correctly the 2.25 bore could be done with a metal cutting hole saw and there would be no reason to even remove the spindle/knuckle.

Have I lost my mind? I've been told that many times but I'd investigate it if I needed bearings and circumstances dictated it.

******************
Perhaps someone with an old '84/'85 hub/bearing in the stash could take it to the parts store and stand it side-by-side and compare to the 513090 here in the US. I would think the F-body to be on many/most store shelves.

aDigitalPhantom

If you believe the data on NAPA's website both the PGB PBR930186 (97 Camaro) and the PGB PBR930023 (87 Corvette) have the dimensions
Hub Pilot Diameter : 71.75 mm
Mounting Bolt to Bolt Dimension : 100.5 mm

The only major difference I see is the abs sensor used.

WVZR-1

I did my comparisons using Timken product specifications and measuring with a vernier best I could on an assembled spindle/knuckle from a '93. I was able to compare the flange offset which would assure rotor/caliper alignment so there should be no brake component problems.

I'm quite confident with my work but I don't have the old parts to actually do the side-by-side.

aDigitalPhantom

I was not saying anything about what you said. I was just providing another source of information. I don't see why you need to act high and mighty over it.

WVZR-1

I wasn't



BUT I had seen the dimensions you mentioned in a few places and they made absolutely no sense. The mounting flange is rectangular and I couldn't make the 100.5 match anything and I also found that dimension mentioned as 100.6 a couple of times.

I believe I've resolved that and that dimension is the circle diameter that is used for the three holes in the flange that you would insert a socket through to tighten the four mounting bolts.

The flange on a '93 I have here is maybe 80.2 X 63.2 approximately. I can't get to it well enough to actually pinpoint centers. If someone has a '90 or earlier they could confirm the rectangular mounting dimensions, then it's pretty well set that the swap could be accomplished using the reversing of the bolt insertion.

rklessdriver

I have a few NIB 93-2002 F Body wheel brg at home. It's an SKF but the measurements should be the same as any of them. I bought a couple sets to keep as back ups for my 92..... would be nice to know that they will fit the 84 also if I need them.

I know for a fact they fit 91-96 Corvettes as I have a set on the 92 presently.

I'll be happy to measure my back ups with my dial calipers. Just let me know what is in question about the fittament to early cars.

Is it the OD of the HUB where it mounts through the hole in the spindle?
Will

WVZR-1

The only dimension I couldn't confirm was the rectangular mounting of the flange to the spindle/knuckle on the '90 and earlier. I don't have a bearing or a spindle/knuckle here. The dimension I posted 80.2 X 63.2 needs to match the four bolt mounting on the '84 spindle/knuckle.

You could measure the secondary diameter of the F-body bearings you have to confirm the bore of the hole that will be required in the spindle/knuckle to allow the pass through of the sensor. You couldn't cut off the sensor, that would make the assembly no longer watertight. I measured 2.25" maybe required.

aDigitalPhantom

Can you measure the mounting bolts diagonally?

PS
According to the 80.2x63.2 it should be around 102.

WVZR-1

The 80.2 X 63.2 diagonally is just short of 100 but we can't use a diagonal dimension by itself to confirm. You would need all 3 dimensions to match for confirmation. I think it should be very easy to confirm the 4 point as length width and a random check of the diagonal will be just short of 100. I didn't plot it but best I can reach the mounting of the hub/bearing mounting on my spindle/knuckle the very near but short of 100 would be correct.

I really believe for the '84 & '85 it's a fix and if you had an earlier than '90 with BROKEN ABS and it didn't concern you then you could also use the F-body option.

aDigitalPhantom

According to Google it is about 102.11
It also just happens to be close to the 100.5.

Your also not leave much (if any room) for human error.

WVZR-1

You're right I just used the verniers as best I could with everything bolted up and I don't use GOOGLE for a calculator, human error yep very likely but you still can't use a diagonal except for a possible validation of established four corner dimension. The 100.5 I believe is the diameter of the circle of the three holes - on that I'd wager. It might also justify the 100.6 I found. Someone rounds up, someone else rounds down. When I mentioned very near 100 but short that was also done with a vernier with bolts of unequal length, a bracket attached to hold the ABS wire. I believe

We're good - I mentioned also in a previous post a side-by-side for comparison that I couldn't accomplish.

Someone installs one and it works it's all just conversation - if someone attempts and it doesn't/won't you can come back and point out my worthless comments and thoughts. I did say I believe and I do.

I actually investigated the thought for the OP based on his location, the fact that he had an '85 and maybe - just maybe the F-body bearing might be more readily available in his country (saving him shipping) and maybe even a little less expensive. The savings if you're in the US might be marginal and I guess would depend on the vendor you chose. His country it's time and maybe money!!

I saw a fellow at the gym the other day - His t-shirt "I'm right 97% of the time and the other 4% of the time - WHO CARES"

The side-by-side and confirming also the dimension from the hub mounting flange to the mating surface for the rotor should be done as a "hands on" with nothing assumed. It is the Internet!!

aDigitalPhantom

If you saying they might work which is what I am saying why are you arguing about it? The only reason I used that link is because I cant explain the math very well, and the other pages 5+ of them all say the same thing.

rklessdriver

I'm measuring 80.28mmX61.58mm and 100.76mm diagonally.

The round back piece that sticks thru the spindle measures 71.68mm and the connecter for the abs won't be a problem as its flush with the edge.

Offset is 69.04mm from the outside wheel/rotor flange to the hub mounting flange.
Will

WVZR-1

Thank you Will

So the thing I maybe over-speculated on was the smaller diameter maybe for the pass-through. It appears that needs to be very close to a consistent single dimension all the way through.

Do you agree that it appears promising?

rklessdriver

Seems promising.

I should be over working on the 84 tomorrow after work.

I'll see what I can measure on it.
Will

WVZR-1

Hey Will,

Consider this. The hub/bearing is a fit (confirmed) BUT if the ABS sensor is knocked off of the F-body hub/bearing and the cavity in the '84 - '85 knuckle/spindle is 1/2 filled with 90W gear oil I understand the bearings actually last very well on a track car. The spindle/knuckle I understand doesn't require the large bored hole I mentioned BUT the large bore would work also and use the F-body as I mentioned complete.

I would think the '84 - '85 spindle/knuckle could be drilled/tapped and a threaded plug inserted to fill with 90W. Seal the hub/bearing to the spindle/knuckle with GMS/RTV when installing. The '90 and earlier knuckle/spindle also uses an o-ring seal to the hub/bearing to complete the sealing solution.

What do you think?

OP - I'd think you're talented enough to pull this off. If you need some information PM me or use my email.


#67 in this image is the original o-ring: