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Good Evening/Morning C4 LT-1 enthusiasts! I need to change the oil as my light has come on and the car has over 3k miles. I have the service manual that was written back in 1992 where it states that I need a PF51 oil filter. Fast forward to 2015 and I have learned that I need a PF52 (or equivalent). Below shows two different sizes to the same model filter.
My question is; what filter should I get? What filter do you use? How many quarts of oil do I need?(I have already purchased a case of 5-30 Mobil One full synthetic).
My plan is to take the parts to my local Jiffy Lube and have them do the oil change. I don't have the facilities here at my house to change it myself.
Please comment if you have any answers or concerns to my plan. Your time is appreciated
(In case you are wondering why I don't just take it to the dealer, I can't watch them work on my car. At Jiffy lube, I can watch the whole process, inspect the undercarriage etc.)
The AC Delco PF52 is the correct filter for your '92 and all of the LT1 and the LT4 engines. You will need 5 quarts of oil with a filter change. Are those your filters? I would go to one of the chain parts stores that carry AC Delco filters and open a PF52 box and measure the height of the filter to make sure which one of those two in the pic is correct.
If you have a Wal-Mart near you, they will have 5-quart jugs of Mobil-1 5W-30 full synthetic oil for around $26.
The last place I would go for an oil change is Jiffy Lube. Did you ask them if they will do an oil change using customer-supplied oil and filters? They may do that, but they will probably charge you the same price for an oil change.
At the shop where I work, over the last three years we have replaced 5 engines in cars that had an oil change done at a nearby Jiffy Lube. The engine failures were a direct result of the JL "techs" either not completely tightening the oil drain plug or getting it so tight that the threads were stripped and created a leak or oil filters were not properly tightened. On one engine, the oil filter fell off within a mile of the driver leaving Jiffy Lube. At least Jiffy Lube stepped up and took responsibility for the engine replacements.
Even at Jiffy Lube, they should lubricate the front suspension components Upper and lower ball joints and the outer tie rod ends. Make sure you reset the Engine Oil Life Monitor. That procedure is explained in the FSM and the Owner's Manual.
I use a K&N HP 2001 filter, expensive but my car deserves the best. Only put 41/2 Qts of Oil..More could cause an oil leak, ask me how i know......
Thank you for your time and comment! Per your instruction, I ask the question; how do you know placing more than 4.5 QTS of oil causes your car to leak?
You state you use a K & N filter because your car deserves the best. Did your Vette doing something heroic, how did you come to that determination??
The AC Delco PF52 is the correct filter for your '92 and all of the LT1 and the LT4 engines. You will need 5 quarts of oil with a filter change. Are those your filters? I would go to one of the chain parts stores that carry AC Delco filters and open a PF52 box and measure the height of the filter to make sure which one of those two in the pic is correct.
If you have a Wal-Mart near you, they will have 5-quart jugs of Mobil-1 5W-30 full synthetic oil for around $26.
The last place I would go for an oil change is Jiffy Lube. Did you ask them if they will do an oil change using customer-supplied oil and filters? They may do that, but they will probably charge you the same price for an oil change.
At the shop where I work, over the last three years we have replaced 5 engines in cars that had an oil change done at a nearby Jiffy Lube. The engine failures were a direct result of the JL "techs" either not completely tightening the oil drain plug or getting it so tight that the threads were stripped and created a leak or oil filters were not properly tightened. On one engine, the oil filter fell off within a mile of the driver leaving Jiffy Lube. At least Jiffy Lube stepped up and took responsibility for the engine replacements.
Even at Jiffy Lube, they should lubricate the front suspension components Upper and lower ball joints and the outer tie rod ends. Make sure you reset the Engine Oil Life Monitor. That procedure is explained in the FSM and the Owner's Manual.
Thank you for your time and comment!
No one likes the idea of taking their Vette to Jiffy lube, including myself. The reason I am thinking about doing it is, in the past(take all my DD to them) they have let me in the bay, allowed me to get under the car as they do the work. I can make sure all my parts are used and that the work is done correct. I currently ain't setup to change the oil at home. The Chevrolet dealership won't let me in the bay area. I have heard their techs are not a whole lot better than Jiffy Lube's. I don't mind paying for a straight up oil change and providing my parts. I may even tip the guy if he is enthusiastic about my presence.
I will go to a local parts store for the PF52 and compare sizes(pic is from the internet). I appreciate the tip!
I have purchased the oil from Costco already.
The consensuses is 5 Quarts(I look forward to seeing what Charliet615 has to say as well).
While I am thinking about it, where would you take your car if you were in my situation? (I live in Las Vegas, NV)
For my Corvette maintenance stuff, I have my own lift in my garage. I can do a variety of maintenance/repair tasks on both my '87 and '02 coupes.
A couple years ago, I bought a MaxJax 2-post lift from Costco and installed it in my garage.
Makes it a whole lot easier than using a floor jack, jack stands and low-crawling under the car...
I work part time at a local auto repair shop driving their courtesy shuttle. I get some pretty good discounts on work that I can't do at home. All of the techs are ASE-certified every year and nearly all of them have muscle cars or some other type of performance cars. Very experienced guys and I certainly trust them to work that I can't. I do have regular services done there on my Silverado as it's too big for the garage and the lift.
If you're interested in a lift so you can do some of you own work, Costco has the MaxJax on sale online for $1999 delivered.
Well accordling to my FSM, 4 1/2 quarts (with filter change) is what is recommended. I was putting 5 quarts in and noticed a oil leak soon after. I just thought my front seal was leaking. So, i changed the oil and only added 4 1/2 quarts this time and the leaking stopped. Go Figure...P.S. it's a 93. C4Cruiser, nice shop.....
Last edited by charliet615; 09-01-2015 at 03:44 PM.
There was a reported front seal oil leakage issue with some '92 LT1 engines. IIRC, GM issued a TSB about that and from what I remember, if somebody complained enough, the front seal would be replaced at no cost even if out of warranty.
I use Mobil 1 M1-201 extended performance oil filters and 5 full quarts of Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic motor oil. Adding 5 quarts at every oil change brings the oil level right up to the full mark on the LT1 dipstick, so it works great for me.
Not sure what you mean by not having "facilities" at your house. If you're in an apartment then surely one of your buddies has a place to do basic auto maintenance. If you are even slightly mechanically inclined, I suggest you start doing your own oil changes, for several reasons:
1) you may have to buy some tools up front but you will save money in the long run
2) you will know the job is done right the first time, building confidence in your ability
3) you are less likely to endure the painful experience of engine failure
4) you are less likely to ask Jiffy Lube for a new engine
and the best reason of all:
5) you might start doing other easy maintenance items, saving even more money and building more confidence in your ability... chassis lubes are super easy... transmission service (MT) and axle fluid changes also come to mind... the clutch and brake fluids must be bled periodically... practically anyone with a wrench and some willingness can perform these maintenance items.
I'm only trying to encourage you and I understand if it's just not possible to do your own work with your situation... in which case, just know that you can likely do these things
I use Mobil 1 M1-201 extended performance oil filters and 5 full quarts of Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic motor oil. Adding 5 quarts at every oil change brings the oil level right up to the full mark on the LT1 dipstick, so it works great for me.
Not sure what you mean by not having "facilities" at your house. If you're in an apartment then surely one of your buddies has a place to do basic auto maintenance. If you are even slightly mechanically inclined, I suggest you start doing your own oil changes, for several reasons:
1) you may have to buy some tools up front but you will save money in the long run
2) you will know the job is done right the first time, building confidence in your ability
3) you are less likely to endure the painful experience of engine failure
4) you are less likely to ask Jiffy Lube for a new engine
and the best reason of all:
5) you might start doing other easy maintenance items, saving even more money and building more confidence in your ability... chassis lubes are super easy... transmission service (MT) and axle fluid changes also come to mind... the clutch and brake fluids must be bled periodically... practically anyone with a wrench and some willingness can perform these maintenance items.
I'm only trying to encourage you and I understand if it's just not possible to do your own work with your situation... in which case, just know that you can likely do these things
DGXR, I appreciate your time, ability to inspire, good grammar skills and straight forward approach.
Truth be told, I can make the investment to change my own oil. When I bought my 1992 Corvette LT-1 Coupe in March, it was/is my goal to do as much as my own work as possible. To my credit, I have replaced a headlight motor, wipers(5 times*), replaced an A/C cabin vent, added a cup holder, added a center console cover, replaced the serpentine belt(kept the tool I rented from Autozone) and changed out the air filter. I have purchased the FSM's for the car. I have viewed the discipline of changing your own oil, as a service that the expense was justifiable due to it's mess and material removal. I am going to rethink my strategy.
*It took 5 different sets of wipers before I found the set that would fit under the hood.
I have always changed the oil in my C3's and C4's. Having a drive on lift that I do not use for oil changes, I use the removable drive on steel ramps and put them in front of the tires and drive up on them using the driveway in front of the garage. The cars are now high enough to use my floor jack. I put a 2/10 inch piece of wood on the lift to press against the front cross member. And raise the car to a good height so it enables all the oil to drain out of the oil pans rear drain. Not all the oil will drain from the oil pan with the car in a level configuration on my lifts. I use my lifts to store cars.
Last edited by 70ZZ3 96LT4; 09-01-2015 at 07:19 PM.
DGXR, I appreciate your time, ability to inspire, good grammar skills and straight forward approach.
I have viewed the discipline of changing your own oil, as a service that the expense was justifiable due to it's mess and material removal.
As with most of us here on CF, I'm happy to help you!
Changing oil is messy and time consuming only the first few times. You will develop a technique for jacking the car, moving parts and fluids in a certain way and preparing your tools and materials that reduces mess (and time) to a bare minimum. Keep a rag handy at all times. And for the love of God, please be sure the jack stands are in good condition and the car is perched securely on the stands before you crawl underneath. I give my vehicles a solid bump with my hip on both sides.
The last time I took used oil to Autozone for recycling, they paid me 10 cents per quart. I was shocked when the cashier handed me cash and a receipt! It may not be much, but I recycle used oil anyway... bonus for all us DIYers.
Just want to say that ramps and wheel chocks with the transmission in gear (manual) or park (auto) and the emergency brake set is a good way to change the oil. I've never trusted "Iffy Lube" since they messed up a radiator coolant change on my 1996 after swearing they knew the correct process.
I changed the oil on my new to me 1994 C4 last weekend. Picked up a 5qt. container of Mobil 1 from Walmart for $26 and a PF52 oil filter from them as well.
My ramps were to tall to get under the front of the car so I tried my floor jack. The floor jack was to tall as well so I got out my smaller floor jack and it was to tall to get under the car.
Ended up going to my neighbors house and barrowed his low profile 3 ton floor jack and that was what I needed.
I primed the filter before I put it on the car then added oil till I used 4 1/2 of the 5 quarts. The oil was 1/2 way between add and full so I added the rest of the oil for a total of 5 quarts. I ran the engine for about 30 seconds then shut it down and let it sit for 5 minutes and checked the oil level on the dip stick again and the oil was right at the full line.
My ramps were to tall to get under the front of the car so I tried my floor jack. The floor jack was to tall as well so I got out my smaller floor jack and it was to tall to get under the car.
Ended up going to my neighbors house and barrowed his low profile 3 ton floor jack and that was what I needed.
I went through this at the beginning of my Corvette experience. My solution was to cut a 3-foot section of 2x4 in half at a severe angle, creating 2 mini ramps. The front tires will roll onto these mini ramps with just a little rocking motion, no engine power necessary, I just make sure to stop the car when it's up (reach inside the window and grab the parking brake for this LOL). This gets the front end up just enough to fit the jack underneath.
And if someone is changing the oil once per year, they can just use the side rails to jack up the whole car in order to check the differential and MT fluids... and maybe bleed the brakes and clutch fluid as regular, cheap maintenance. The side rails are high enough for almost any jack.
[QUOTE=lances2000;1590394913]Thank you for your time and comment! Per your instruction, I ask the question; how do you know placing more than 4.5 QTS of oil causes your car to leak?
in my opinion yes it can
My 1995 owner manual even says to fill with 4.5 qts no more.
Last oil changed i filled in with 5 qts and now i leak oil a little from front crank seal, don't know before however was and don't know if is this the reason or other, anyway some oil is leaked out from there, and now seems not so frequently leaks as before, when engine runs oil level inside rise up a lot,
For my Corvette maintenance stuff, I have my own lift in my garage. I can do a variety of maintenance/repair tasks on both my '87 and '02 coupes.
A couple years ago, I bought a MaxJax 2-post lift from Costco and installed it in my garage.
Makes it a whole lot easier than using a floor jack, jack stands and low-crawling under the car...
I work part time at a local auto repair shop driving their courtesy shuttle. I get some pretty good discounts on work that I can't do at home. All of the techs are ASE-certified every year and nearly all of them have muscle cars or some other type of performance cars. Very experienced guys and I certainly trust them to work that I can't. I do have regular services done there on my Silverado as it's too big for the garage and the lift.
If you're interested in a lift so you can do some of you own work, Costco has the MaxJax on sale online for $1999 delivered.
Thank you for your time and comment! Per your instruction, I ask the question; how do you know placing more than 4.5 QTS of oil causes your car to leak?
in my opinion yes it can
My 1995 owner manual even says to fill with 4.5 qts no more.
Last oil changed i filled in with 5 qts and now i leak oil a little from front crank seal, don't know before however was and don't know if is this the reason or other, anyway some oil is leaked out from there, and now seems not so frequently leaks as before, when engine runs oil level inside rise up a lot,
This page is from the 1995 Corvette owner's manual:
Crankcase capacity for the LT1 (engine code P) is shown as 4.5 quarts with filter change. The manual does not say "no more than 4.5 quarts." It does say "Capacities (Approximate)," and "Recheck fluid level after filling." There's a reason we see the 5-quart oil jugs everywhere, and a stock LT1 takes 5 quarts to reach the FULL mark (with a standard-size oil filter).
What matters most is maintaining the oil level between the ADD and FULL marks on the dipstick (called the "safe zone"), and while I understand why you would run 4.5 quarts, your engine's oil leak may very well cause problems with maintaining the correct level. But obviously you are paying attention and staying on top of it.
I have run leak-free engines just above the ADD mark (in the safe zone) for a full interval and never had any problems. It is not necessary for the oil level to be at the FULL mark -- many people prefer it, and I do too, but I won't make a special trip to the parts store just for the 20 ounces of oil that brings it right up to the FULL mark. I understand that running less oil in the crankcase means less capacity for contaminant suspension, less additives and detergents to be used up during the interval, and less resistance to thermal breakdown (smaller quantity of oil for the same heat exposure), but if the engine is running good and the oil changes are being done regularly, with a good quality oil, these items won't be a problem either. Just my experience, YMMV.
You can change the oil without a lift or ramps. Just get a shallow oil drain pan and slide it under the car, lay on your back with your head pretty much up against the driver front tire and you should be able to reach the drain plug with a wrench or ratchet and then use an extension to loosen the drain plug by hand. Oil filter is a breeze. I change my oil once per year and do it this way, very easy car to change the oil on. Pour the used oil into an old milk jug or get a designated used oil container and take it back to advanced or autozone and dump it for free.
09-01-2015, 01:41 AM
Change Oil 1992 Coupe LT-1 (Advice requested)
Did you ask them if they will do an oil change using customer-supplied oil and filters? They may do that, but they will probably charge you the same price for an oil change.
At least Jiffy Lube stepped up and took responsibility for the engine replacements.
