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I do not drive this car yet as the resto is still on going. I have been noticing that I will charge the battery to full, start the car to just to hear it purr then it may be off for a week or more. When I come back I have a dead battery. I have done the parasitic draw test with a volt meter (if I did it right) and I didn't see any significant drops to show me what it may be. Any suggestions, or should I ask, any problem areas on these cars. Thanks for the help.
I do not drive this car yet as the resto is still on going. I have been noticing that I will charge the battery to full, start the car to just to hear it purr then it may be off for a week or more. When I come back I have a dead battery. I have done the parasitic draw test with a volt meter (if I did it right) and I didn't see any significant drops to show me what it may be. Any suggestions, or should I ask, any problem areas on these cars. Thanks for the help.
You need to check an amp draw with everything off. When you see a draw start removing the fuses until it drops that will be your problem area. Just a little heads up and an easy test, remove the tree fuses for the digital dash and see if that solves your problem. The electrolytic capacitors in the power supply have a tendency to leak and that will cause your problem.
if it's not your battery, i'd have it thoroughly checked.....the procedure would be to put a amp guage between the pos post and pos cable, and pull fuses until the amps drop...don't confuse the cts circuit, it stays on for awhile and putting the meter in series with the battery engages it....it has memory for seat/clock/radio//interior lights...wait untill they go out...disconnect hood lights....if you have no amp draw as you state, i'd look to your battery.....it can take awhile to find some.....make sure all your grounds are good ......assuming you have a gm manual...you'll need one....
also could try looking at car in the dark, make sure nothing is on....spare tire light/console etc......good luck....
I still haven't found my draw but what I did to get by was to install a battery quick disconnect I bought from amazon. Turn the **** a 1/4 turn and the battery is disconnected then turn it back 1/4 turn and the cars powered back up. If you have a car that isn't driven much its real handy even if you don't have a draw problem too.
But the main thing is it will keep from ruining the battery till you find the culprit. Also it makes testing for current drain problems easy since I can just turn the **** to disconnect the battery when I want to test for the current drain by testing across the disconnect itself.
Was $9 or something like that. Bought several of them since I have a bunch of vehicles I don't drive often.
I looked at those and others and the reason I went with the one I did was because it can be removed at any time with no permanent changes being done to the car. Plus it doesn't take up any room
does your horn work? mine was doing the same thing and found the horn was stuck and the relay was red hot. glad I found it before the car caught fire
My car when I bought it would die every time I worked on it for a long period of time, I bought a duralast gold(still had gold top)
and problem gone after weeks of non use or hours of working on.
What I noticed after 2 yrs my battery started going dead after 2 weeks
of non use and the aaa guy jumped it. The water needs to be topped
off on all these batterys that you can take the cap off. Use distilled water only and your battery will last several more years. The water needs to be level with the bottom of the plastic cylinder. AAA guy said I need a new battery , since I topped it off it last 2 weeks between start ups, I usually drive it more , just a thought. Good luck.
04-24-2015, 01:40 PM
1984 Battery Drain
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