93 LT1 runs rough when engine is warm
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
93 LT1 runs rough when engine is warm
Runs rough as it heats up. Idle is not smooth. Also, letting it sit for 10 minutes or more when engine is warm, it's hard starting. And, on a hard hot start, the car feels very weak. Idle is low based on what I always saw, about 800 rpm seem to be normal. But on the hard hot start, idle is at about 600 rpm.
Car has new:
Opti(last summer)
Taylor wires(month ago)
AC Delco plugs(last fall)
FIC Injectors, 24lb(2 weeks ago)
AC Delco FPR(January of 2015)
Coolant sensor(Summer of 2015)
Both O2 sensors(work fine based on the scan, replaced in May of this year)
I might be forgetting something, I will post if there is something missing.
EDIT, new Fuel Filter(about 2 months ago)
Oh, I'm lean on the left bank. BLM is 140-150. Almost spot on the right bank with BLM at 124.
So what can be causing my car to run rough when the engine is warm?
Here is a plug from cylinder number 3, just for the hell of it.
I've done everything I can, so I took it to a shop my family has been using for 20 years. Mechanic found an exhaust leak at the driver side exhaust manifold. He says the opti is the cause of the rough idle. I doubt it's the opti. Sorry for the long post. Car is a 93 LT1 auto with just under 79k miles. Hopefully I am making sense
When I turn the AC on, the idle is noticeably smoother.
Car has new:
Opti(last summer)
Taylor wires(month ago)
AC Delco plugs(last fall)
FIC Injectors, 24lb(2 weeks ago)
AC Delco FPR(January of 2015)
Coolant sensor(Summer of 2015)
Both O2 sensors(work fine based on the scan, replaced in May of this year)
I might be forgetting something, I will post if there is something missing.
EDIT, new Fuel Filter(about 2 months ago)
Oh, I'm lean on the left bank. BLM is 140-150. Almost spot on the right bank with BLM at 124.
So what can be causing my car to run rough when the engine is warm?
Here is a plug from cylinder number 3, just for the hell of it.
I've done everything I can, so I took it to a shop my family has been using for 20 years. Mechanic found an exhaust leak at the driver side exhaust manifold. He says the opti is the cause of the rough idle. I doubt it's the opti. Sorry for the long post. Car is a 93 LT1 auto with just under 79k miles. Hopefully I am making sense
When I turn the AC on, the idle is noticeably smoother.
Last edited by 1993C4LT1; 10-08-2015 at 11:55 PM.
#2
see if your looseing coolant, smack your egr and put some antizies on your plugs
#3
Le Mans Master
Did you have exhaust leak corrected? If not I needs to be done 1st. Exhaust leaks can cause O2s to read lean. You can try power balancing. while engine is running at idle disconnect IAC. Then disconnect injectors one at a time noticing RPM drop. You may weak cylinder if RPM doesn't change when injector is disconnected. Another possibility intake gasket not sealing causing vacuum leak. Bolts maybe loose.
Last edited by Kevova; 10-09-2015 at 02:23 PM.
#5
Race Director
Thread Starter
Did you have exhaust leak corrected? If not I needs to be done 1st. Exhaust leaks can cause O2s to read lean. You cant try power balancing. while engine is running disconnect IAC. Then disconnect injectors one at a time notice RPM drop. You may weak cylinder if RPM does change when injector is disconnected. Another possibility intake gasket not sealing causing vacuum leak. Bolts maybe loose.
Antfarmer, I don't have overheating problems. Car doesn't leak or burn coolant.
#6
Instructor
Based on others input on a Vacuum leak, I believe if the intake manifold gasket is bad there will be a leak there too.
The LT1 is prone to an intake gasket failure.
Check the back of the engine block for oil leaks.
A small leak here and a small leak there all become accumulative.
Regards,
Roy
The LT1 is prone to an intake gasket failure.
Check the back of the engine block for oil leaks.
A small leak here and a small leak there all become accumulative.
Regards,
Roy
#7
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2002
Location: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
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Any codes? Always check for codes first. Always use the diagnostics first. I like to look at vacuum so have a vac gauge installed right on the dash where most mount their tach. Any but a steady vac needle usually means cyl leakage of some type. But a misfire could make it shake some also.
U have some fancy spark plugs there. Did u have those before the rough running started. Try a return to stock plugs again. Measure the resistance of all your plug wires and look for arcing in the dark w/eng running.
Try a real time scan. I found a AutoXray scanner for my '94 OBD 1.5 at a swapmeet brand new in the box for $40. I can real time monitor most paramenters (cant print or store them though). I believe there is some "trial" software u can use if u have a cable for your OBD I connector and and laptop w/RS232 serial port.
Let us know how the exh leak changes things.
U have some fancy spark plugs there. Did u have those before the rough running started. Try a return to stock plugs again. Measure the resistance of all your plug wires and look for arcing in the dark w/eng running.
Try a real time scan. I found a AutoXray scanner for my '94 OBD 1.5 at a swapmeet brand new in the box for $40. I can real time monitor most paramenters (cant print or store them though). I believe there is some "trial" software u can use if u have a cable for your OBD I connector and and laptop w/RS232 serial port.
Let us know how the exh leak changes things.
#8
Race Director
Thread Starter
Based on others input on a Vacuum leak, I believe if the intake manifold gasket is bad there will be a leak there too.
The LT1 is prone to an intake gasket failure.
Check the back of the engine block for oil leaks.
A small leak here and a small leak there all become accumulative.
Regards,
Roy
The LT1 is prone to an intake gasket failure.
Check the back of the engine block for oil leaks.
A small leak here and a small leak there all become accumulative.
Regards,
Roy
#9
Race Director
Thread Starter
Any codes? Always check for codes first. Always use the diagnostics first. I like to look at vacuum so have a vac gauge installed right on the dash where most mount their tach. Any but a steady vac needle usually means cyl leakage of some type. But a misfire could make it shake some also.
U have some fancy spark plugs there. Did u have those before the rough running started. Try a return to stock plugs again. Measure the resistance of all your plug wires and look for arcing in the dark w/eng running.
Try a real time scan. I found a AutoXray scanner for my '94 OBD 1.5 at a swapmeet brand new in the box for $40. I can real time monitor most paramenters (cant print or store them though). I believe there is some "trial" software u can use if u have a cable for your OBD I connector and and laptop w/RS232 serial port.
Let us know how the exh leak changes things.
U have some fancy spark plugs there. Did u have those before the rough running started. Try a return to stock plugs again. Measure the resistance of all your plug wires and look for arcing in the dark w/eng running.
Try a real time scan. I found a AutoXray scanner for my '94 OBD 1.5 at a swapmeet brand new in the box for $40. I can real time monitor most paramenters (cant print or store them though). I believe there is some "trial" software u can use if u have a cable for your OBD I connector and and laptop w/RS232 serial port.
Let us know how the exh leak changes things.
#11
Le Mans Master
DTC 42 is more ICM - ECM thing. Ecm controls icm for spark control. Opti sends signals reference signals to ecm for FI. DTC 16 and 36 relate to opti
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1993C4LT1 (10-15-2015)
#12
Race Director
Thread Starter
Thanks. I figured codes 16 and 36 were opti related. Just double checking.
Do I use thermal, or di-electric grease?
What brand ICM do you guys recommend?
Just pulled this from the FSM. Hopefully to help someone in the future,lol
Do I use thermal, or di-electric grease?
What brand ICM do you guys recommend?
Just pulled this from the FSM. Hopefully to help someone in the future,lol
Last edited by 1993C4LT1; 10-15-2015 at 03:46 PM.
#14
Le Mans Master
It can and fouled plugs can cause hard starting. It is still possible to AC Delco for a little over 100.00 from rock auto. Look at connector first, use di-electric grease
#16
Instructor
It only requires a thin layer. For the record, dielectric grease and thermal paste are not interchangeable. Without the thermal paste you will cook the ICM. If I remember correctly, the FSM calls for thermal paste in between the block and ICM plate mount as well. It will not hurt in any way for sure.