1994 Vette No injector pulse
06-12-2015, 03:17 PM
#1
1994 Vette No injector pulse
Help
My 94 vette died when opti spark drown from leaking water pump.
Left it sitting on blocks in garage for a few years. Now has New timing sprockets and chain, New Opti Spark, New water pump, New fuel pump and filter and New battery.
Spark Plugs firing, fuel rail has pressure, injectors have power but no pulse.
Engine will fire off when sprayed with either.
OBD 2 scanner reads no communication with computer. OBD 2 plug has power on two pins. One with ignition off and two with ignition on.
Is my computer dead? Could shorted out opti spark have killed it?
Could 8 years sitting and dead battery kill my computer?
Can VATS shut down injector pulse but allow starter to work?
Will OBD 2 scanner even communicate with 1994 corvette computer?
My 94 vette died when opti spark drown from leaking water pump.
Left it sitting on blocks in garage for a few years. Now has New timing sprockets and chain, New Opti Spark, New water pump, New fuel pump and filter and New battery.
Spark Plugs firing, fuel rail has pressure, injectors have power but no pulse.
Engine will fire off when sprayed with either.
OBD 2 scanner reads no communication with computer. OBD 2 plug has power on two pins. One with ignition off and two with ignition on.
Is my computer dead? Could shorted out opti spark have killed it?
Could 8 years sitting and dead battery kill my computer?
Can VATS shut down injector pulse but allow starter to work?
Will OBD 2 scanner even communicate with 1994 corvette computer?
Last edited by drifter5674; 06-12-2015 at 03:19 PM. Reason: left out word
06-12-2015, 11:25 PM
#2
Race Director
Your car has an OBD2 style connector, but it isn't an obd2 car. If VATS is on, you will see SECURITY light steady on, no flashes. Which won't even let the engine crank. Look at the injector wires for cuts/tears. Dumb question, but are the injector connector things connected?
06-12-2015, 11:40 PM
#3
Race Director
The usual test to separate fuel problems from ignition problems. Obviously ignition is OK, so...
No. No. No.
It can if the starter enable relay has been bypassed. Not likely to have been done in your case, but still possible.
That depends on the scanner. Some will work, others don't.
It can if the starter enable relay has been bypassed. Not likely to have been done in your case, but still possible.
That depends on the scanner. Some will work, others don't.
06-13-2015, 12:05 AM
#4
Don't know of any reason starter relay would have been bypassed.
Car was running waiting to warm up and check water level after new thermostat and antifreeze put in. Left it to put up tools came back to dead engine and water pouring out of the water pump on to opti spark.
Put it garage covered it up and left it. Set 8 years undisturbed. Replaced Opti spark, timing gears, timing cover seals, water pump, fuel pump, the sock and the filter.
Flushed out fuel line and injector rail with clean fuel. Got rail pressure at schrade valve on back of rail. Got good fuel flow out of return line on injector rail. Pluged fuel pressure return regulator to eliminate it.
Got 12 volts power on one wire on all injectors. Used home made test light to check injector ground pulse. No pulse on any injector. No injector spray on any injector. I have rail loose from intake so I can see the injectors not spraying
Assumed wet opti spark is reason it died. Could have been something else happened at same time.
Security light flashes when door is opened. Goes of when key is turned on.
Checked relays under dash. Checked relay in compartment behind driver seat. Have no broken or frayed wires. No Blown fuses. Have been pulling every plug and connector apart looking for corrosion. Found nothing so far.
One other thing got 4 gal plus fuel in tank. Gage still showing on reserve. Does gage run through computer.
Car was running waiting to warm up and check water level after new thermostat and antifreeze put in. Left it to put up tools came back to dead engine and water pouring out of the water pump on to opti spark.
Put it garage covered it up and left it. Set 8 years undisturbed. Replaced Opti spark, timing gears, timing cover seals, water pump, fuel pump, the sock and the filter.
Flushed out fuel line and injector rail with clean fuel. Got rail pressure at schrade valve on back of rail. Got good fuel flow out of return line on injector rail. Pluged fuel pressure return regulator to eliminate it.
Got 12 volts power on one wire on all injectors. Used home made test light to check injector ground pulse. No pulse on any injector. No injector spray on any injector. I have rail loose from intake so I can see the injectors not spraying
Assumed wet opti spark is reason it died. Could have been something else happened at same time.
Security light flashes when door is opened. Goes of when key is turned on.
Checked relays under dash. Checked relay in compartment behind driver seat. Have no broken or frayed wires. No Blown fuses. Have been pulling every plug and connector apart looking for corrosion. Found nothing so far.
One other thing got 4 gal plus fuel in tank. Gage still showing on reserve. Does gage run through computer.
06-13-2015, 12:14 AM
#5
Can the VATS read the key ok, allow starter to engage but still not signal computer to allow injectors to work.
I believe computer has been reprogramed at some point. Car has Lingenfelter throttle body. K and N air cleaner. Taylor racing wires. NOS Nitrous system with NOS inline fuel pump pressure booster. Borla Stainless steel exhaust. I by passed the fuel pump booster when I put new fuel pump in tank. Lines were badly dry rotted
I believe computer has been reprogramed at some point. Car has Lingenfelter throttle body. K and N air cleaner. Taylor racing wires. NOS Nitrous system with NOS inline fuel pump pressure booster. Borla Stainless steel exhaust. I by passed the fuel pump booster when I put new fuel pump in tank. Lines were badly dry rotted
06-13-2015, 09:18 AM
#6
The fuel pump should run for two seconds when you turn the key on. Get a fuel pressure gauge and let us know what you see.
Last edited by antfarmer2; 06-13-2015 at 09:30 AM.
06-13-2015, 09:33 AM
#7
I by passed the fuel pump booster when I put new fuel pump in tank. Lines were badly dry rotted.
Do you mean fuel pump relay?
Do you mean fuel pump relay?
06-13-2015, 10:39 AM
#8
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Aug 1999
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Turn the ignition On.
Look at the speedometer LCD
Any DTC's will be displayed.
Module 1 is the CCM
Module 4 is the PCM
Module 9 is the ABS/TCS
Module A is the air bag
C12 or --- Are not errors.
When you turn the ignition key to On the CCM reads the key pellet resistance. If it's correct the CCM grounds the control side of the starter theft deterrent relay. The CCM also does a password exchange routine with the PCM. If the exchange is successful the PCM shouldl pulse the injectors.
After the CCM is done displaying any DTC's 1.0 will display.
Press the Trip/Odo button until you see 1.3
Press Eng/Met and you should see 01 1 displayed.
This indicates for parameter 01 a 1 is set and pulsing of the injectors is enabled.
0 would indicate there is a failure and a DTC for the PCM or ECM should be set.
If you see a 1 and the injectors don't pulse you need to verify
all of the ground wires used for PCM.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Unplug the PCM Red, Gray and Blue connectors.
At the wiring harness connector measure the resistance of the following pins to the negative battery terminal cable. Should be close to zero ohms.
Red connector pins 2 and 18 (Black/White wires).
Gray connector pin 32 (Black/White wire).
Blue connector pin 1 (Black/White wire).
Last edited by Hooked on Vettes; 06-13-2015 at 06:03 PM.
06-13-2015, 12:40 PM
#9
Car has many performance additions. Nitrous, inline booster fuel pump from NOS Nitrous, Lingenfelter throttle body. Taylor racing plug wires.
K and N air cleaner. Borla Stainless steel performance exhaust and who knows what else was done to it.
06-13-2015, 12:45 PM
#10
No it had an in line booster pump under the gas tank. Had fuel lines re routed under tank to use both pumps. The re routed lines were dry rotted. So I hooked up the new in tank fuel pump directly to factory line. The way it came from factory.
Car has many performance additions. Nitrous, inline booster fuel pump from NOS Nitrous, Lingenfelter throttle body. Taylor racing plug wires.
K and N air cleaner. Borla Stainless steel performance exhaust and who knows what else was done to it.
Car has many performance additions. Nitrous, inline booster fuel pump from NOS Nitrous, Lingenfelter throttle body. Taylor racing plug wires.
K and N air cleaner. Borla Stainless steel performance exhaust and who knows what else was done to it.
06-27-2015, 04:25 AM
#11
Fuel pump comes on with every cycle of the key. Got 40lbs fuel pressure.
Noid light hooked to injector plug. Get weak flash sometimes and once in a while good flash. But most of the time no pulse on any injector plug.
Had ICM checked at Auto Zone today. Checked good.
Put another brand new Opti Spark in, complete unit including harness
No change.
Used jumper from pin 4 to pin 12 on obd plug. Got C12 code.
No history codes
Last edited by drifter5674; 06-27-2015 at 04:26 AM. Reason: used wrong number
07-09-2015, 12:06 AM
#12
Take a piece of wire and connect pin 4 to pin 12 on the diagnostic connector. (OBD II connector).
Turn the ignition On.
Look at the speedometer LCD
Any DTC's will be displayed.
Module 1 is the CCM
Module 4 is the PCM
Module 9 is the ABS/TCS
Module A is the air bag
C12 or --- Are not errors.
When you turn the ignition key to On the CCM reads the key pellet resistance. If it's correct the CCM grounds the control side of the starter theft deterrent relay. The CCM also does a password exchange routine with the PCM. If the exchange is successful the PCM shouldl pulse the injectors.
After the CCM is done displaying any DTC's 1.0 will display.
Press the Trip/Odo button until you see 1.3
Press Eng/Met and you should see 01 1 displayed.
This indicates for parameter 01 a 1 is set and pulsing of the injectors is enabled.
0 would indicate there is a failure and a DTC for the PCM or ECM should be set.
If you see a 1 and the injectors don't pulse you need to verify
all of the ground wires used for PCM.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Unplug the PCM Red, Gray and Blue connectors.
At the wiring harness connector measure the resistance of the following pins to the negative battery terminal cable. Should be close to zero ohms.
Red connector pins 2 and 18 (Black/White wires).
Gray connector pin 32 (Black/White wire).
Blue connector pin 1 (Black/White wire).
Turn the ignition On.
Look at the speedometer LCD
Any DTC's will be displayed.
Module 1 is the CCM
Module 4 is the PCM
Module 9 is the ABS/TCS
Module A is the air bag
C12 or --- Are not errors.
When you turn the ignition key to On the CCM reads the key pellet resistance. If it's correct the CCM grounds the control side of the starter theft deterrent relay. The CCM also does a password exchange routine with the PCM. If the exchange is successful the PCM shouldl pulse the injectors.
After the CCM is done displaying any DTC's 1.0 will display.
Press the Trip/Odo button until you see 1.3
Press Eng/Met and you should see 01 1 displayed.
This indicates for parameter 01 a 1 is set and pulsing of the injectors is enabled.
0 would indicate there is a failure and a DTC for the PCM or ECM should be set.
If you see a 1 and the injectors don't pulse you need to verify
all of the ground wires used for PCM.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Unplug the PCM Red, Gray and Blue connectors.
At the wiring harness connector measure the resistance of the following pins to the negative battery terminal cable. Should be close to zero ohms.
Red connector pins 2 and 18 (Black/White wires).
Gray connector pin 32 (Black/White wire).
Blue connector pin 1 (Black/White wire).
PCM indicates C 12
No history codes.
1.3 indicates 01 1 injectors ready
Still no pulse. Checked with noid light
PCM bad?
07-09-2015, 12:26 AM
#13
Are the fuses good
Last edited by antfarmer2; 07-09-2015 at 12:36 AM.
07-09-2015, 11:02 AM
#14
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Aug 1999
Location: Baltimore, MD USA
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Attach a fuel pressure gauge.
What happens if you turn the ignition On and manually ground one of the injector wires for a fraction of a second?
Example if you back probe the injector connector a cylinder 5.
The connector has a Pink wire and is the 12 volt source.
Ground the Black/Wire for a fraction of a second.
The injector should spray fuel.
If you don't have the fuel rail pulled up you should see the fuel
pressure on the gauge drop. Don't do this to many times unless you crank the engine because fuel should be dumping into the cylinder.
Verify your Throttle position voltage is some where in the .4 - .8 volts
DC range when the throttle is closed and over 4.8 when fully open.
TPS has 3 wires.
Use sewing needles to pierce wire insulation.
Turn ignition On.
Black is ground
Gray is 5 volt reference
Dark Blue is signal voltage.
Measure from Black wire to Gray wire. Should be 5 volts DC.
Measure from Black wire to Dark Blue wire. With throttle body
closed should be around .4 to .8 volts DC.
Manually open throttle body voltage should smoothly increase
to around 4.8 or more.
If something is wrong with the TPS could be the PCM is in clear flood mode and won't pulse the injectors.
Ideal situation would be to use a hand held scanner or scanner software and verify what the injector pulse width is when cranking the engine. The pulse width should not be zero.
Last edited by Hooked on Vettes; 07-09-2015 at 11:05 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Todd Osgood (02-05-2017)
07-16-2015, 01:00 PM
#16
You said you have the fuel rails lifted up so if the noid light flashed you should see fuel spray out of the injectors.
Attach a fuel pressure gauge.
What happens if you turn the ignition On and manually ground one of the injector wires for a fraction of a second?
Example if you back probe the injector connector a cylinder 5.
The connector has a Pink wire and is the 12 volt source.
Ground the Black/Wire for a fraction of a second.
The injector should spray fuel.
If you don't have the fuel rail pulled up you should see the fuel
pressure on the gauge drop. Don't do this to many times unless you crank the engine because fuel should be dumping into the cylinder.
Verify your Throttle position voltage is some where in the .4 - .8 volts
DC range when the throttle is closed and over 4.8 when fully open.
TPS has 3 wires.
Use sewing needles to pierce wire insulation.
Turn ignition On.
Black is ground
Gray is 5 volt reference
Dark Blue is signal voltage.
Measure from Black wire to Gray wire. Should be 5 volts DC.
Measure from Black wire to Dark Blue wire. With throttle body
closed should be around .4 to .8 volts DC.
Manually open throttle body voltage should smoothly increase
to around 4.8 or more.
If something is wrong with the TPS could be the PCM is in clear flood mode and won't pulse the injectors.
Ideal situation would be to use a hand held scanner or scanner software and verify what the injector pulse width is when cranking the engine. The pulse width should not be zero.
Attach a fuel pressure gauge.
What happens if you turn the ignition On and manually ground one of the injector wires for a fraction of a second?
Example if you back probe the injector connector a cylinder 5.
The connector has a Pink wire and is the 12 volt source.
Ground the Black/Wire for a fraction of a second.
The injector should spray fuel.
If you don't have the fuel rail pulled up you should see the fuel
pressure on the gauge drop. Don't do this to many times unless you crank the engine because fuel should be dumping into the cylinder.
Verify your Throttle position voltage is some where in the .4 - .8 volts
DC range when the throttle is closed and over 4.8 when fully open.
TPS has 3 wires.
Use sewing needles to pierce wire insulation.
Turn ignition On.
Black is ground
Gray is 5 volt reference
Dark Blue is signal voltage.
Measure from Black wire to Gray wire. Should be 5 volts DC.
Measure from Black wire to Dark Blue wire. With throttle body
closed should be around .4 to .8 volts DC.
Manually open throttle body voltage should smoothly increase
to around 4.8 or more.
If something is wrong with the TPS could be the PCM is in clear flood mode and won't pulse the injectors.
Ideal situation would be to use a hand held scanner or scanner software and verify what the injector pulse width is when cranking the engine. The pulse width should not be zero.
Injectors will spray when grounded. Checked throttle position sensor. It checks good.
Here is another clue to the puzzle.
Noid light will flash and engine will fire off for a few seconds after negative battery cable has been left off over night. Engine dies and noid light stops flashing. Cycle will repeat only after negative cable left off overnight.
07-16-2015, 10:41 PM
#17
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Aug 1999
Location: Baltimore, MD USA
Posts: 2,240
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Disconnect the MAF sensor connector and see if you have injector pulse.
If no pulse, with MAF plug still disconnected.
Unplug the Engine Coolant temperature sensor (on water pump) and see if you have injector pulse. (This simulates cold temperature).
If still no go plug the connectors back into the MAF and ECT sensors.
At the MAP sensor there are 3 wires.
Black wire is ground.
Gray wire is 5 volt reference
Green wire is the MAP sensor signal sent to the PCM.
You can unplug the connector.
Turn the ignition On.
Verify you have 5 volts from the Black wire to the Gray wire.
Turn ignition OFF
Reconnect the connector.
With a sewing needle pierce the Green wire and Black wire.
Turn ignition On.
Measure the voltage from the Green wire to the Black wire.
Should be a high voltage which will depend on where you live. (altitude).
Here's a chart that shows the voltage of the MAP sensor with different inches of vacuum.
If still no go I'd say the PCM is bad. From your description of disconnecting and reconnecting the battery it could be some leaky electrolytic capacitors on the PCM circuit board. You could pull the circuit board out and look for any leaking electrolytic caps or caps with a bulge in them.
*******************************
Doing all these test may set some codes.
********************************
Last edited by Hooked on Vettes; 07-16-2015 at 10:44 PM.
07-21-2015, 02:06 PM
#18
I checked Map sensor today Has 5 volts unplugged from sensor.
Volt meter reads 4.8 volts signal to computer. Ambient temp here approx. 90 degrees.
Checked air inlet temp power at sensor plug.
4.9 volts unplugged from sensor.
Reads 3.36 volts plugged to sensor.
Signal wire to computer reads 3.36 volts also.
Rechecked throttle position sensor. TPS has 5 volts power.
Signal wire reads .59 throttle closed and changes smoothly to 4.03 as you open throttle.
Checked water pump sensor voltage 4.9 volts.
I took computer to electronics shop. Checked and soldered usual problem areas.
Checked all injector ohms all read 12.6
No change same results. Injectors pulse will for about 3 seconds and then nothing till ground cable left off of battery over night.
I found a used PCM with matching number to mine on line. Posting says for a manual transmission. Mine is Automatic. Will that make any difference?
Will I have to disable vats to put a used computer on my car?
I also ordered vette repair manual and electronic injector book today.
Got any other ideas.
Thanks for all the help.
Danny
QUOTE=Hooked on Vettes;1590066344]
Disconnect the MAF sensor connector and see if you have injector pulse.
If no pulse, with MAF plug still disconnected.
Unplug the Engine Coolant temperature sensor (on water pump) and see if you have injector pulse. (This simulates cold temperature).
If still no go plug the connectors back into the MAF and ECT sensors.
At the MAP sensor there are 3 wires.
Black wire is ground.
Gray wire is 5 volt reference
Green wire is the MAP sensor signal sent to the PCM.
You can unplug the connector.
Turn the ignition On.
Verify you have 5 volts from the Black wire to the Gray wire.
Turn ignition OFF
Reconnect the connector.
With a sewing needle pierce the Green wire and Black wire.
Turn ignition On.
Measure the voltage from the Green wire to the Black wire.
Should be a high voltage which will depend on where you live. (altitude).
Here's a chart that shows the voltage of the MAP sensor with different inches of vacuum.
If still no go I'd say the PCM is bad. From your description of disconnecting and reconnecting the battery it could be some leaky electrolytic capacitors on the PCM circuit board. You could pull the circuit board out and look for any leaking electrolytic caps or caps with a bulge in them.
*******************************
Doing all these test may set some codes.
********************************
[/QUOTE]
Volt meter reads 4.8 volts signal to computer. Ambient temp here approx. 90 degrees.
Checked air inlet temp power at sensor plug.
4.9 volts unplugged from sensor.
Reads 3.36 volts plugged to sensor.
Signal wire to computer reads 3.36 volts also.
Rechecked throttle position sensor. TPS has 5 volts power.
Signal wire reads .59 throttle closed and changes smoothly to 4.03 as you open throttle.
Checked water pump sensor voltage 4.9 volts.
I took computer to electronics shop. Checked and soldered usual problem areas.
Checked all injector ohms all read 12.6
No change same results. Injectors pulse will for about 3 seconds and then nothing till ground cable left off of battery over night.
I found a used PCM with matching number to mine on line. Posting says for a manual transmission. Mine is Automatic. Will that make any difference?
Will I have to disable vats to put a used computer on my car?
I also ordered vette repair manual and electronic injector book today.
Got any other ideas.
Thanks for all the help.
Danny
QUOTE=Hooked on Vettes;1590066344]
Disconnect the MAF sensor connector and see if you have injector pulse.
If no pulse, with MAF plug still disconnected.
Unplug the Engine Coolant temperature sensor (on water pump) and see if you have injector pulse. (This simulates cold temperature).
If still no go plug the connectors back into the MAF and ECT sensors.
At the MAP sensor there are 3 wires.
Black wire is ground.
Gray wire is 5 volt reference
Green wire is the MAP sensor signal sent to the PCM.
You can unplug the connector.
Turn the ignition On.
Verify you have 5 volts from the Black wire to the Gray wire.
Turn ignition OFF
Reconnect the connector.
With a sewing needle pierce the Green wire and Black wire.
Turn ignition On.
Measure the voltage from the Green wire to the Black wire.
Should be a high voltage which will depend on where you live. (altitude).
Here's a chart that shows the voltage of the MAP sensor with different inches of vacuum.
If still no go I'd say the PCM is bad. From your description of disconnecting and reconnecting the battery it could be some leaky electrolytic capacitors on the PCM circuit board. You could pull the circuit board out and look for any leaking electrolytic caps or caps with a bulge in them.
*******************************
Doing all these test may set some codes.
********************************
[/QUOTE]
07-21-2015, 05:30 PM
#19
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Aug 1999
Location: Baltimore, MD USA
Posts: 2,240
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You would need to have the replacement PCM reprogrammed for an automatic.
I would think with an manual trans program the engine would still start.
If you're a do it your self-er you can purchase the Tuner Cat LT1 kit around $160.00
They sell three kits for the LT1. One for the 12 diag. connector and one for the 16 pin OBD1 connector which is the one you need, or a kit with a Y cable that has both connectors.
The kit allows you to read your current Binary file and save it. Install the replacement PCM and save it's Binary file. Then re-program the replacement PCM with your original Binary file.
The software also allows you to modify the Binary file to change air fuel ratios, radiator fan on off temperatures etc..
No need to change any VAT's parameters.
When you re-flash the computer if anything goes wrong like you lose power to the pc or laptop or the data for some reason is corrupt, it will make the PCM useless and would have to be sent out for repair.
Or start a new post with your location and you may find some one with a 94 or 95 to verify
if your PCM injector pulse is the problem. I know the 95 Corvette bin is different from the 94 but the PCM should still start the engine.
http://www.tunercat.com/cables/lt1kit.html
.
I would think with an manual trans program the engine would still start.
If you're a do it your self-er you can purchase the Tuner Cat LT1 kit around $160.00
They sell three kits for the LT1. One for the 12 diag. connector and one for the 16 pin OBD1 connector which is the one you need, or a kit with a Y cable that has both connectors.
The kit allows you to read your current Binary file and save it. Install the replacement PCM and save it's Binary file. Then re-program the replacement PCM with your original Binary file.
The software also allows you to modify the Binary file to change air fuel ratios, radiator fan on off temperatures etc..
No need to change any VAT's parameters.
When you re-flash the computer if anything goes wrong like you lose power to the pc or laptop or the data for some reason is corrupt, it will make the PCM useless and would have to be sent out for repair.
Or start a new post with your location and you may find some one with a 94 or 95 to verify
if your PCM injector pulse is the problem. I know the 95 Corvette bin is different from the 94 but the PCM should still start the engine.
http://www.tunercat.com/cables/lt1kit.html
.
Last edited by Hooked on Vettes; 07-21-2015 at 05:46 PM.
07-21-2015, 05:55 PM
#20
At this point I will likely buy the used computer and the program you metioned.
Remans are unavailable. I have checked many places.
If I had a reman will the program you mentioned allow me to program a reman computer if I could find one?
I think my computer has been program modified. Car has many other performance additions.
Will I be able to save the programming from my computer to transfer to another?
After the last tests. I have history codes Mod. 4 H18 H34 H15. Mod.9 H64 H72 H73.
I pulled the speed sensor plug on transmission and tried starting with it unplugged. Speed sensor is wet with fluid and leaking.
I tested injector harness with noid lights with all injectors unplugged. I get about 3 seconds of injector pulse then it stops. Turn of ignition and try again one bright flash from both banks at same time then nothing.
It will reset about every 2 hours with battery connected and will repeat same results.
Remans are unavailable. I have checked many places.
If I had a reman will the program you mentioned allow me to program a reman computer if I could find one?
I think my computer has been program modified. Car has many other performance additions.
Will I be able to save the programming from my computer to transfer to another?
After the last tests. I have history codes Mod. 4 H18 H34 H15. Mod.9 H64 H72 H73.
I pulled the speed sensor plug on transmission and tried starting with it unplugged. Speed sensor is wet with fluid and leaking.
I tested injector harness with noid lights with all injectors unplugged. I get about 3 seconds of injector pulse then it stops. Turn of ignition and try again one bright flash from both banks at same time then nothing.
It will reset about every 2 hours with battery connected and will repeat same results.
You would need to have the replacement PCM reprogrammed for an automatic.
I would think with an manual trans program the engine would still start.
If you're a do it your self-er you can purchase the Tuner Cat LT1 kit around $160.00
They sell three kits for the LT1. One for the 12 diag. connector and one for the 16 pin OBD1 connector which is the one you need, or a kit with a Y cable that has both connectors.
The kit allows you to read your current Binary file and save it. Install the replacement PCM and save it's Binary file. Then re-program the replacement PCM with your original Binary file.
The software also allows you to modify the Binary file to change air fuel ratios, radiator fan on off temperatures etc..
No need to change any VAT's parameters.
When you re-flash the computer if anything goes wrong like you lose power to the pc or laptop or the data for some reason is corrupt, it will make the PCM useless and would have to be sent out for repair.
http://www.tunercat.com/cables/lt1kit.html
.
I would think with an manual trans program the engine would still start.
If you're a do it your self-er you can purchase the Tuner Cat LT1 kit around $160.00
They sell three kits for the LT1. One for the 12 diag. connector and one for the 16 pin OBD1 connector which is the one you need, or a kit with a Y cable that has both connectors.
The kit allows you to read your current Binary file and save it. Install the replacement PCM and save it's Binary file. Then re-program the replacement PCM with your original Binary file.
The software also allows you to modify the Binary file to change air fuel ratios, radiator fan on off temperatures etc..
No need to change any VAT's parameters.
When you re-flash the computer if anything goes wrong like you lose power to the pc or laptop or the data for some reason is corrupt, it will make the PCM useless and would have to be sent out for repair.
http://www.tunercat.com/cables/lt1kit.html
.