How to remove pipe plug in driver side head
04-01-2015, 04:08 AM
#62
- we went from a simple question to a pissin' contest -
04-01-2015, 02:20 PM
#63
Pro
04-01-2015, 02:23 PM
#64
Pro
You could also weld in a grade 8 bolt that has been cut short so the head is about 1/4" space under the head of the bolt to the plug. The heat will help loosen the threads. OH...don't forget to disconnect the battery before welding!
Before this, I would put a mixture of 50% Acetone and 50% trans fluid mixed o the plug to penetrate the threads. I would put this on at half hour intervals and leave over night. Then weld in the bolt and have at it.
Before this, I would put a mixture of 50% Acetone and 50% trans fluid mixed o the plug to penetrate the threads. I would put this on at half hour intervals and leave over night. Then weld in the bolt and have at it.
I think this is my best course of action now, before I resort to removing the head and doing this on a bench.
04-04-2015, 01:24 AM
#65
Melting Slicks
is there enough room to get an oxy acetylene torch with a small tip to heat that plug? Or at least a propane torch? (enough) heat will destroy that steel to aluminum corrosion and liberal application of the penetrating fluid of your choice(bee's wax, PB Blast, acetone/trans fluid, etc) should do it; also when you get the plug hot, take an ice cube and push it right into the plug; the heat, cold shock, and penetrating fluid will break that plug free.
04-04-2015, 05:53 AM
#66
is there enough room to get an oxy acetylene torch with a small tip to heat that plug? Or at least a propane torch? (enough) heat will destroy that steel to aluminum corrosion and liberal application of the penetrating fluid of your choice(bee's wax, PB Blast, acetone/trans fluid, etc) should do it; also when you get the plug hot, take an ice cube and push it right into the plug; the heat, cold shock, and penetrating fluid will break that plug free.
04-06-2015, 08:26 PM
#67
Drifting
Here is $.02 more. Try the other head between 7 & 8. That is how i did it on one of my cars. Just run the wire around and hide it in the loom. Good luck.
04-06-2015, 10:39 PM
#68
04-07-2015, 05:11 PM
#70
Pro
A chip can only control the main engine fan thru the ECM that runs off the coolant temp sensor. I already have one to do that.
This plug is where the OEM auxiliary fan temp switch is located and would control the OEM auxiliary pusher fan located in front of the OEM A/C condenser and radiator setup. It helps to cool the engine bay but more importantly the auxiliary pusher fan helps tremendously with cooling the condenser is hot summer months when the A/C is working at full blast.
This plug is where the OEM auxiliary fan temp switch is located and would control the OEM auxiliary pusher fan located in front of the OEM A/C condenser and radiator setup. It helps to cool the engine bay but more importantly the auxiliary pusher fan helps tremendously with cooling the condenser is hot summer months when the A/C is working at full blast.
04-20-2015, 07:34 PM
#71
Instructor
On my 92 I did some grinding on a 3/8 ext. Like I have heard mention. No one mentioned tighting the plug-- just a little when it moves thats enough to break it loose. After tighting a little the plug backed right out. It worked like a charm for me.
Good Luck
Good Luck
04-20-2015, 08:12 PM
#72
the last thing I did was reverse the direction of the impact gun and gave it a quick burst - you know, right to tight. after that quick burst, back to reverse-removal mode, and the bolt came out on the next try slicker than s**t!" now maybe that helped, maybe not -
04-21-2015, 01:08 PM
#74
Melting Slicks
if it's an access issue, can you just undo the motor mounts and jack the engine up a bit? you know, like we used to have to do on factory V8 Monza's to change spark plugs ?
04-21-2015, 01:36 PM
#75
We ain't seen the OP for nearly two weeks. I thought he'd be back to say DONE and probably with his resolution to the issue.
Hole saw through the "wheel-house". Sealed with cap-plugs.
Hole saw through the "wheel-house". Sealed with cap-plugs.
04-28-2015, 07:21 PM
#76
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I used a ground down ratchet adapter to remove mine, although I have iron heads which won't corrode a steel plug. As for using the "correct tool".... that method leaves you with the exact same tool as what is intended, a snugger fit if anything. Probably better, since most of those locally available specialty tools are going to be autozone china brand. Did you start with a quality brand tool, domestic at least? Impact is always better odds if you can get in there, but impact ratchets are generally pretty weak. And probably no room to get in there and knock it loose with breaker bar + 3lb sledge.