whobub

This is perplexing to say the least--went to start & without warning:

1. Engine starts, but key won't turn it off--stuck I guess?
2. "Brake" light illuminates, but e- / parking brake not engaged
3. "Sys" light blinks constantly attempting to update dash status (i.e. miles remain)
4. NONE of the buttons work to turn fan or a/c on or off

There might be more, but these are the immediate observations. Car continues to run and not sure how to turn it off.

Is this having a major electrical meltdown? Or is it a single, simple event like the ignition/key unit?

Desperate to shut down engine, I disconnected the negative terminal at battery, turned ignition/key real quick (as one would do to start), could hear starter engage (grind the flywheel), but then it stopped engine. I guess it was sensing a power request to start, but there was no power with negative terminal disconnected.

Ihave the service manuals, but not sure where to start. Any clues out there with all you knowledgeable dudes / dude-ettes out there?

Jesse
(whobub)

THE 383 admiral

This Post may solve your Problem.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-turn-off.html

STH

My 1990 did this after I rebuilt the engine. Never could figure it out. Was going to do the diode trick at the alternator. But did some other work including replacing the large cap distributor with a small cap version. After the rewiring for the remote mount coil; to my surprise the key shutdown started working again. I think I had reversed the wires to the distributor, and corrected it when I installed the new one. So if you have done any major work to the top of the motor, look at the connections to the distributor.

Cliff Harris

If you disconnect the battery the engine will continue to run on the alternator voltage.

You can kill the engine by disconnecting the pink wire (power from the ignition switch) at the distributor cap.

You shouldn't be able to reverse the wires at the distributor cap unless you force them. They are both keyed and only go on one way. Tach toward the front and ignition (power) toward the rear.

whobub

This info is great, but some new info may be useful of some of my findings:

1. While engine is running (ignition locked/won't turn off), I can wiggle the key & the other electronics start working (fans start blowing from a/c & heater, dash lights behave normally), but key will still not turn off for removal.

2. On another occassion I did the above 'wiggle' and it was able to turn ignition off so as to remove the key--I have only been able to do this once however.

Would an ignition switch go belly up this fast, that is, without ANY issues or warning signs? Or am I focusing on the wrong component?

antfarmer2

Sure sound like you need a new one.

whobub

Ah yes....but with those "chipped" keys, it doesn't look all that straightforward. Or is it? I see in parts listed on RockAuto, it states:

"Cylinder comes with key for cutting template only, car will not start. Correct resistance key required"

In an earlier post the '383 Admiral' shared a link that was very helpful, but I'm still a bit confused. Mentions "VATS", and some information I needed, and my other searches on this forum are lame (that is, I am the problem, not having any luck finding, etc), so:

1. Has anyone actually done this recently?
2. Is the original key the "correct resistence key"?
3. Will it be as simple as replacing key switch & starting with existing key?
4. If new keys, how much to cut the new keys? With chips?

Confusing to me...especially how much $$ to set aside for this project--I'm sure it's not just the $25 - $30 for the key/ignition switch.

Thanks in advance for any pointers of previous discussions, links, or new advice.

antfarmer2

You can get the resistance off your key with a multi meter and buy the key off ebay cheap then have it cut to match the new ignition.



Just looked on ebay for you once you know your vats code they will send you everything for $77 shipping included cut and ready to install with two keys

Look on youtube to see how to find your vats code

whobub

Well, here it is nearly a year later without fixing this thing and the wife wants her C4 back on the road. 'Wish I could afford to get it done by the pros, but here's where I am:

Could not get resistance across the key's contact points
- tried all ohm settings, including the 2K setting
- no reading other than 1. (which I understand is "OL" on other meters

It seems all topics point to needing this reading in order to get going on this. Am I doing something wrong to get the resistance reading???

Thanks again for revisiting this topic.

WVZR-1

In your particular case I believe I'd take the key to a dealer and ask them to DROP THE KEY IN THEIR INTERROGATOR to get the resistance value. I don't see where you've ever mentioned the year of the car. Important? Maybe NOT but it might change the plan or questions you ask of the dealer!

You've many potential mechanical failures in the column.

whobub

Sorry, 1993 ZR1

WVZR-1

It's certainly very, very unlikely but you might ask the dealer to also do a KEY REQUEST for you. It would be coincidental that the mechanical codes would be returned with the original VATS resistance but stranger things have happened. Take registration and personal ID with you to the dealer.

whobub

How does that differ from the "Interrogator" you mentioned in your previous comment? Should I expect to pay them for this?

Cliff Harris

In my opinion it's FAR more likely that there is a problem with the ignition switch, which is mounted on the steering column down by the brake pedal. The ignition cylinder connects to it by a rod.

You should measure the key resistor on the 20K range.

whobub

This is all good info and thanks to all.

However, once I get past measuring the resistance on the key, I have to actually do the replacement. I've searched the Forum and there is only reference that I can find) to C5 or C6. Is there a specific one for the model of C4 years? Or do any of the experienced contributors/readers of this C4 Tech/Performance have a pointer to one elsewhere?

Much thanks again!

whobub

Update on VAT code: Took key to dealer (per Dave's / WVZR1 suggestion--thanks!) and they interrogated to be VAT code 13. So now off to buy the kit on eBay that 'Antfarmer' suggested early on in this topic (thanks Antfarmer!).

Still searching for procedure for C4 ignition/keylock replacement though. Anyone?? I found a reference that sounded great, but the domain no longer exists at www.domesticmisfits.com ). Maybe that ended up somewhere else.

WVZR-1

You first need to confirm that maybe you don't have maybe just a jammed "pin/tumbler", an ignition switch that needs adjusted or a failure of the mechanical rack/gear etc. Buying the eBay stuff doesn't maybe accomplish a thing. Had you ever used any lock cylinder lube to maybe free the mechanical in the cylinder. I'd maybe have the dealer make you a "work key" with the correct mechanical code and see if with some lube maybe you can free the cylinder. It's been done many times. GM PT# for the work key is 26007687. It will NOT crank the car buy you can use it to maybe diagnose further before taking the advice to just spend money "maybe foolishly on eBay".

Is your current key all BEAT UP?

whobub

No, key(s) are fine--one is still in the ignition, stuck when I wasn't able to turn key to 'off' position. There was no previous signs of key-turning difficulty, else I would have probably hit the key/switch with some dry lubricant (graphite no doubt).

I love the idea of the 'work key', but with the previously working real key stuck in the ignition, disassembly will no doubt be required to even get to the tumblers. Right?

WVZR-1

Not trying to be a smartazz but this car is an M6 so you need to depress the button to rotate to lock and remove key.

What I'd do is remove the knee bolster on the driver side and probably the metal reinforcement so that I could access the ignition switch and the rod that activates the ignition switch from the cylinder. I'd try to maybe "assist" the rod while depressing the button and attempting to rotate to LOCK.

You need to be careful buying the suggested parts on eBay. You need a correct cylinder with the "button release" and I doubt that most offer the choice.

You need to confirm the failure before buying anything ......... PERIOD

Will you ultimately need a cylinder and keys? Maybe but I'd exhaust all of the mechanical FIRST!!!

whobub

Well I HAVE made some progress!!! Sorry it takes so long for me to get to a project. Got the ignition/key cylinder & keys, removed steering wheel and the plethora of items needed to get the final torx screw to get the old (locked up) cylinder out.

Yes, the new unit seems to have fixed the locked key issue. However, one final hump I have to get over is to fish the new wire from the new unit down the steering wheel. With all those wires there I can't seem to get the new connector back down where it needs to go.

Before anyone chimes in--yes, I taped a wire onto the OLD wire as I pulled it up through the steering column to remove. Old unit is out just fine, but my "fish" wire seems to be hung up and am having trouble fishing new unit (wire connector) back down. Anyone have clues how to fish this final wire through that tight area of wires??