davewhtt

I wonder if the Crows foot wrench will do the same as the smaller type sockets in that kit? I have the larger cut away socket already. Good job with the pictures. Dave

pkincy

You may have the same problem. I say may because it is possible from some of the replies above that your passenger side O2 sensor may sit low enough for you to get to the sensor flats with a normal open end. For may of us that is impossible as the angle of the sensor is a bit upright or even angled out so no open end can get to the flats. Taht is when this method is needed.

davewhtt

I guess that explains the special shape of tools in that kit.

C4_vette

Any way to get to the connectors withou dropping the cat or pulling the starter?

pkincy

I didn't have any trouble getting to the connector (one wire on my 93) on either side, however I have a lift so i was just reaching up.

C4_vette

Definitely can't get my hands on it. I can reach it with a set of long pliers, but if the pigtail falls behind the starter once i separate the connectors, I might not be able to get to it. The plugs are kind of fragile being 20 + years old heat exposed plastic.

From the top it is inaccessible. If the pigtail / harness connector gets busted up, has anyone rewired that? I am thinking if I go at it with pliers, its not likely to survive.

pkincy

Does it have a zip tie holding it up away from the exhaust manifold? Mine did, but that was to keep the wires away from the headers, so don't know the actual factory installation wiring loom. They are fragile but if you can get a flat bladed screwdriver on the toggle you might be able to worry it loose.

C4_vette

No zip ties, its all original. If I knew for certain there was 5 or 6 inches of slack on the opposite side of the sensor connector, I would feel pretty comfortable detaching it from the engine block clip knowing it would drop down further and I could manipulate the connectors. But if that is tight, or only has an inch or two of slack, im stuck trying to fish it out from behind the starter with a pair of pliers, less than ideal.

I am thinking that wrestling it with pliers will result in cracking up that old connector, and I wouldn't even know where to start as far as replacing and rewiring the pigtail or harness side of the connection.

Everyone seems focused on breaking loose the actual sensor, but its the connector on the passenger side that is kicking my rear.

94c4seminole

I see that I missed this from a month ago. Were you able to get the wire disconnected?

C4_vette

I busted off part the clip on the connector trying to disconnect in place with pliers and a screwdriver, so I stopped right there as its still firmly connected. I haven't worked up the nerve to disconnect it from the engine block clip, which I think I would just cut because if I went after the connector it would just fall apart completely. I do think there probably is slack for it to drop down, but since I was just trying to freshen up the sensors, they still function, I am going to let it ride for now. I suppose i could direct wire the sensor somehow if I destroyed the connector, but I don't want turn this into a big time repair.

Not a maintenance friendly design!

pcolt94

I have done the O2s from the bottom. But I did try the top method for the right side and it worked great, much easier.

I guess when you're on the bottom you can't see the top view.

C4_vette

Did you remove anything? Or did you do it by feel? I can barely see the clip from the top, its pretty well hidden in there! Thanks for the help!

pcolt94

I did all the electrical from the bottom.

There was a zip tie holding the cable which I cut. Then I was able to pull the connector out which gave me enough slack to see it well. I disconnected it using a screwdriver to release the lock.

I then loosened the O2 from the top. Then from the bottom I unscrewed the O2 and removed it. I then threaded the new one on hand tight. Then from the top I tightened it up.

Then on the bottom I connected the connector. I then zip tied it in a couple places where the original was tied to keep it away from the exhaust pipe.

Severed92

My Right side O2 is also recessed slightly in the pipe, making it difficult to get any tool on to. I am considering patching that hole and moving it a little when I do replace them soon.

By the way, if the Right side O2 sensor was InOp, how much would it really effect the performance.. and could it trigger a Fuel Disable or other startup procedure? Wouldnt the ECM use a default value or even base it off the Left for awhile?

How would it run if you spliced the Right sensor wire into the Left, making both signals identical at the ECM? (because i read that the ECM watch's for them to differentiate from one another to trigger, something I cant remember at moment)

pcolt94

There are different kinds of O2 sockets/tools. I have 3 to accommodate different situations. Even recessed, a socked can go on it with a universal and long extension. You got to have a good selection of tools to do these jobs

The O2s are the heart of how the ECM makes decisions for engine performance. Fuel A/F ratio, timing and many others. Without the O2s working properly the ECM will not go into closed loop. Closed loop is where you get your best fuel economy, power and performance across the range. Without it, it will use the tables and many thing will never be right.

You don’t even want to think about that. Things don’t work that way and won't. I'll just forget about what you said. It's is not even a good "bad idea".