colter

On mine, had some oil leaks from the A/C. Out the schrader looking valve. And also sometimes the front seal on the compressor slings some oil some times.

Was looking at having it sucked out to see how much R12 is still in there and to fill it back up with oil. May even do a flush. A shop said they have some Freeze 12, that I could use it to fill it back up with if I'm low on R12. Not sure if Freeze 12 is any good though.

Or I'd have to change over to the R134.

What do you guys usually do? Stay with R12 and use something like Freeze 12. Or go ahead and change to R134? Is the compressor on the 89 alright to be using R134 with?

crowz

I have 134a in my 87 and I had 134a in my 86. Works fine. Just make sure you purchase a conversion kit to do the job with.

antfarmer2

R12 is colder and you can buy some replacement and the tool to change the shrader valve tool so you won't loose freon off fleabay for under $50. Your oil sling might just be the clutch.

colter

Thought of looking for R12. Yeah, I'd need to replace that shrader valve as it leaks. I guess there are R12 shrader valves available?

If I stick with R12, do I also have to replace the accumulator and orifice?

And anyone know the system capacity for freon?

antfarmer2

Yes you can get the valves and if it works at all you will only need a can two at the most. You can fix it yourself for $100 and still have the tools. Better than getting bent over with another's tool.

antfarmer2

Here you go!!!!

I too researched before taking this on, and did as was mentioned above...watching century auto air's video on seal replacement, as well as reviewing the procedure in my FSM. I got my tool kit off of ebay. In fact, here's a link to a BluePoint set (Snap-On) that I would buy right now if I needed it, because at $50 it's a steal!

GM Blue Point ACT 1269 Compressor Service Tool Remover Installer" target="_blank">GM Blue Point ACT 1269 Compressor Service Tool Remover Installer


GM Blue Point ACT 1269 Compressor Service Tool Remover Installer" target="_blank"> <font color=GM Blue Point ACT 1269 Compressor Service Tool Remover Installer" border="0" />
GM Blue Point ACT 1269 Compressor Service Tool Remover Installer" target="_blank">GM Blue Point ACT 1269 Compressor Service Tool Remover Installer



This is the seal I purchased and used:

AC GM Compressor Lip Shaft Seal R4 V5 HD6 HR6 HR6HE DA6 HT6 A/C DOUBLE LIP" target="_blank">AC GM Compressor Lip Shaft Seal R4 V5 HD6 HR6 HR6HE DA6 HT6 A/C DOUBLE LIP


AC GM Compressor Lip Shaft Seal R4 V5 HD6 HR6 HR6HE DA6 HT6 A/C DOUBLE LIP" target="_blank"> <font color=AC GM Compressor Lip Shaft Seal R4 V5 HD6 HR6 HR6HE DA6 HT6 A/C DOUBLE LIP" border="0" />
AC GM Compressor Lip Shaft Seal R4 V5 HD6 HR6 HR6HE DA6 HT6 A/C DOUBLE LIP" target="_blank">AC GM Compressor Lip Shaft Seal R4 V5 HD6 HR6 HR6HE DA6 HT6 A/C DOUBLE LIP



This job can be done WITHOUT removing the compressor from the car!! Look in your FSM (for my 1987 it's in section 1D) and you'll see there are step by step instructions for changing the seal. It's truly not difficult, and exponentially easier than changing out the compressor.

colter

I think yours is different. My 89 has the Nippondenso compressor. Not an R4 or R6 of the earlier years.

antfarmer2

I am sure it is mine is a 94 this is just info I found in here to get you a idea.

colter

Looks like changing the front shaft seal on a Nippondenso 10PA compressor requires you to take the whole thing apart and reseal the whole thing i.e. rebuild with all new seals.

antfarmer2

Is it leaking there or just your clucth going?

colter

I added a video to my earlier post of someone changing the front shaft seal on Nippondenso 10PA.

But I'm guessing the clutch is fine. What's going on is I noticed the front compressor (where clutch is) is slinging oil on the backside of of the hood. Though a while back looks like it quit slinging the oil.

So I figured it's probably low on freon and oil. But it had been doing that for a while. May just need to go ahead and tear the compressor apart to replace that seal. I had planned on just refilling it with freon and oil for the time being. My luck I'd tear the compressor apart and something would be wrong with it requiring a new compressor and a bunch of other things.

I'd say if I did that and change the schrader valve, I'd need something to suck out the freon/oil with before tearing into the system. To keep from having to drive it with the belt removed from having a shop suck the freon out.

antfarmer2

With the freon out the clutch will not engauge no problem there and am thinking your seal might be fine might just be your clutch going bad that I believe you can change with the compressure on lets see what others say.

colter

The clutch engages.

I don't think the clutch has anything to do with leaking oil. Long time ago I took the clutch off, and you could see oil sitting inside the tube part on the front of the compressor housing. So I believe the front shaft seal is leaking, and it works it's way to the clutch, and then the clutch slings it all over the place.

So only leaks I can see is crud accumulating around the schrader valve, and the front shaft seal on the compressor leaking.

I may see about collecting some R12 cans first. And then taking the compressor apart to replace the seals and orings, and while doing that replace the schrader valve.

I thought you couldn't drive the car with the A/C out of freon. i.e. if I took it to a shop to suck out the freon then drive it back to remove compressor. But I've read you just have to unplug the clutch, and then you can drive it even if the A/C is out of freon and oil and it won't damage the compressor any.

Reason I'd look at getting the R12 first before tearing into the compressor is because I'd have to oil the compressor up before installing it and so don't want to use something like mineral oil, then having to change over to R134 later on or something.

antfarmer2

You can change the shrader valves without looseing freon.

colter

I'll have to look into it. Looks like there is a special tool or something to change out the valve.

antfarmer2

Yes mine can change any shrader valve with out loosing pressure.

Dakotaz

Normally the clutch will not engage if too low on R12.I am guessing that if it is out of oil and still has Freon it will run but that is a guess on my part. Hopefully someone with more experience will speak up. Mine was low on 134A and I had to reset the AC by removing two fuses to get the clutch to engage so I could add more 134A.

colter

It had been leaking for a while. So planned on adding new freon and oil into it. Never did have it serviced since I'd assume it has R12 in it. Was checking if it's better to try and stick with R12 or go to R134. But looks like changing to R134 is a lot more of a problem than finding R12. So I figured I'd try and get some R12 if it doesn't cost too much. Just have to hope the PO didn't cheap out and change it to R134 and not change out the fittings to R134. As I'll have to assume it's got R12 and I'd guess mineral oil in it.

Then I figured maybe it's best to go ahead and fix the leaking compressor. So I'll probably look into doing that as well as taking the compressor apart doesn't look like too much trouble. Just have to hope I don't find metal shavings inside.

I'd just have to figure out how to remove the freon for the time being.

colter

Looks like you may have to switch to R134 anyways if there is no shop that will touch R12 or don't have the R12 equipment anymore. It is funny when a shop tells you R12 is illegal and they aren't allowed to touch it.

desertmike1

This makes it a better reason to dissemble the 10PA, and drain out the old Mineral oil, the new replacement seals will be compatible with R134/Pag oil.. I had mine apart several years ago, and it is a really easy job..