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I pulled the rubber boot from around the gas filler cap on my 85 - mine had a tear in it, and I thought I'd replace it. as soon as I pulled the boot, I noticed the ends of the rubber hoses that attach to the fuel pump assembly were not in the best of shape. they had some length-wise cuts, rips, or tears in the ends of the hose. the worm gear clamp cover most of the damaged end, and it appears to be leak free. at some point, I'm thinking I may need to address this issue. so, as to my question, anyone done a repair? what did you do or use? any suggestions? I'm thinking a brass, barbed, hose repair nipple, a length of hose, and a couple hose clamps, but I don't know. the rubber hose end of the fuel line is only about 6 inches - not much length for a clean-up cut on the end of the hose, or even a repair. looking for suggestions. not sure how this happened, and just to keep me from getting pi$$ed-off, maybe I don't want to know -
I'll be under my 89 today inspecting the fuel lines and changing the filter. I think the rubber part of the fuel line is pretty short but I'll know for sure later today.
I have had possession of Three 94 95 vettes every one of them the rubber lines were dry rotted. I replaced the rubber Lines with the Plastic lines.
I have to ask as I am very confused. On my 87 my rubber lines have a permanent hard clamp to the metal fuel line. How do you replace this with plastic lines? Are you cutting the metal line and simply clamping the plastic line over top of the metal?
Sorry just having a hard time envisioning how this would work.
My 88 L98 started to take longer to crank than usual. Fuel system would only hold fuel pressure for less than 5 minutes after the engine was shut down. Mechanic friend told me I needed a new fuel pump. During the disassembly I noticed the rubber fuel lines on top of the tank looked awful, like yours. When I pulled pump out a 3 – 4 inch rubber fuel line attaches between the pump and the fuel pick-up line. A pulsator I think it is called. This rubber piece looked worse than the outside line because it is submerged in fuel most of the time. New pump comes with a new rubber fuel line pulsator. I replaced the top rubber lines with new fuel hose and used new clamps. Now cranks like new and holds pressure.
Why am I bringing this up, I think this is where you are headed. This job will take about 2 hours.
I replaced the top rubber lines with new fuel hose and used new clamps.
back to my original post - HOW did you replace the top rubber fuel lines??? they are only about 6 inches, or so, and are factory crimped at the (steel) fuel line end. I'm looking for repair suggestions for those short rubber lines at the top of the tank, going into the fuel pump/sending unit assembly. I have no starting issues at this time, and pretty sure I don't need a new fuel pump. I'm only gathering repair info and suggestions for the short rubber hoses.
I did this repair 2 years ago. From what I remember I used a razor knife to carefully slice the rubber lines to slide the crimps off. If you are talking about the crimps that you need a pair of small pliers to squeeze and pull off, I used a small vise grip pair. If not that type of clamp, this job was done before I bought the car in 95.
I did this repair 2 years ago. From what I remember I used a razor knife to carefully slice the rubber lines to slide the crimps off. If you are talking about the crimps that you need a pair of small pliers to squeeze and pull off, I used a small vise grip pair. If not that type of clamp, this job was done before I bought the car in 95.
I'm confused - "slice the rubber to slide the crimps off" - again, I'm not talking about removing hose clamps here, I'm talking about repairing (or replacing) the short RUBBER FUEL LINES going into the pump/regulator assembly bolted to the top of the fuel tank. they look to be 5/16" and 3/8" rubber fuel lines, factory crimped onto the steel fuel lines. they are about six inches in length, and have clamps at the FP end. the ends of mine, at the pump/regulator assembly are booger'd up - (see my original pic). so, one more time, has anyone successfully repaired/replaced those short rubber fuel lines at the tank.
I know I'm not the smartest guy on the planet, but am I not making myself clear?
There is another rubber hose to the left that is attached to a T-fitting that you cannot see in this pic which I left alone (looked ok) because I can't get to it with my hands.
I'm confused - "slice the rubber to slide the crimps off" - again, I'm not talking about removing hose clamps here, I'm talking about repairing (or replacing) the short RUBBER FUEL LINES going into the pump/regulator assembly bolted to the top of the fuel tank. they look to be 5/16" and 3/8" rubber fuel lines, factory crimped onto the steel fuel lines. they are about six inches in length, and have clamps at the FP end. the ends of mine, at the pump/regulator assembly are booger'd up - (see my original pic). so, one more time, has anyone successfully repaired/replaced those short rubber fuel lines at the tank.
I know I'm not the smartest guy on the planet, but am I not making myself clear?
I understand your frustration but every one here understands your question and the answer they are giving is dead on, what your missing is; the explanation applies to the other end of that rubber hose. The Fuel Feed line is in the picture with the clamp, but if you follow that hose if leads from the gas tank to the steel fuel line, at that end it is crimped with a unique style of clamp, that is what everyone is talking about with the pliers etc.
As for the attachment to the top of the sending unit, I went to Lowes and bought a brass coupler to go inside the rubber fuel line, installed it in a the old line after cutting an inch off it, then added new fuel line to the other side and attached the new line to the top of the sending unit.
While this worked it is far more preferable to replace the entire rubber hose section from the steel line to the sending unit to lessen the chance of leaks, this is why everyone is discussing the steel line side.
I understand your frustration but every one here understands your question and the answer they are giving is dead on, what you're missing is; the explanation applies to the other end of that rubber hose. The Fuel Feed line is in the picture with the clamp, but if you follow that hose if leads from the gas tank to the steel fuel line, at that end it is crimped with a unique style of clamp, that is what everyone is talking about with the pliers etc.
As for the attachment to the top of the sending unit, I went to Lowes and bought a brass coupler to go inside the rubber fuel line, installed it in a the old line after cutting an inch off it, then added new fuel line to the other side and attached the new line to the top of the sending unit.
While this worked it is far more preferable to replace the entire rubber hose section from the steel line to the sending unit to lessen the chance of leaks, this is why everyone is discussing the steel line side.
what I'm missing? WHAT I'M MISSING???
I understand what you're saying, but I'm not sure you understand they are saying. first of all, those crimped rubber lines are under the rear-top RH quarter panel, NEAR the fuel tank door opening, and covered by the body panel. how anyone could get their hands in there, let alone with a pair of pliers and undo the factory crimp is way beyond mine, or I'm guessing anyone's ability. you say, their answers are dead on - well, here's the answers so far -
I replaced the rubber Lines with the Plastic lines.
HOW??? - "the plastic lines - ??? WHAT plastic lines?
I heat up the plastic lines with my heat gun just enough to form around the nipples. You can easily install a worm gear clamp for safety!!
still confused here, maybe I just need some pics. I think I understand what nipples he maybe talking about - I'm guessing the nipples at the pump/regulator end , but not sure HOW he's tied into the remaining fuel line - ??? dead-on???
...during the disassembly I noticed the rubber fuel lines on top of the tank looked awful, like yours.
OK, this I understand.
When I pulled pump out a 3 – 4 inch rubber fuel line attaches between the pump and the fuel pick-up line. A pulsator I think it is called. This rubber piece looked worse than the outside line because it is submerged in fuel most of the time. New pump comes with a new rubber fuel line pulsator.
here, he's talking about replacing the fuel pump - ??? this has nothing to do with my original question.
I replaced the top rubber lines with new fuel hose and used new clamps.
OK, he replaced the top rubber lines with new hose and clamps - BUT, HOW DID HE TIE IT INTO THE FACTORY CRIMPED END???
From what I remember I used a razor knife to carefully slice the rubber lines to slide the crimps off.
slice and slide - WTF? sorry, I do not understand what he's talking about. do you?
If you are talking about the crimps that you need a pair of small pliers to squeeze and pull off, I used a small vise grip pair.
OK, how in the hell does anyone get their hands in there with a pair of pliers or vice grips to undo anything - ??? if you can get those factory crimps off, I'm guessing you are going to do more damage, and open a larger can of worms!
SORRY, NOT TRYING TO BE A WISE-***, BUT IF YOU THINK ANY OF THESE ANSWERS ARE "DEAD-ON" YOU ARE ONE HELL OF A LOT SMARTER THAN I AM -
your statement here -
As for the attachment to the top of the sending unit, I went to Lowes and bought a brass coupler to go inside the rubber fuel line, installed it in a the old line after cutting an inch off it, then added new fuel line to the other side and attached the new line to the top of the sending unit
.
is really the only thing that makes any sense!
mods, might as well shut this one down. we're going nowhere fast!
I'm sorry Joe C. I took a pic of the same area as you did. I replaced all the rubber fuel lines that were connected to the fuel pump. Mine looked as bad as yours. If you want to replace the fuel lines deeper to the left and right of the fuel pump, my guess is to remove the rear bumper cover. You can make your own new connections then. Let me know how this goes, a new rear bumper is on my repaint list.
I'm sorry Joe C. I took a pic of the same area as you did. I replaced all the rubber fuel lines that were connected to the fuel pump. Mine looked as bad as yours. If you want to replace the fuel lines deeper to the left and right of the fuel pump, my guess is to remove the rear bumper cover. You can make your own new connections then. Let me know how this goes, a new rear bumper is on my repaint list.
man, I must be frickin' dense or something. HOW did you replace the rubber fuel lines going to the fuel pump? if you replaced them, at some point you had to tie them into some part of the original, existing rubber lines, or somehow, attached them to the steel fuel lines. looking at the car's layout and assembly, I'm not sure removing the rear bumper is a viable solution.
again, not trying to be a wise-***, or give anyone a rough time, but my questions and the answers don't seem to be in sync.
man, I must be frickin' dense or something. HOW did you replace the rubber fuel lines going to the fuel pump? if you replaced them, at some point you had to tie them into some part of the original, existing rubber lines, or somehow, attached them to the steel fuel lines. looking at the car's layout and assembly, I'm not sure removing the rear bumper is a viable solution.
again, not trying to be a wise-***, or give anyone a rough time, but my questions and the answers don't seem to be in sync.
this is hurting my brain - good night folks!
Joe. Replacing the fuel pump and all the rubber hoses was not one my most pleasant days. I had never replaced an electric fuel pump before. I think replacing the pump helped me with replacing the rubber fuel lines. I had to do it. Fuel pump was 90% shot. And good night.
Joe, you should be able to cut off the steel line just below the crimp and attach new "slightly longer" fuel hose with a couple clamps, this should hold without any problem, the "problem" is going to be getting to the section to cut it off...Can you either get the steel fuel line loose and down to the bottom , or somehow get it loose and slide it up where you can fix it from above near the fuel cap area..As a last resort you could cut the steel fuel line under the car where you can get to it , slide it out, replace the rubber hose, then put it back in , and reattach it with a steel or brass fuel line coupler...If you wanted extra security , you could get some of the flexable fuel line with the stainless mesh weave on the outside to run from below the car to the top connection, this stuff is super wear resistant...I can only give suggestions since I have never done this repair myself..Good Luck Buddy......WW
Joe, below is a link to some of the SS flex fuel line , this stuff is great and holds up to abrasion well , it also meets OEM specifications for fuel line , and it comes in many sizes and lengths , I wouldn't hesitate to use it for your application, I have seen it in use many times without problems.You could attach this to the steel fuel line wherever you could reach the line to cut it off with a small tube cutter, then run it up to the nipple on the top of the tank...Just another option for you....WW
Joe, you should be able to cut off the steel line just below the crimp and attach new "slightly longer" fuel hose with a couple clamps, this should hold without any problem, the "problem" is going to be getting to the section to cut it off...Can you either get the steel fuel line loose and down to the bottom , or somehow get it loose and slide it up where you can fix it from above near the fuel cap area..As a last resort you could cut the steel fuel line under the car where you can get to it , slide it out, replace the rubber hose, then put it back in , and reattach it with a steel or brass fuel line coupler...If you wanted extra security , you could get some of the flexable fuel line with the stainless mesh weave on the outside to run from below the car to the top connection, this stuff is super wear resistant...I can only give suggestions since I have never done this repair myself..Good Luck Buddy......WW
Joe, below is a link to some of the SS flex fuel line , this stuff is great and holds up to abrasion well , it also meets OEM specifications for fuel line , and it comes in many sizes and lengths , I wouldn't hesitate to use it for your application, I have seen it in use many times without problems.You could attach this to the steel fuel line wherever you could reach the line to cut it off with a small tube cutter, then run it up to the nipple on the top of the tank...Just another option for you....WW
finally, some good information - . the issue is getting to those factory crimps. they are not easily accessible, and cutting the ends would be quite the task. any kind of power cutter, that generates sparks would be a no-no because of gas and fumes in the line. a small hand tubing cutter would be one solution. (BTW, there's no way in hell anybody could break those apart with pliers or vice grips). having looked at the problem, if you remove the gas-door assembly, to the right of the opening is the body panel underneath the gas-door panel. I'm guessing one could cut an opening there, somewhere around 3.5"x3.5", and that might give someone enough access to the factory crimps. a small aluminum cover plate or filler plate could be fabricated and secured with anything from screws and clip nuts to pop rivets. the aluminum filler plate would only need to be in the neighborhood of 12 ga, and maybe the use of sealer or a gasket. after the repair, and the gas door panel is reinstalled, the modification would be undetectable. still giving this some thought....
If cutting the panel will allow access to the crimps , then that may be your best option..That would allow you to keep things stock without changing the factory setup ...As long as you have room to get a small tube cutter in that space you should be good to go...This problem is just another example of GM engineers smoking pot at work.......WW
05-06-2015, 07:25 AM
(rubber) fuel lines (@ fuel pump) - ??? - anyone done a repair?
again, I'm not talking about removing hose clamps here, I'm talking about repairing (or replacing) the short RUBBER FUEL LINES going into the pump/regulator assembly bolted to the top of the fuel tank. they look to be 5/16" and 3/8" rubber fuel lines, factory crimped onto the steel fuel lines. they are about six inches in length, and have clamps at the FP end. the ends of mine, at the pump/regulator assembly are booger'd up - (see my original pic). so, one more time, has anyone successfully repaired/replaced those short rubber fuel lines at the tank.
....WW