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I'm trying to press my balancer hub on using a big ole hardened threaded rod.
It's not working. The hub is partially pressed on, but you'll notice there's no nuts in the picture. That's because the nuts I've been turning so far are rounded off and in the garbage now.
I even used the type of spanner that wraps all the way around the nut. I turned it (with a cheater extension for more force) but it just rounds the regular nuts right off. Or stretches out and slips.
I don't know the first thing about getting myself some stronger nuts. The size is 7/16-20 which is probably not the easiest to find. What should I look for? Different metals? Different design? A bigger nut with the same size hole?
Are you using grade 8 nuts currently. Those are the most common that you could find at a hardware store. Anything harder than that you will have to try a bolt/nut supply store and see what that have above the grade 8 or they can direct you to another company. The difficult part is your small quantity.
I would rent the tooi from autozone it was very easy. The steel is much stronger than a regular bolt. It also has a built in bearing that spins because you are creating a ton of drag doing it like that. Good Luck
I would rent the tooi from autozone it was very easy. The steel is much stronger than a regular bolt. It also has a built in bearing that spins because you are creating a ton of drag doing it like that. Good Luck
I got the hub off without the special $200 Kent Moore tool, which is supposedly needed because there isn't room for the Autozone puller in our cars. Is that not true of the installer though?
I spent so much energy building my current tool using this thread http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...d.php?t=263126 that it'd almost be a shame if Autozone already rents out something far better for the job. I'll see if the one down the road has one.
The nut in that photo looks HUGE and ideal if it can fit around the power steering pipes.
Last edited by LouisvilleLT4; 02-02-2016 at 09:47 PM.
I got the hub off without the special $200 Kent Moore tool, which is supposedly needed because there isn't room for the Autozone puller in our cars. Is that not true of the installer though?
I spent so much energy building my current tool using this thread http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...d.php?t=263126 that it'd almost be a shame if Autozone already rents out something far better for the job. I'll see if the one down the road has one.
The nut in that photo looks HUGE and ideal if it can fit around the power steering pipes.
Did that hub come off that engine? Is that a factory crank? If either is new I'd check the ID/OD and it may be too tight. I'm no LT guy, but SBC aftermarket dampers need to be sized to the crank, because diff brand cranks are slightly diff sizes.
I always use a good grease and the install tool and take my time as friction will heat it up, I have had two cheap tools break.
Those hubs should not take that much pressure to go on the crank snout. did you use grease or antiseize on the hub I.D. and the crank O.D.? If it's still that hard take a brake cylinder hone and make a few passes inside the hub; also make certain there are no burrs / dents on the crank snout. That's an aftermarket hub ? with a keyway? if so the key will locate the hub on the crank and there's no need to force the hub onto the crank snout.
It sounds like I should grease the remaining exposed part of the crankshaft. Not sure if taking it apart to grease the rest would be necessary, it wasn't *that* hard to get it this far on without grease, it was going, and my gut says that my nuts only gave way because I cheaped out on them. I'm not even sure that they were grade 8, I bought the cheapest ones at OSH.
Both the hub and new crankshaft came from Golen engines. Chad Golen told me that this hub should be an interference fit even though it's keyed so I'm not surprised it's taken some leverage to force on. I'm sure he might have said something like, if it's too difficult I might have to hone some, but again I'm blaming my weak nuts mainly because it hasn't taken any ridiculously excessive force so far, just maybe a two foot long lever.
Any tips on pulling it back off? I mean right now all I have is a threaded rod tightened in there, I wasn't planning on taking it out unless by destructive means (vice grips), how else could I do it without destroying the threads?
Any tips on pulling it back off? I mean right now all I have is a threaded rod tightened in there, I wasn't planning on taking it out unless by destructive means (vice grips), how else could I do it without destroying the threads?
If you get the installer and pour tranny fluid over the crank it should start to get easier because you still have a ways to go, also with the autoxone tool it is a tight fit so don't crank it unevenly because your power steering line could get a nick in it.,
Any tips on pulling it back off? I mean right now all I have is a threaded rod tightened in there, I wasn't planning on taking it out unless by destructive means (vice grips), how else could I do it without destroying the threads?
Sry cant help there, but I assume there is a puller tool as well? Or maybe a LT guy will chime in. I know for sbc stuff there are two tools installer and puller.
Any tips on pulling it back off? I mean right now all I have is a threaded rod tightened in there, I wasn't planning on taking it out unless by destructive means (vice grips), how else could I do it without destroying the threads?
02-02-2016, 08:32 PM
I need to get some nuts. Some strong ones.
or more with weak nuts.
