Nu-Bee LT4 clutch question
03-29-2015, 08:51 PM
#1
Heel & Toe
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Nu-Bee LT4 clutch question
New guy here. 
Bought a '96 LT4 with 93k miles, clutch slips in high gear when ya give 'er the gas. I've worked on my own cars for 40-something years, not an "expert", but have been on the buissness end of a wrench a time or 2 (and make my living as a machinist). So, I am familiar with a bad clutch. Have been reading thru the countless threads on this dual mass flywheel till my head spins.
I see there's a few work arounds, in the worst case scenerio that my flywheel is toast, to go to a "standard" flywheel. So, here's a simple question:
anyone used this kit?
http://www.phoenixfriction.com/p-409...lt4-11-in.aspx
Not REAL concerned if the componants will last another 93k miles. I read here alot of the made-in-china crap is crap, and assume for this price, that's what this kit probably has. But I broke the bank just buying this car, and just need to make it roadworthy for a couple years. I just want to make sure this kit is actually plug-n-play as advertised.
Bought a '96 LT4 with 93k miles, clutch slips in high gear when ya give 'er the gas. I've worked on my own cars for 40-something years, not an "expert", but have been on the buissness end of a wrench a time or 2 (and make my living as a machinist). So, I am familiar with a bad clutch. Have been reading thru the countless threads on this dual mass flywheel till my head spins.
I see there's a few work arounds, in the worst case scenerio that my flywheel is toast, to go to a "standard" flywheel. So, here's a simple question:
anyone used this kit?
http://www.phoenixfriction.com/p-409...lt4-11-in.aspx
Not REAL concerned if the componants will last another 93k miles. I read here alot of the made-in-china crap is crap, and assume for this price, that's what this kit probably has. But I broke the bank just buying this car, and just need to make it roadworthy for a couple years. I just want to make sure this kit is actually plug-n-play as advertised.
03-29-2015, 09:09 PM
#2
Heel & Toe
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Member Since: Mar 2015
Location: Utah
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03-31-2015, 08:29 PM
#4
Team Owner
Jim at Power Torque has a wealth of information.
And don't delete this thread.
The aftermarket is full of garbage right now. Everyone is using the same junk Chinese made pressure plate, as such, there is a dimensional problem from hell... And the bearings suck. LuK, for example, is trying to tell us that there is one clutch for the L98, LT1, LT4 AND LT5 now... that's a pile if I ever heard of it.
Converting to a single mass is the best solution.
More then likely, the pressure plate and bearing are still ok, Get a friction disk and a new SMFW and you should be ok.
There is one important facet, the DMFW was the final fine tune balance for the engine. Have the SMFW match balanced to the DMFW and then all should be spot on perfect!
Again, reach out to Jim. He will guide you down this road and he has many of the hard to get parts... except the damned DMFW itself... I am pretty sure I bought the last one from GM in July 2009. Took my parts guy 3 days to find one sitting in a warehouse in Nebraska, IIRC.
And don't delete this thread.
The aftermarket is full of garbage right now. Everyone is using the same junk Chinese made pressure plate, as such, there is a dimensional problem from hell... And the bearings suck. LuK, for example, is trying to tell us that there is one clutch for the L98, LT1, LT4 AND LT5 now... that's a pile if I ever heard of it.
Converting to a single mass is the best solution.
More then likely, the pressure plate and bearing are still ok, Get a friction disk and a new SMFW and you should be ok.
There is one important facet, the DMFW was the final fine tune balance for the engine. Have the SMFW match balanced to the DMFW and then all should be spot on perfect!
Again, reach out to Jim. He will guide you down this road and he has many of the hard to get parts... except the damned DMFW itself... I am pretty sure I bought the last one from GM in July 2009. Took my parts guy 3 days to find one sitting in a warehouse in Nebraska, IIRC.
04-01-2015, 11:57 AM
#5
Melting Slicks
If money's an issue, just do the minimum.
inspect the dual mass flywheel first; if there's no real damage, a lot of people just clean up the flywheel surface with a scotch brite pad on the end of a drill;
personally I would pull the flywheel and replace the rear main seal...but if it ain't leaking, you can skip this step;
likewise, if the pressure plate is okay, especially check it with a straight edge for warp, clean it with a scotch brite and reuse it.
if the throw out bearing hasn't been making any noise and feels smooth, reuse it.
that pretty much leaves replacing the clutch disc and pilot bearing.
And that should get you back on the road for a minimum cost.
However, plan , save for a comprehensive clutch job down the road.
When I did my LT4 I went with a Spec Stage 3 Plus clutch and lightweight billet steel flywheel; and I replaced everything....including hydraulics. Over $2K in parts; the cost of my own labor doing that SOB of a job? Priceless.
inspect the dual mass flywheel first; if there's no real damage, a lot of people just clean up the flywheel surface with a scotch brite pad on the end of a drill;
personally I would pull the flywheel and replace the rear main seal...but if it ain't leaking, you can skip this step;
likewise, if the pressure plate is okay, especially check it with a straight edge for warp, clean it with a scotch brite and reuse it.
if the throw out bearing hasn't been making any noise and feels smooth, reuse it.
that pretty much leaves replacing the clutch disc and pilot bearing.
And that should get you back on the road for a minimum cost.
However, plan , save for a comprehensive clutch job down the road.
When I did my LT4 I went with a Spec Stage 3 Plus clutch and lightweight billet steel flywheel; and I replaced everything....including hydraulics. Over $2K in parts; the cost of my own labor doing that SOB of a job? Priceless.