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i've noticed my 1995 corvette is a little bit higher or right rear corner, about 3/4" higher then the side. (seems to be a common problem)
So I would make a ride height adjustment all by myself without digital instruments just a ruler, but won't that this adjustement will affect toe 'n camber
i've noticed my 1995 corvette is a little bit higher or right rear corner, about 3/4" higher then the side. (seems to be a common problem)
So I would make a ride height adjustment all by myself without digital instruments just a ruler, but won't that this adjustement will affect toe 'n camber
Anyone knonws?
Yes the camber and toe in will be affected with a ride height change and need a 4 wheel alignment, how much it is affected is determined by how much of a change in ride height.
You can easily change the bolts on the rear suspension to counteract the body to be more level, the standard ones have a split pin to prevent the nut from coming loose.
The shop manual will have the correct ground clearance specs, you could adjust the rear suspension to level it out and have the correct ride height. You may get away by doing that and the alignment will be in the ball park.
I would get it aligned, a good idea to do that to prevent uneven wear on the tires.
Yes the camber and toe in will be affected with a ride height change and need a 4 wheel alignment, how much it is affected is determined by how much of a change in ride height.
You can easily change the bolts on the rear suspension to counteract the body to be more level, the standard ones have a split pin to prevent the nut from coming loose.
The shop manual will have the correct ground clearance specs, you could adjust the rear suspension to level it out and have the correct ride height. You may get away by doing that and the alignment will be in the ball park.
I would get it aligned, a good idea to do that to prevent uneven wear on the tires.
Yes the camber and toe in will be affected with a ride height change and need a 4 wheel alignment, how much it is affected is determined by how much of a change in ride height.
You can easily change the bolts on the rear suspension to counteract the body to be more level, the standard ones have a split pin to prevent the nut from coming loose.
The shop manual will have the correct ground clearance specs, you could adjust the rear suspension to level it out and have the correct ride height. You may get away by doing that and the alignment will be in the ball park.
I would get it aligned, a good idea to do that to prevent uneven wear on the tires.
Have you got, some specs for ride height for 1995?
In my experience ride height depends a lot on the slope of your driveway and the curbs and bumps you normally traverse. Until you get very (way too) low you are not adversely affecting suspension geometry, so every Corvette I have ever had has been adjusted down a bit. Normally on stock bolts for me, as if I want to go much lower I go to coil overs. My 93 got coil overs more as a mod fest thing, but I have had to raise the car when I moved back to California as the roads are so crappy here compared to Las Vegas and/or Scottsdale.
Both my C5 and C6 Z06s have been lowered on stock bolts.
In my experience ride height depends a lot on the slope of your driveway and the curbs and bumps you normally traverse. Until you get very (way too) low you are not adversely affecting suspension geometry, so every Corvette I have ever had has been adjusted down a bit. Normally on stock bolts for me, as if I want to go much lower I go to coil overs. My 93 got coil overs more as a mod fest thing, but I have had to raise the car when I moved back to California as the roads are so crappy here compared to Las Vegas and/or Scottsdale.
Both my C5 and C6 Z06s have been lowered on stock bolts.
Ok, i understand this, but taking a look at my car it seems to be a little bit higher on the rear, so would like to know if there is a factory spec about this
Mine is the same way. I could never adjust it out to be correct. I purchased longer bolts, new spring, sway bar bushings. I have not replaced the link arm bushings yet. The front appears to be good.
I see what you mean. It has the old "Rake" look. There is a spec and it is available in the Helms. Should be the same for any 92-96. Unfortunately mine is over at the garage with the older cars. The spec picks several specific points on the frame (and on the body) and measures from that point to the ground.
I see what you mean. It has the old "Rake" look. There is a spec and it is available in the Helms. Should be the same for any 92-96. Unfortunately mine is over at the garage with the older cars. The spec picks several specific points on the frame (and on the body) and measures from that point to the ground.
Sorry I can't put my hand on one now.
Yep is just this"rake look" front lower than rear,
Also right rear is a little bit higher thatn left rear.....i suppose that this was happened when previous oener had raplaced shocks, infact bilstein are on my car, they shouldn't be as OEM equipment? Is right?
Yep is just this"rake look" front lower than rear,
Also right rear is a little bit higher thatn left rear.....i suppose that this was happened when previous oener had raplaced shocks, infact bilstein are on my car, they shouldn't be as OEM equipment? Is right?
Bilstein are OEM.
Park the car on a flat level surface. Measure the distance from the ground to the under-side of the fender lips. The rears should be a bit higher than the fronts, but never lower than the fronts. I dropped mine about 3/4" in the back, so they are now about 1/4" higher than the fronts.
Park the car on a flat level surface. Measure the distance from the ground to the under-side of the fender lips. The rears should be a bit higher than the fronts, but never lower than the fronts. I dropped mine about 3/4" in the back, so they are now about 1/4" higher than the fronts.
Don't use the distance from the wheel well to the ground. The body components are not always exactly the same even when the body was put together in Bowling Green. And if the car was ever damaged, it may not have been repaired exactly as new so any measurement would not necessarily be the same as before.
Ride height is measured from certain measured spots on the frame rails to ground and with a specific cargo load. There will be information in the FSM about ride height. And ride height is different betwee coupes and convertibles because of the X-brace found on 'verts.
Shocks should not completely control the vehicle height. Note that the OEM rear spring bolts have a castle nut and a cotter pin that goes thru a hole in the bolt shaft. That makes it impossible to change the rear ride height unless you replace the bolt. Longer bolts will lower the rear of the car and "Nyloc" nuts are used to get the desired ride height. Once that is done, a 4-wheel alignment should be done.
Don't use the distance from the wheel well to the ground. The body components are not always exactly the same even when the body was put together in Bowling Green. And if the car was ever damaged, it may not have been repaired exactly as new so any measurement would not necessarily be the same as before.
Ride height is measured from certain measured spots on the frame rails to ground and with a specific cargo load. There will be information in the FSM about ride height. And ride height is different betwee coupes and convertibles because of the X-brace found on 'verts.
Shocks should not completely control the vehicle height. Note that the OEM rear spring bolts have a castle nut and a cotter pin that goes thru a hole in the bolt shaft. That makes it impossible to change the rear ride height unless you replace the bolt. Longer bolts will lower the rear of the car and "Nyloc" nuts are used to get the desired ride height. Once that is done, a 4-wheel alignment should be done.
About this, last time I've put car on lift I've seen that right tire was loppier than left one, so would assume that right shock absorber isn't loaded as the left is, this affects ride height from left to right...
Don't use the distance from the wheel well to the ground. The body components are not always exactly the same even when the body was put together in Bowling Green. And if the car was ever damaged, it may not have been repaired exactly as new so any measurement would not necessarily be the same as before.
Ride height is measured from certain measured spots on the frame rails to ground and with a specific cargo load. There will be information in the FSM about ride height. And ride height is different betwee coupes and convertibles because of the X-brace found on 'verts.
Shocks should not completely control the vehicle height. Note that the OEM rear spring bolts have a castle nut and a cotter pin that goes thru a hole in the bolt shaft. That makes it impossible to change the rear ride height unless you replace the bolt. Longer bolts will lower the rear of the car and "Nyloc" nuts are used to get the desired ride height. Once that is done, a 4-wheel alignment should be done.
Supposed car was been damaged and not properly repaired, how can I determine this? Are some points from frame to ground to measure?
I've checked my rear spring bolts, right hand bolt end is shortest than ledt hand... About 1/4" infact distance from right wheel well to tire is 1/4" higher than left
At this point what should i do? Seems that is possible to tight a little right bolt... Though wouldn't make a mess??
Is it correct to tight right bolt this case... Or how already said herethe ride height has a lot of points need to be checked
I've checked my rear spring bolts, right hand bolt end is shortest than ledt hand... About 1/4" infact distance from right wheel well to tire is 1/4" higher than left
At this point what should i do? Seems that is possible to tight a little right bolt... Though wouldn't make a mess??
Is it correct to tight right bolt this case... Or how already said herethe ride height has a lot of points need to be checked
Theoretically if you "lowered" the NUT on the R/R bolt the R/R would lower and the L/F would increase. That is pure "theory" and I doubt that the 1/4" you mention would create a difference that you can measure. How long are your rear bolts? Measure from under-head to the tip. Do your bolts have provisions to be cotter-keyed as the OE are?
I really believe it's time for you to drive it and "forget about the dimensions you keep mentioning.
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
Theoretically if you "lowered" the NUT on the R/R bolt the R/R would lower and the L/F would increase. That is pure "theory" and I doubt that the 1/4" you mention would create a difference that you can measure.
I really believe it's time for you to drive it and "forget about the dimensions you keep mentioning.
05-21-2015, 06:28 PM
will ride height adjust affects camber and toe?
