video: sound from under the car when i put in fwd or rev.
#22
Oil Producer
Thread Starter
#23
Oil Producer
Thread Starter
here is another vid.
its back to making the sounds only in gear. it seems to be intermittent and the "loudness" is very fluid in both volume and conditions that make it appear.
http://youtu.be/wImGcQUNcnA
its back to making the sounds only in gear. it seems to be intermittent and the "loudness" is very fluid in both volume and conditions that make it appear.
http://youtu.be/wImGcQUNcnA
i am thinking its the torque converter.
i will try to pull the bolts over the rest of the lunch hour.
#24
Melting Slicks
From the looks of it there is movement on the flexplate. Video cameras are tricky to go by but watch the vid and pay attention to the right right hand side gap. The space between the block and the flexplate changes on the right side.
Isnt radical but is noticeable.
Isnt radical but is noticeable.
#25
Oil Producer
Thread Starter
that would be great! so in the process of taking off the flywheel to tc bolts, on #2 my two-wrench system slipped and came smashing down on my forhead and i am now getting stitches!!! lol!!!
#26
Melting Slicks
Damn. Sorry to hear that. Sounds like you have one with an appetite for blood. My truck is like that. My son always jokes he hates working on the truck with me since it demands blood sacrifices
#27
Oil Producer
Thread Starter
noise totally gone.
so, now how do i diagnose between a tc or trans pump and does it even matter? in both cases the trans has to come out right?
i did go back and look at the previous vid and you are right there is some vibration of the flywheel noticable. especialy when compared to it now with no connection to the tc.
Thoughts?
http://youtu.be/BhuIG14WDfo
Last edited by VikingTrad3r; 11-26-2015 at 09:53 PM.
#28
Melting Slicks
Wish I could loan you my bore camera. Would make it easy to check the flex plate for cracks.
With the total lack of vibration with the converter unbolted I'm really leaning twards the flex plate being cracked.
See if you can move the converter back far enough to see the center of the flex plate where the bolts are. A dentist mirror works well for it too if you can get ahold of one.
I know harbor freight has a camera similar to mine for a little over $100 too.
But the main thing is the get enough gap to some how see up in there. Also check for movement prying on the flex plate a little bit with the converter unbolted and see if you have any wiggle. Shouldn't move at all.
With the total lack of vibration with the converter unbolted I'm really leaning twards the flex plate being cracked.
See if you can move the converter back far enough to see the center of the flex plate where the bolts are. A dentist mirror works well for it too if you can get ahold of one.
I know harbor freight has a camera similar to mine for a little over $100 too.
But the main thing is the get enough gap to some how see up in there. Also check for movement prying on the flex plate a little bit with the converter unbolted and see if you have any wiggle. Shouldn't move at all.
#30
Oil Producer
Thread Starter
thanks for that!!
do you know if all c4 corvette flywheels/flexplate (for auto trans) will work?
like would this work?
http://m.kijiji.ca/engines-and-engine-parts/markham-york-region/new-153-tooth-sbc-flexplate/v?adId=1109324854&locationId=1700274
do you know if all c4 corvette flywheels/flexplate (for auto trans) will work?
like would this work?
http://m.kijiji.ca/engines-and-engine-parts/markham-york-region/new-153-tooth-sbc-flexplate/v?adId=1109324854&locationId=1700274
#31
Melting Slicks
Shooting this info in here in case someone needs the info later that runs across this thread :
There are four main factors to consider when purchasing a flexplate.
•The crank style: One or two piece rear main seal. Older style blocks ('55-'85) used a two-piece seal, '86 and up blocks used a one-piece seal
•The torque converter bolt pattern: large 11 1/2-inch or small 10 3/4-inch
•Ring gear tooth count: 153 or 168
•Internal or external engine balance
Small Block Chevy Flexplate
Internal vs External Balance
Almost all small-block Chevys are internally balanced. The harmonic balancer and flexplate/flywheel are what you would call “neutral” balanced, meaning they are balanced like a car rim, with no other parts attached to them. They do not need to be balanced together, just balanced alone. The only small blocks that are externally balanced from the factory are 400 small blocks, because there is not enough room on the crank throws to neutrally balance them, so they offset the missing weight with the harmonic balancer and the flexplate/flywheel.
Bolt Pattern and Tooth Count
The key to choosing the correct bolt pattern and tooth count is measuring the torque converter you are using. A 153 tooth flexplate will be paired with a torque converter that has a 10 3/4-inch bolt circle. A 168 tooth flexplate uses a 11 1/2-inch bolt circle. Some aftermarket flexplates are drilled with both patterns to accept large and small diameter torque converters. You can also note that a 153 tooth flexplate always uses the straight bolt pattern starter, and the 168 tooth flexplate uses a angle bolt pattern starter.
There are four main factors to consider when purchasing a flexplate.
•The crank style: One or two piece rear main seal. Older style blocks ('55-'85) used a two-piece seal, '86 and up blocks used a one-piece seal
•The torque converter bolt pattern: large 11 1/2-inch or small 10 3/4-inch
•Ring gear tooth count: 153 or 168
•Internal or external engine balance
Small Block Chevy Flexplate
Internal vs External Balance
Almost all small-block Chevys are internally balanced. The harmonic balancer and flexplate/flywheel are what you would call “neutral” balanced, meaning they are balanced like a car rim, with no other parts attached to them. They do not need to be balanced together, just balanced alone. The only small blocks that are externally balanced from the factory are 400 small blocks, because there is not enough room on the crank throws to neutrally balance them, so they offset the missing weight with the harmonic balancer and the flexplate/flywheel.
Bolt Pattern and Tooth Count
The key to choosing the correct bolt pattern and tooth count is measuring the torque converter you are using. A 153 tooth flexplate will be paired with a torque converter that has a 10 3/4-inch bolt circle. A 168 tooth flexplate uses a 11 1/2-inch bolt circle. Some aftermarket flexplates are drilled with both patterns to accept large and small diameter torque converters. You can also note that a 153 tooth flexplate always uses the straight bolt pattern starter, and the 168 tooth flexplate uses a angle bolt pattern starter.
#32
Melting Slicks
That said I don't know what year your car is so I cant say if the one you linked will work or not.
84-85 is one flexplate
86-96 is another flexplate
Also new from ecklers isn't but $50 so I wouldn't buy used on that. Not saying to use ecklers if you don't want to just point out how cheap they are.
84-85 is one flexplate
86-96 is another flexplate
Also new from ecklers isn't but $50 so I wouldn't buy used on that. Not saying to use ecklers if you don't want to just point out how cheap they are.
Last edited by crowz; 11-27-2015 at 03:24 AM.
#33
Oil Producer
Thread Starter
thanks!! its an 85.
In canada, where i live, we have a very poor exchange now due to oil crashing and we have to pay huge shipping up from the states so anything thats already up here works very goiod for us.
That said, that will orobably not work for me. It is a 153 tooth flywheel but i see from your post that i will have a 2 piece rear main.
edit: on second thought he says its a gen 1 and he had it balanced. Ive asked him if its for a 2 piece rear main and if he had it neutrally balanced. that should tell me what i need to know.
now also i see there is a "hardened version" for sale on rock auto. 27$ vs 115$. is there any DISadvantage to going to with a hardened flexplate? like wrecking the starter? that said id rather replace a starter than a flexplate lol.
In canada, where i live, we have a very poor exchange now due to oil crashing and we have to pay huge shipping up from the states so anything thats already up here works very goiod for us.
That said, that will orobably not work for me. It is a 153 tooth flywheel but i see from your post that i will have a 2 piece rear main.
edit: on second thought he says its a gen 1 and he had it balanced. Ive asked him if its for a 2 piece rear main and if he had it neutrally balanced. that should tell me what i need to know.
now also i see there is a "hardened version" for sale on rock auto. 27$ vs 115$. is there any DISadvantage to going to with a hardened flexplate? like wrecking the starter? that said id rather replace a starter than a flexplate lol.
That said I don't know what year your car is so I cant say if the one you linked will work or not.
84-85 is one flexplate
86-96 is another flexplate
Also new from ecklers isn't but $50 so I wouldn't buy used on that. Not saying to use ecklers if you don't want to just point out how cheap they are.
84-85 is one flexplate
86-96 is another flexplate
Also new from ecklers isn't but $50 so I wouldn't buy used on that. Not saying to use ecklers if you don't want to just point out how cheap they are.
Last edited by VikingTrad3r; 11-27-2015 at 07:56 AM.
#34
Oil Producer
Thread Starter
can anybody verify this is the correct size bolt for the trans bellhousing to the block in a 85 (and other years) 700r4?
Grade 8 Bolts w/Washers
3/8"-16 Thread, 1-1/2" Length
Grade 8 Bolts w/Washers
3/8"-16 Thread, 1-1/2" Length
thanks!! its an 85.
In canada, where i live, we have a very poor exchange now due to oil crashing and we have to pay huge shipping up from the states so anything thats already up here works very goiod for us.
That said, that will orobably not work for me. It is a 153 tooth flywheel but i see from your post that i will have a 2 piece rear main.
edit: on second thought he says its a gen 1 and he had it balanced. Ive asked him if its for a 2 piece rear main and if he had it neutrally balanced. that should tell me what i need to know.
now also i see there is a "hardened version" for sale on rock auto. 27$ vs 115$. is there any DISadvantage to going to with a hardened flexplate? like wrecking the starter? that said id rather replace a starter than a flexplate lol.
In canada, where i live, we have a very poor exchange now due to oil crashing and we have to pay huge shipping up from the states so anything thats already up here works very goiod for us.
That said, that will orobably not work for me. It is a 153 tooth flywheel but i see from your post that i will have a 2 piece rear main.
edit: on second thought he says its a gen 1 and he had it balanced. Ive asked him if its for a 2 piece rear main and if he had it neutrally balanced. that should tell me what i need to know.
now also i see there is a "hardened version" for sale on rock auto. 27$ vs 115$. is there any DISadvantage to going to with a hardened flexplate? like wrecking the starter? that said id rather replace a starter than a flexplate lol.
#36
Oil Producer
Thread Starter
seperate trans from block, but keep it up high, using long studs as pins.
thanks, my plan is to remove the bellhousing bolts.
re-install longer studs at the top to studs as pins. (if they fit, I haven't actually looked yet)
then drop the drive shaft, and with the trans supported with a jack, pull it back, sliding along the studs. i have to get under the car to see if there is enough room in the trans tunnel to get yoinked back by 6 inches but even 4 inches should allow me to get a better look at the flywheel, and RnR if needed.
And I don't have to deal with "dropping" the trans.
I'll report back with update later.