digitalray

hello,

a week ago asr activated when starting the engine and since then it activates each time when starting and driving for just some feet. i have to stop and wait until asr light goes blank and most of the time i can drive normally after that situation and asr and abs work fine without a problem until i stop the engine.

it just happens right after starting the engine and even when in no gear!
i just press on the gas pedal and asr comes on.

today i wasn't able to drive out of the parking lot, 1st gear or reverse, just a tip on the gas or even just clutch pedal had asr come on, so i had to disconnect the asr plug to be able to drive.
rpm were going up and down for about 50-100 rpm in that situation.

error codes stored are module 9, code 66 (high current), no other codes besides this one.

when disconnecting the plug i get code 65 (circuit open).

i tried an additional ground wire directly from battery to the asr plug ground in case it was bad, but didn't help.


who can help me with this, what can i do to search for the exact reason for the problem and resolve it ?

winter is coming and i need abs and asr (i'm driving to work the whole winter, streets are cleared very good 99% of the time but wet and a bit of snow is always there).

antfarmer2

I would bleed the brakes while flushing out the old fluid. then take it out on a gravel road and work the abs. sounds like 20 plus years of crap.

it is supost to self test each time it is started and driven.

yes TT is right brain fart here check fliud first.

TorchTarga94

Is your brake fluid level correct in the reservoir? If it is just below the sensor it will cause your symptoms.

WVZR-1

I would think it more important to appropriately diagnose the issue than start bleeding etc. A bleeding procedure can lead to many additional problems if not done correctly. It would be a last resort and not to be done until diagnostics said DO IT.

Just the way you describe your issue I would think I'd start with the TPS. If you don't have the FSM and understand ABS/ASR diagnostics you either need to put your hands on one or find someone that actually understands.

"TT94" posted I guess while I was thinking and that certainly sounds like a reasonable FIRST CHECK.

I've never owned an ASR car but the codes look to be something that suggests "adjuster assembly".

digitalray

it took me some time to get this all done.

- TPS is not the cause, i replaced it with an acdelco and the problem went away for the rest of the day but was back again every time i started the car for the last week.

- i filled up the break fluid (was just a bit below max) and problem was gone for the next 2 starts but was back every other time after that.

- i replaced the break fluid properly by bleeding about 15 oz. main break line in the compartment and all brakes, but that didn't help a bit.

ASR activates just by starting the engine and makes noise, stops for a second and then activates again, blocking the gas and activating the brakes.
when i push the brake pedal, asr light an noise goes off and seems fine, when i release the brake pedal asr activates again.
when pushing the gas pedal while idling, asr activates, too.
it also flip releases a pedal or something while doing this, i can hear hear it like when someone suddenly releases a pedal. maybe asr doesn't get grip on a pedal ? but asr works fine when testing it while driving / drifting.

everything is totally fine when i turn asr off with the switch right when starting the engine. no rough rpm then, no problems at all while driving. 100 % fine.

when i turn asr on again with the switch while driving everything is 100 % fine also.

just when i come to a stop at a traffic light with asr ON and motor goes idling it gets rough and asr activates until i turn it off or eventually get to drive a few meters so car isn't at a stop.

digitalray

still can't find out what is causing the trouble..

error code module 9 code 66 is the only code stored:

Adjuster Assembly Control Fault:
Current at motor too high (over 16 amps for 3 seconds) before reaching commanded position

What does this relate too, do i have to replace the ASR adjuster motor ?

or is there a way to adjust the cables in case they are not calibrated ?

or is the cable to the brake pedal not fitted properly and slipping ?

i can hear a noise when it's trying to adjust (asr light on) while idling and pushing the gas pedal or driving forward or backwards a little and then a noise like you kick the pedal and then "service asr" light comes on.

antfarmer2

UPDATE:*I found the problem and fixed it. DTC 65 means that the Adjuster Assembly circuit is malfunctioning but that code will also be thrown if there is a bad power feed or ground to the EBTCM. There is a red cable that comes from the fuse block (20A ABS/ASR ECU) and goes down under the battery to the back of the car. The ASR/ABS cables run under driver side door inside the lower body panel at the bottom of the car. It then comes out near the rear left wheel well and enters a grommet into the ABS/ASR compartment. The cables are ran in black Flex Tube in the wheel well and this tube was FULL of dirt and rocks. I pulled the flex tube off, cleaned it out to find the red power feed cable was shorted out. Abrasion and moisture I guess. I spilced in a new power cables and everythings normal.
try pulling your vacumme line off your booster and test.

I would look here.

digitalray

ok i checked the brake boooster vacuum line.

when pulling it, idle rpm is higher for a longer time, then goes down to about 1100 rpm (normally around 780).

pushed it back in, started again and had no problems while driving to the supermarket and back, but this can be coincidence.. you know the troubles never show up when you look for them, just when you really don't need them..

what was the thinking behing the vacuum theory ?

the asr adjuster sits behind the cruise control cable and the gas pedal cable, it shouldn't affect the brake pedal normally but just stop the gas throttle cable ?

interestingly when the asr problem comes on while at a stop and idling and i press the brake pedal, the asr light goes off and everything is fine. when i release the brake pedal, the asr trouble starts again.

do you suspect a broken brake booster or vacuum leak that would suddenly release the brake pedal while testing asr ?

i have no problems using the brakes and vacuum seems to build up fine though..


i could have a look for the asr power cables going to the rear compartment, but trouble code 65 only comes on when i totally disconnect the asr plug, i only get 66 really.

antfarmer2

just things I would check if it was mine to look for hints. and rocks and dirt bunging things up might load things up. so I would check there in there from the other post I found. I am a cheap bastard so I tend to play with the free or cheap first.
I would ajust the brake switch too it can't hurt.

another thing I would look at is the pinch points by the jacking spots for line damage.

digitalray

are you referring to the brake fluid switch in the main brake cylinder ? how can i adjust it ?

yeah i'm going to have a look at the asr cables along the bottom driver side.. could've really gotten damaged, i had a damaged car lift last time at the garage that was stuttering like hell when moving up and down and didn't use rubber blocks under the jacking points because none they got fitted under.. maybe the cables got rubbed off there.

digitalray

well the problem went away completely for 2 weeks now. never had a single problem since. no asr code, no noises. all good again.

what would you suspect to have been the fault ?

dirty asr/abs sensors that cleaned themselves over time ?

antfarmer2

years of crap good job

dizwiz24

yes i was going to suggest this but you beat me to it.

i used to have abs activate during normal non-panic stops on dry pavement on my 93. it was scary because the car would take longer to stop than you were used to.

metal brake rotor filings had accumated in the rear abs sensors. once i removed the filings everyhing becme normal again.