xrav22

Unplug the battery to reset the codes and see if it will remix your
fuel ratio. Then check for any new codes lean exhaust is just what it is,
too much air into system, Also you may want to clean(carefully)
idle solenoid just below tps sensor and lube it with 3 in 1 oil.
Take it out and spray inside with cleaner. May help
Good luck

VikingTrad3r

did u do the o2 sensor?

C409

......... Put some new spark plugs in it and try not to drop any during the switcheroo ...............

inimeg6482

Anybody? .........
For those that stopped it What stopped the stutter

inimeg6482

Will do this weekend ......here's a question. .....I have a series of cracks and small gaps
On the side of my air intake filter housing I taped as much of it as I could but I know there is extra air being sucked in .....BUT ....this is before the maf so that cant cause this right?

gerardvg

Hi again

Have you double checked the distributor connector it is a 5 pin plug, it should be behind the distributor somewhere. I have come across broken tabs and they can came loose.

Another thing to check is the distributor pick up pole piece, have you tried disconnecting the tach wire? in case the the tach filter is bad?

Did you replace the coil?

Are you sure the timing is correct, do not trust the harmonic ballancer the outer ring can slip. Running retarded ignition will have adverse effects. Check no 1 is at top dead centre when the timing mark aligns with the ballancer mark.

xrav22

I would get a good used lower housing because of the cracks, it
can't hurt, but I don't think it will cause a problem before maf.
after all is checked and done recheck your tps sensor for .54
As long as your throttle is closed it should be .54(simply telling
computer this is idle) that is important.

chadk

Dude, Sir, Mr - I think your not getting the hint. Have you looked at the O2 sensors yet. I think people don't truly understand the importance of good working o2 sensor(s). I'm not talking about physically looking at them. I'm saying you can look at the raw data with a scan tool or REPLACE them. They are not expensive and should be replaced as a preventative maint. thing anyhow. Does your engine run ok until it warms up? If so your computer is in open loop and when it goes into closed loop it uses the voltage from the o2 sensor to tune air and fuel ratio.

Vett1990

Ya-all may say I'm crazy but, this is what I found on my C4 that idled like chit. Made the corrections and it starts instantly and idles proper, this isn't just a guess its actual done that stuff as I also chanced my tail for a year or two, trying to get the idle figured out.

First off, I had a broken intake valve spring on the number 8 cylinder not highly common, thank goodness the DART head has two springs.

Second, I found my number 5 and 7 plug wires switched around. 7 was going to 5 and 5 was going to 7. My idle issue is now gone after placing the plug wires on the correct spark plug.

Churchkey

Unlike other forums you have been given advice by knowledgeable individuals. There is NO magic wand or switch to flip to fix the problem, each area/component needs to be checked for proper operation.

Suggest printing this thread & give it to your mechanic with your vehicle & keys.

One more suggestion: When the engine is hot & at idle spray the intake manifold mating surfaces with WD40. A change in RPM indicates failing intake/plenum gaskets.

Good luck.

bjankuski

This is my thought, the previous own put different injectors in the car. Those injectors are not the same as the originals and the car is not tuned for those injectors and is running lean causing a hesitation at light throttle when you try to accelerate. The code 44 lean exhaust in my opinion points in that direction. To confirm this get a scanner and look at your BLM's and see where they are if they are up in the 150 160 range that is more then likely your problem. To fix this you will either need a custom tune or stock injectors.

FYI this is just a theory since I have no real data to go on other then what was listed in this post.

inimeg6482

THANKS FELLAS I will have my mechanic take further action and of course CHANGE THE DAMM O2 SENSOR. ....lol.....I just couldn't get my head around why steve spencer from bryner Chevrolet didn't feel the need to check all these things even if his scanner couldn't read my ecu (my mechanics snap-on scanner can) he could've checked SOO much other things .....like timing , the plugs, ohm the injectors, ignition and cylinders for non combustion

My mechanic will get this thread
Can anyone tell me what are some things he should see on the scanner of a decent running L98 and if the numbers or percentages or spec don't match up(example BLM's)then I know where to dig in.....I know his scanner will work

DanZ51

Not to make excuses for your dealer Tech, but these cars are ancient history. Trying to diagnose an OBD I car is very different from a new OBD II vehicle. And with all the new vehicle components/systems/warranties, I wouldn't fault a tech from not knowing how to diagnose our beloved dinosaurs, especially working flate-rate. You need to find a shop that remembers how to repair pre-'96 GM products.

Your injectors are definitely a question mark, as is your program calibration (EGR delete?). FIC could easily give them a cleaning and report your flow rates. Shame the PO couldn't provide you with more complete information.

inimeg6482

Ok...fellas o2 sensor was replaced and I took it for a quick drive and the issue/low throttle stutter remained.....

inimeg6482

This particular mechanic I am talking about is Steve Spencer from bryner Chevrolet according to people on here he is a corvette guru and spent years on c4 (he said this to me himself).....he was nice ....i think i just got blown off though....i wish he would have just checked the things mentioned by all of you .....im sure if he FELT like it he could have

jasonkraft

shoot some carb cleaner around everything that has a hose to it mine had a vacuum leak on the short piece of hose on the driver side going to the intake. it would only get rough when it got up to temperature, I guess when the hose got hot enough it expanded and started to draw in air