C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

95 No Start

Old 11-27-2015, 05:04 PM
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qws
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Default 95 No Start

Having an issue getting it started after a repair.
It sounds off, but not figuring out where I went wrong just yet
New Head Gaskets
New Reman Heads
New Lifters/rockers
New water pump

I'm getting both fuel and spark
starter was working fine before the repair
Battery is charged up to 100%

I wonder if I'm a 180 degrees out... when I adjusted the rockers they were both down when #1 piston was up , unless they are to tight?

Last edited by qws; 11-27-2015 at 05:56 PM.
Old 11-27-2015, 06:00 PM
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cardo0
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Ok a fully charged batt will crank the eng more than 3 turns qws. So did u run the batt down or have u tested the batt? This is what i use for a batt tester and have at least 2 of them: http://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp...ter-61747.html

In 1 minute it will measure batt voltage, load test/batt strength and if car starts measure charging voltage. As for what that video shows is dead/dying batt.
Old 11-27-2015, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by cardo0
Ok a fully charged batt will crank the eng more than 3 turns qws. So did u run the batt down or have u tested the batt? This is what i use for a batt tester and have at least 2 of them: http://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp...ter-61747.html

In 1 minute it will measure batt voltage, load test/batt strength and if car starts measure charging voltage. As for what that video shows is dead/dying batt.
Thanks for your input. You may not be aware but I did turn the key off after the 3 cranks? I can go back and do this several times and the battery still reads 12.1 volts

What I will do since it will only take me a few min's is pop the battery out and run it over to get tested quick

Last edited by qws; 11-27-2015 at 06:22 PM.
Old 11-27-2015, 06:48 PM
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John A. Marker
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There is a little triangle pointer on the balancer on the front of the engine. This is somewhat hidden on the inside of the balancer (they sure don't make it easy!!!). This triangle should be at 12 o'clock when you go to adjust the valves compression in #1 cylinder. Then adjust the "standard GM" method of both intake and exhaust for #1 then half the intake and half the exhaust. Turn 360 and adjust the other half.

This is one of those things that you can't be 180 like with a normal distributor.
Old 11-27-2015, 07:49 PM
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So, I took the batt to advanced to have it tested, it did test after there charge with only 490 cca , so I went ahead and bought a new one.. installed it and it sounds the same as the video above.
So I'll go ahead and pull the plugs and open the valve covers up and go thru adjust the rocker arms again and see what happens.

Plug wires are in the correct locations, so the only other thing can be those rockers I think.
Old 11-27-2015, 08:37 PM
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cardo0
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So if your new batt does the same rrrrryyyoo, rrrryyo, rrry..o u need to get more juice to the starter. I can crank my LT1 camaro faster than that for minutes when the batt is charged. Test your resistance from batt to starter and ground from starter to batt. May need to pull the starter and have that tested also.

The normal diagnostics would say scan for codes and u should do that also. Next would be check for spark. Do u have a timing light? Most spark testers are only $10 these days. Next would be move to check fuel press. But ya know something is really dragging the starter qws. It looks like u have multiple problems. Starter + ign timing or maybe the fuel press.

Last edited by cardo0; 11-27-2015 at 08:38 PM.
Old 11-27-2015, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by cardo0
So if your new batt does the same rrrrryyyoo, rrrryyo, rrry..o u need to get more juice to the starter. I can crank my LT1 camaro faster than that for minutes when the batt is charged. Test your resistance from batt to starter and ground from starter to batt. May need to pull the starter and have that tested also.

The normal diagnostics would say scan for codes and u should do that also. Next would be check for spark. Do u have a timing light? Most spark testers are only $10 these days. Next would be move to check fuel press. But ya know something is really dragging the starter qws. It looks like u have multiple problems. Starter + ign timing or maybe the fuel press.
From first Post

I'm getting both fuel and spark
starter was working fine before the repair
Old 11-27-2015, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by John A. Marker
There is a little triangle pointer on the balancer on the front of the engine. This is somewhat hidden on the inside of the balancer (they sure don't make it easy!!!). This triangle should be at 12 o'clock when you go to adjust the valves compression in #1 cylinder. Then adjust the "standard GM" method of both intake and exhaust for #1 then half the intake and half the exhaust. Turn 360 and adjust the other half.

This is one of those things that you can't be 180 like with a normal distributor.
finding that pointer was fun...not, lol
Old 11-28-2015, 01:38 PM
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For anyone intersted there's that PITA triangle that is so easy to see.



Number one cyl at compression cycle of TDC



The rockers seem overtighten by quite a bit. I'm readjusting now using a slightly different method this time.

I'll update later tonight as I progress
Old 11-28-2015, 02:35 PM
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Yea #2 intake looks like its flattened to coil bind. #4 exh looks pretty bad also. Take a feeler gauge and see what u can get between the coils. U should have at least 0.008".

U need to adj the rockers/lifters when cam is on base circle. U can use the opposing cyl in overlap to observe this. When cyl #1 is on compression ready to fire w/both vlvs shut and ready to adjust lifters on their base cirlce of cam cyl #6 will have both vlvs open in overlap. Then when cyl #1 is in overlap then #6 vlvs are shut ready to fire and be adjusted. Same thing for cyl pairs 8&5, 4&7, 3&2. Next is to feel zero lash by rolling the p-rod w/your fingers until no up and down drag - p-rod just turns but almost no drag. Now add your 1 full turn preload.

Can u explain why the engine turns so slowly and seems to slow way down with just a few turns? U say it did that before the upgrades or not??
Old 11-28-2015, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by cardo0
Yea #2 intake looks like its flattened to coil bind. #4 exh looks pretty bad also. Take a feeler gauge and see what u can get between the coils. U should have at least 0.008".

U need to adj the rockers/lifters when cam is on base circle. U can use the opposing cyl in overlap to observe this. When cyl #1 is on compression ready to fire w/both vlvs shut and ready to adjust lifters on their base cirlce of cam cyl #6 will have both vlvs open in overlap. Then when cyl #1 is in overlap then #6 vlvs are shut ready to fire and be adjusted. Same thing for cyl pairs 8&5, 4&7, 3&2. Next is to feel zero lash by rolling the p-rod w/your fingers until no up and down drag - p-rod just turns but almost no drag. Now add your 1 full turn preload.

Can u explain why the engine turns so slowly and seems to slow way down with just a few turns? U say it did that before the upgrades or not??
Prior to the repairs the starter worked fine. It never started and sounded this way. This is why I didn't jump in and start looking at starter issues. I knew that it was something I did. The only thing I could think of is my adjustments to the rockers on re-install. The way I understand it after speaking to someone earlier today... when the rockers are to tight there is no resistance on the cyl... in turn giving the "effect" of the starter just spinning. And thats exactly how it sounds. I've readjusted everything now and I'm in the process of getting it back together and hopefully try starting it again tonight..
Old 11-28-2015, 05:11 PM
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Did you have the opti removed? If you did not get the alignment correct, the timing will be off and it will not start. Unlike the 92-94 where it's more easy to misalign, they say the 95-96 is impossible to misalign but it's not. I have read threads where it was misaligned and assembled. You might consider taking a look.
Old 11-28-2015, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by qws
in turn giving the "effect" of the starter just spinning. And thats exactly how it sounds.
Nothing wrong w/that starter...or your original battery (related to your problem).

Let us know how the rocker readjustment goes!
Old 11-28-2015, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
Nothing wrong w/that starter...or your original battery (related to your problem).

Let us know how the rocker readjustment goes!
Well, its at least running, not nearly as smooth as it should. You can hear maybe 1 or 2 rockers that have play in them, give it a little throttle and shes popping.
The opti was never removed, the problem I think is still in the rocker adjustment. I wish I bought a set of roller rockers for it. They seemed easy to adjust vs the stock. There a PITA.. but it at least runs.

Last edited by qws; 11-28-2015 at 08:10 PM.
Old 11-29-2015, 10:47 AM
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Well that is progress!

But, I guess you'll have to run through them again.
Old 11-29-2015, 11:48 AM
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Just wondering, when you pulled the pump, did you keep the opti dry, get it wet or drown it.

A little water is not always the kiss of death, but could be a consideration.

These days I pull the stat, put a tube down the pump and suck all the fluid out I can. Then put a rag on top of the opti before I pull the pump loose.
Old 11-29-2015, 12:08 PM
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I don't mind having to go thru them again. I can get it ready to adjust in about 15 min's..lol I am wondering however if I was rotating the motor the wrong way when coming to TDC. or if that would make a differance. I picked up a remote start today and notice the engine turns clockwise... not counter clockwise.


As far as the Opti.. it was kept dry. Getting them wet doesn't bother me. I've gotten my wifes 94 wet a few times (haha).... as long as its dried good I've never had a problem

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Old 11-29-2015, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by pcolt94
Just wondering, when you pulled the pump, did you keep the opti dry, get it wet or drown it.

A little water is not always the kiss of death, but could be a consideration.

These days I pull the stat, put a tube down the pump and suck all the fluid out I can. Then put a rag on top of the opti before I pull the pump loose.
best to pull the knock sensors and get it all with the crap that hides in there.
Old 11-29-2015, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by qws
I am wondering however if I was rotating the motor the wrong way when coming to TDC. or if that would make a differance. I picked up a remote start today and notice the engine turns clockwise... not counter clockwise.
It doesn't matter. All that matters is you end up w/the rock(s) you're adjusting are on the base circle, not on the lobe at all. If you really want to "get basic" about it, pick a cylinder, rotate the engine, the exhaust rocker will cycle, followed by the intake, when the intake closes, go another ~1/2 turn of the crank and you know you're off any lobes for that cylinder. Adjust. Move on.
Old 11-29-2015, 03:44 PM
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JACKPOT!... 3x's a charm

Sound of the video doesn't do it justice. Now one I get this coolant system to burp I think I'm good to go.


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