C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Turn signal and some lights not working

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Old 08-13-2015, 11:58 AM
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BooleanOnce
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Default Turn signal and some lights not working

Hello,

I have a 1985 Corvette and I have a few issues with the turn signal and lights. I'm thinking it's the flasher but there may be more to it.
  • The left turn signal works fine, but when I activate the right turn signal, the arrow on the dash doesn't blink, it will stay on continually.
  • The passenger side brake lights were not working. I replaced both bulbs, but now only the left light works (on the passenger side), while the right one does not work. If the turn signal is on, the left one stays on (doesn't flash), and the right one will not turn on at all. If the brakes are pressed, the left one stays on, and the right one will not turn on at all. Everything on the driver side works fine.
  • The hazard lights all work. All lights flash and the dash arrows flash too. The only light that doesn't work at all is the far-right brake light on the passenger side.
  • A similar issue happens in the front. If I turn on the right turn signal, the light will stay on, but it will not flash.

Thoughts?
Old 08-13-2015, 01:17 PM
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Hot Rod Roy
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That's a long explanation to say that the far right brake light bulb doesn't work! Is that boolean logic?
If you've already replaced that bulb, are you sure the bulb is installed correctly? Did you use any dielectric grease in the socket? Could the bulb be defective? It's a known fact this bulb is difficult to access, but it looks like you need to pull that light bulb again to check it out. Sorry!

Old 08-19-2015, 02:05 PM
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BooleanOnce
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Originally Posted by Hot Rod Roy
That's a long explanation to say that the far right brake light bulb doesn't work! Is that boolean logic?
If you've already replaced that bulb, are you sure the bulb is installed correctly? Did you use any dielectric grease in the socket? Could the bulb be defective? It's a known fact this bulb is difficult to access, but it looks like you need to pull that light bulb again to check it out. Sorry!

Thanks for the information. It looks like the socket itself is bad. Bulbs work in it fine, but only after I apply pressure to them and hold them there - and there's no way that I know of to keep the bulb in with that much pressure. The bulbs don't fall out or anything - it just seems like they're too loose to turn on.
I've used zip-ties and rubber bands to hold the bulb and socket together but they just won't stay on there. I also wrapped some aluminium tape around the base of the bulb so it could have a better hold but it did no good.

I scrapped the old grease off the socket and I applied 'Electrical Insulating Compound' to it and the end of the new bulb, but it didn't do much of anything.

I'm considering just buying a new socket, good idea?
Old 08-19-2015, 02:08 PM
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WVZR-1
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Originally Posted by BooleanOnce
I'm considering just buying a new socket, good idea?
I'd say it's the next best move and might have been the thing to do maybe a little earlier than some of the other attempts.
Old 08-19-2015, 03:33 PM
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Hot Rod Roy
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Originally Posted by BooleanOnce
It looks like the socket itself is bad.
There's a spring inside the socket that should keep the bulb tight. If the wires into the bottom of the socket are kinked, this spring can't do its job. Could it be that simple? Are the two contacts in the bottom of the socket clean? You are installing the bulb in the proper orientation, not 180 degrees rotated? You've probably noticed the offset pins on the bulb, but I had to ask!

What is "electrical insulating compound"? That doesn't sound like dielectric grease. You're trying to keep moisture out of the socket, not trying to prevent electrical continuity inside the socket.


Last edited by Hot Rod Roy; 08-19-2015 at 03:39 PM.
Old 08-19-2015, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Hot Rod Roy
There's a spring inside the socket that should keep the bulb tight. If the wires into the bottom of the socket are kinked, this spring can't do its job. Could it be that simple? Are the two contacts in the bottom of the socket clean? You are installing the bulb in the proper orientation, not 180 degrees rotated? You've probably noticed the offset pins on the bulb, but I had to ask!

What is "electrical insulating compound"? That doesn't sound like dielectric grease. You're trying to keep moisture out of the socket, not trying to prevent electrical continuity inside the socket.

I could be way wrong here BUT

I don't believe the C4 sockets are constructed in the fashion you're mentioning and that I remember well. I believe all of the C4 product were the newer 90* approach sockets that didn't have the phenolic disc, the spring and the rivet on wire contacts. You've got one so it's likely that you should know but I just can't place the earlier type with a spring being used here. Is there?
Old 08-19-2015, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
I could be way wrong here, BUT I don't believe the C4 sockets are constructed in the fashion you're mentioning . . .
The brake/tail light bulbs in the early C4's are 2057, which have the round bases with offset pins on the sides to assure proper brake/tail orientation. What is the part number for your ZR-1? I wouldn't be surprised if the later 'vette's use the more modern push-in base bulbs. The push-in bulbs don't require a special orientation. The new style bulbs work right regardless of orientation.

Old 08-19-2015, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Hot Rod Roy
The brake/tail light bulbs in the early C4's are 2057, which have the round bases with offset pins on the sides to assure proper brake/tail orientation. What is the part number for your ZR-1? I wouldn't be surprised if the later 'vette's use the more modern push-in base bulbs. The push-in bulbs don't require a special orientation. The new style bulbs work right regardless of orientation.

The bulbs in all C4's are the same but the sockets have a twist/lock and the wire is inserted at 90* to the bulb base. The tension is built into the metal aspect of the socket with no spring or rivet on wire.

This is a correct socket for any earlier C4, the construction changed again later in the production, maybe '94. Still 90* but different terminals and retention.

Amazon.com: 90° Pigtail & Socket Assembly 1154 & 1157 GM 12003759: Automotive Amazon.com: 90° Pigtail & Socket Assembly 1154 & 1157 GM 12003759: Automotive
Old 08-19-2015, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
The bulbs in all C4's are the same but the sockets have a twist/lock and the wire is inserted at 90* to the bulb base. The tension is built into the metal aspect of the socket with no spring or rivet on wire.
WV, you are right. I had to pull a tail light on mine to refresh my memory!



Originally Posted by BooleanOnce
Bulbs work in it fine, but only after I apply pressure to them and hold them there - and there's no way that I know of to keep the bulb in with that much pressure.
Boolean, is it possible you wern't twisting the bulb after pushing it into the socket to lock it in place? You mention that the bulb works when you push it in, but you don't say anything about twisting the bulb. If the bulb won't twist, rotate the bulb 180 in the socket and try again.

Old 08-20-2015, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Hot Rod Roy
WV, you are right. I had to pull a tail light on mine to refresh my memory!





Boolean, is it possible you wern't twisting the bulb after pushing it into the socket to lock it in place? You mention that the bulb works when you push it in, but you don't say anything about twisting the bulb. If the bulb won't twist, rotate the bulb 180 in the socket and try again.

Yeah, I'm an idiot. I now remember that I did twist it to get the old bulb out. I did try twisting the new one in, but it had some kind of build up in there that prevented me from doing so - and I forgot that twisting it in was necessary.

I just twisted the new bulb in, and works just like it should. Thanks guys. You just saved me time and money.

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