antfarmer2

I would pump it up then have some help to clamp off the rubber line from the tank if it holds it is the fuel pump or the line in the tank. If it does not hold then it is your injectors or fpr. Pull the vacumme line off the fpr and smell for gas.

s carter

you can pull your injector rails fairly easily. and see which Injectors are leaking and how bad. (last step)

when you cycle the key your getting the prime (jumps up)and I your case drops off quickly, now if you keep cranking does the pressure stay up while cranking?

also if you disconnect each injector lead (pull the plugs on each/all injectors)does it start briefly?

ruby1993red

I have not had a chance to do more testing. I will soon.

ruby1993red

No chance yet but will soon.

BTURBOR

I have had similar experiences, after new pump, opti, etc. diagnosed through the FSM........ found that GM had expected the ECM to cycle 5-6 years........ this from the Guru...... MR. Killibrew..... after sending the ECM to K&B.... got it back and WOW, 3 revolutions and have not looked back, this was done last year, runs great, so my 0.02 cents is after following the FSM, ( which I am not going to quote here) and all is not Kosher, take a look at the ECM. What I have found is the FSM is invaluable, there are many anomalies that contribute to a no start.....great info from many folks...... I do wish you much good hunting.

Purple92

40 psi of fuel pressure is a bit on the low side - but it's enough to get the car to run. As you thought the leak down rate is not good - if the fuel is leaking back to the tank - it's an issue, but not a real major one - the car should at least run - if it's leaking into the engine - chances are that you have found your problem. (The electric fuel pump is capable of supplying enough fuel to supply the 300 HP engine - so even if there is a leak - as long as the "leak" ends up putting fuel into the tank (not into the engine) the fuel pump can pump fuel fast enough to maintain pressure with the leak - the car will run).

I would suggest that as antfarmer2 and s carter have posted - the next thing to do is to determine what the problem with the quick leak down is coming from. You can either pull all eight fuel injectors and see if one of more are leaking, or you can try to see if the fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump (check valve) are leaking. Bottom line - if the injectors aren't leaking fuel into the motor - and your fuel pump can maintain 40 psi while it's running - the fuel system doesn't seem to be the problem with the car not starting.

Hang in there and keep plugging away at it.

s carter

I just cant shake the feeling that we are dealing with a bad or weak coil, but without jumping to non proven Diagnostics here is a link I pulled from the Archives of the forum. its pretty straight forward and to the point.
a bit of an after thought make sure coolant temp sensor is plugged and working, as lame as it sounds it can effect the car running. soon after I changed out my coil very happy and proud that I was up and running my car Flashes SYS. and shuts down. dead again so I start shaking wires found Coolant Temp had backed out wire, probably caused with all the tugging while I testing Optispark and belt change, all is well now.

http://www.mainstreamtopics.com/foru...rt-diagnostic/

ruby1993red

I did not clamp the rubber line from the tank as I guess I have to do that from under the car by the tank. I have attached a picture of what I think is the FPR. I pulled of the vacuum line at this and there was no smell of gas. I smelled the engine oil again and it does smell of gas.

s carter

When your run problem has been found, CHANGE THE OIL and reset oil change monitor. if your not sure how to reset its such a common question its part of the sticky notes on the front page.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...oil-light.html

antfarmer2

You can pinch off the fuel line on the top of the tank and just a bit more work you can pull the pump and see if the line is cracked from the pump. But if no fuel in the oil sounding like ignition problem

ruby1993red

I have seen coil prices at advance Auto between 30 -40 bucks. Other sources go up in the hundreds of dollars. Any recommendations?

ruby1993red

Thanks for that tip.

s carter

I am sure many may have thier favorites but I threw a basic $30.00 one from auto zone do to being a little short on dollars and it came with a better warrantee and was cheaper than the A/C Delco, and haven't had any issues with it.

but I basically prefer A/C Delco

ruby1993red

Since the car does not run probably the cheap route would be the best choice right now just to see if that is the problem. Thank you.

s carter

when you install what ever coil you choose. you will be 2 screws away from replacing the ICM and when I changed my coil had to remove the ICM to get at the riveted coil bracket, So if you do pull the ICM and not replace it make sure NOT to wipe off the grease from under ICM unless you have some of the Special ICM grease, and you don't have it get it.

keep us posted,

Christi@n

to remove rubber line from gas tank, you have to do it from the top of the car, opening fuel door, remove filler neck boot...

ruby1993red

I purchased a coil from advance auto which was the easy part. I got the bolt and nut off the coil bracket but now I have to remove the one last bolt holding the power steering reservoir bracket on. I will try that one tomorrow. Any tips for getting at that lower bolt?

ruby1993red

Thanks for that tip.

s carter

there 2 bolts on the head, 1 bolt down on the block once you have gotten them out the power pump reservoir kind of stays stationary and the bracket slides down and out. it takes a bit of maneuvering but its not too tough.

aDigitalPhantom

It's not special, but it's not normal grease. It's thermal grease common at PC repair shops. The generic cheap stuff will work fine for this.

I would replace it because it does wear out, and lose it's ability to transfer heat.