dgantt

Thanks for the timing replys, im all over it now. Hot rod roy thanks, the engine was rebuilt by the texas speed shop in Texas all other mods were done by me. No corvette club down here that I know of but it would be nice. Continental extreme contact 275/40/17 front, 297/35/18 rear.

Here she is in all her glory!

dgantt

About to check timing. I know stock base timing is 6 dgrees ATDC but any one running this cam and know what timing should be for it crane 224/224 @.050 .460lift 114 lobe center. I called crane and there closed. Thanks

Churchkey

Timing is 6 degrees BEFORE top dead center.

Not a big cam, even so with EST you can try a few more degrees advance maybe 8 or 10* initial. Knock sensors will protect from melted slugs.

dgantt

OK so 0 is top dead center so 6 degrees below would mean Im retarding the timing 6 degrees,looking at the markings from the drives seat (if you could see them from there) it would be to the left of 0. The car runs **** poor performance wise set like this, I advanced it 6 degrees above 0 (to the right of 0) and it runs like a totally different animal.

gregs86

To the right is before to the drivers side is after

dgantt

Well that explains it, thank you a ton!

ex-x-fire

You want your timing mark above the zero, When it advances as you rev it, the mark go up & off the scale.<br/>

dgantt

Engines running very strong now, car was at 0 dgrees for base timing back at 6 BTDC and MUCH better. Now I just need a good tune and figure out why the car will not kick down a gear when I punch it and Ill be good. Thanks for all the replys and advice yall are the best!

corvettenorway

try to give it 10 btdc

dgantt

The timing marks only go to 8 Im guessing imagine 2 more marks. Do you feel with my mod this will help pull some more HP I guess its just trial and error anyway. Just put new spark plugs in the and set the gap to .045 I may have to lessen the gap if it doesnt like it over the old plugs at .035.

Hot Rod Roy

That's why you need to find a good tuner. Your anti-knock feature may not let you know when you've got too much advance, because it will retard your ignition to eliminate any pre-ignition noise. That's not the optimum way to set up an engine.

86C4Z51

Get some old tires.

856SPEED

That's a good idea.

Although it's nice to get traction like you have! Spinning ain't winning dude!!

DanielRicany

You should definitely get a proper tune. And only advance the base timing temporarily as your tuner can advance it permanently inside the tune.

So... Can you burn the tires now?

dgantt

Car has allot more pull and is running great BUT it will not kick down properly. The few times it has its a blast 95% of the times when you punch it it just starts making power in the gear its in and wont down shift. Ive tried adjusting the TV cable multiple times also my throttle cable is slacked and will not open the throttle body 100% when pushing the pedal to the floor. Tune needed BADLY as well.

crowz

If something wrong with the throttle cable that could be most of your downshift problems. It has to open the throttle body enough to cause a downshift since the tv cable is on the other side of the throttle body linkage. Seesaw effect.

ex-x-fire

I'd click it up till you can't open the throttle 100%, then click it down 1 or 2 clicks.

dgantt

If I adjust the TV cable and push the pedal to the floor from inside the car the throttle body level does not even open far enough to ratched the TV cable adjustment at all. I have to pull the throttle body lever to WOT to get the TV cable to ratchet and adjust. The original owner had the throttle body spacer on the car and I took it off when I bought my 52mm TB and I think the cable is stretched now.

crowz

It will never downshift right then. Either see if there is another location the pin can be moved to on the throttle body "ear" or replace the throttle cable.

dgantt

I thought downshifts took place around 3/4 pedal depression?