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Your kidding me, right?
Knock it off with a hammer?
You do realize how close the ears are to the block,right?
Have you knocked one off with a hammer?
As far as a puller goes there's not enough lip to grab onto.
Sorry.. DEAD serious!!!!! I removed 2 of my LT1's with my puller. you need to install a long bolt to allow the puller to do it's job. The hub should have slid right off. Even with a HAMMER????? if needed. As the ear was already destroyed..
usually the aftermarket hubs come with a keyway...nice feature.
I've seen the hub on Jegs along with another hub puller that would not work because the adapter for the crank wasn't log enough to grab the the threads in the crank.
So I guess I'll have to cut the damn thing.
That's why I asked the question above.,,
Sorry.. DEAD serious!!!!! I removed 2 of my LT1's with my puller. you need to install a long bolt to allow the puller to do it's job. The hub should have slid right off. Even with a HAMMER????? if needed. As the ear was already destroyed..
When you used a puller did your hub have an ear missing?
Just asking because everything I've tried hasn't worked.j
I've never pulled a 2 ear/damaged hub. But, have had 100% success removing non damaged hubs with a steering wheel puller and a longer than stock hub bolt to press against.
this is a aftermarker LT1 hub. Same Method. Use this traditional style puller. Get a 7/16 - 18 X 3" grade 8 bolt. you should have about 1 - 1-1/4 exposed from the hub. should slide right off..
Last edited by THE 383 admiral; 01-04-2016 at 07:56 PM.
Well,I'm back! The first picture is with the 3 leg puller. That didn't work even with the hub heated. The only thing it would do is slip off and fly. When it hit my thumb I said that's it.
But, someone suggested putting a big hose clamp around the legs. That kept it from slipping off but the hub didn't budge.
I was on another forum,Z-28 or LT1 and I was shown this heavy duty gear puller (2nd Picture). These go for over $200.00 new!!! I found one for $92.00 on E-Bay and bought it.
You think I'm going to say I got it off,right? Wrong! I just cracked it!!!
In my years of turning wrenches, I have seen/heard/read where many have broken lots of equipment trying to remove stuck hubs,gears and nuts. With the proper cutting equipment you can remove these items soo much faster. you just cut it to the point its at the edge of nothing left, smack it with a hammer and it will crack off. you just need to take your time. I had one gear that was soo stubborn, that I had to cut it on both sides. Was done in 20 minutes. Protect the area around the motor, get a small cutoff tool and a couple cutoff wheels. First cut off the end cut where its just past the crank shaft. Then start cutting at a diagnal angle from the closest to the block to the end.
Since it is seized on that much, I would do what scrappy suggests and cut it off. You're already this deep. I probably wouldn't be pulling on the crankshaft gear since it's blocked by the seized/broken hub and I would expect that to be damaged next.
I've pulled the balancers and hubs of a few LT1/LT4's. Normally its getting the balancer off the hub that's the problem - once the balancer comes off - I assemble my puller to the balancer - then thread a bolt into the crank that the puller will bear against - then lightly screw the balancer back onto the hub, and pull away. They've never "slid off" easily - but they've never been crazy tight either.
In your case - I think you're at the point where you have to cut the hub off. While you should try to avoid cutting into the crank snout - don't worry too much if you do - there is almost no load on the front part of the crank. If - when you get a replacement hub - you feel it's not a "snug enough" fit - you can always drill and pin the connection (this is what most of t eC5 & C6 guys running superchargers have to do - as the hubs on the LS motors are not keyed).
As for a replacement hub - if you can't find one - you might want to give Chad Golen at Golen Engine service a call. He buys lots of used LT motors from salvage yards to use as cores for buildups - and I'm guessing he probably has a few extra hubs lying around.
Just Hang in There and don't let this get to you.... You can be sure that pretty much everyone on this forum has had made a few automotive related mistakes over the years - it just goes with the territory .....
I've pulled the balancers and hubs of a few LT1/LT4's. Normally its getting the balancer off the hub that's the problem - once the balancer comes off - I assemble my puller to the balancer - then thread a bolt into the crank that the puller will bear against - then lightly screw the balancer back onto the hub, and pull away. They've never "slid off" easily - but they've never been crazy tight either.
In your case - I think you're at the point where you have to cut the hub off. While you should try to avoid cutting into the crank snout - don't worry too much if you do - there is almost no load on the front part of the crank. If - when you get a replacement hub - you feel it's not a "snug enough" fit - you can always drill and pin the connection (this is what most of t eC5 & C6 guys running superchargers have to do - as the hubs on the LS motors are not keyed).
As for a replacement hub - if you can't find one - you might want to give Chad Golen at Golen Engine service a call. He buys lots of used LT motors from salvage yards to use as cores for buildups - and I'm guessing he probably has a few extra hubs lying around.
Just Hang in There and don't let this get to you.... You can be sure that pretty much everyone on this forum has had made a few automotive related mistakes over the years - it just goes with the territory .....
Finally cut through. It <br/>Now I think I'll get it!
Eureka! I finally got that forboso off!!
Happy Mardi Gras and hoopti do��
I nicked the crank some and you can see I need to polish the snout but finally it's off!!
What a nightmare!
looking at that crank snout, either the snout was too big, or the hub too small, or no antiseize / lube used during installation, but something was goofy from the start. glad you got it off; congrats.
I hope this engine is coming apart for a rebuild of sorts. I see a TON of metal dust around and in places it should not be. That stuff and/or aluminum oxide from sand paper/3M discs will ruin bearings faster than you can say it.
Why tear down and rebuild if not needed the engine is still sealed up all the dust and metal means nothing if still sealed?
How is it sealed when I can see the lack of a timing cover, main bearing caps, and inside the oil pan? Notice the dirty appearance of everything. He cut metal right there=chips and metal shavings. However, they appear to have got to places that make me nervous.
Those 3M Roloc discs everyone loves for removing RTV and stuff from engines and engine covers....yeah, people allow that crap to get into the engine and then the oil then it eats the bearings. This happens all the time, GM had a epidemic with it when dealership techs where doing intake manifolds non-stop.
I personally stuff rags into holes and protect things as much as I can. RTV gets handled with chemical softeners and plastic razor blades.
01-04-2016, 04:03 PM
