30 Year Old Antique 1986 vert - shuts off - No Start
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
30 Year Old Antique 1986 vert - shuts off - No Start
About a month ago my car quit before a tiny round about circle ... which left me in the circle. It immediately restarted and I took it home. I fooled around with it in the driveway revving and such ... no problems.
Last Friday it quit on me just as I was pulling into my parking space at work ...showing SES light which is normal when the key is on.
I checked codes at lunch 12 12 12 ... 12 12 12 ... nada.
My buddy at work questioned my manhood when suggesting a tow so I gave it a college try and it died on the way home in time for me to get it into a school parking lot. Would not restart but cranked over and over ... at least ten tries over the time I was waiting on USAA to come tow.
The driver of course started it right up and drove it onto the flatbed.
Now it starts every-time and runs for hours (yesterday and today) in the driveway with a fuel pressure guage on it. 42psi constant ... holds for 30 minutes down to 15psi and then stays awhile.
Since is died so suddenly each time I'm thinking fuel would give me a second or 2 before quitting so I am sorta ruling that out.
So maybe an ICM? I have a fresh computer to put in also but this running for hours without a failure is getting to me.
Thanks in advance
Robert Harker
Last Friday it quit on me just as I was pulling into my parking space at work ...showing SES light which is normal when the key is on.
I checked codes at lunch 12 12 12 ... 12 12 12 ... nada.
My buddy at work questioned my manhood when suggesting a tow so I gave it a college try and it died on the way home in time for me to get it into a school parking lot. Would not restart but cranked over and over ... at least ten tries over the time I was waiting on USAA to come tow.
The driver of course started it right up and drove it onto the flatbed.
Now it starts every-time and runs for hours (yesterday and today) in the driveway with a fuel pressure guage on it. 42psi constant ... holds for 30 minutes down to 15psi and then stays awhile.
Since is died so suddenly each time I'm thinking fuel would give me a second or 2 before quitting so I am sorta ruling that out.
So maybe an ICM? I have a fresh computer to put in also but this running for hours without a failure is getting to me.
Thanks in advance
Robert Harker
Last edited by 3D-Aircrew; 02-07-2016 at 01:12 PM. Reason: clarify
#2
Take a look at your coil and icm. And related connections and grounds.
Last edited by antfarmer2; 02-07-2016 at 12:34 PM.
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3D-Aircrew (02-07-2016)
#3
Melting Slicks
I could not agree more and while you are looking at the ICM inspect for a white crud or signs of oil inside your Distributor base by shaft bushing & seal, may not be related to your problem but while you are there look, it could interfere with the pick up.
Last edited by s carter; 02-07-2016 at 02:20 PM.
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3D-Aircrew (02-07-2016)
#4
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Got to the ground under the battery and found serious corrosion on everything. Cleaned, burnished and ground the steel ... treated with dielectric grease and WD40.
If the ICM is coming out I'm changing it. Going to drive it tomorrow.
Thanks fellas
If the ICM is coming out I'm changing it. Going to drive it tomorrow.
Thanks fellas
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Well it wasn't the bad ground near the battery.
While it's not starting what should I check?
#6
Spark
#7
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Cap & Rotor all corroded
I pulled the cap and rotor and found it rusted at all the contacts. I replaced the cap ICM and rotor in 2008. There was no grease or oil inside today. I had 11.88 Vdc to the distributor with the key on.
Even though this might have been a problem for drive-ability I'm not sure whether it's the core to my no-start. Going to replace them all either way since they're in such bad shape.
Thoughts?
Even though this might have been a problem for drive-ability I'm not sure whether it's the core to my no-start. Going to replace them all either way since they're in such bad shape.
Thoughts?
#8
I pulled the cap and rotor and found it rusted at all the contacts. I replaced the cap ICM and rotor in 2008. There was no grease or oil inside today. I had 11.88 Vdc to the distributor with the key on.
Even though this might have been a problem for drive-ability I'm not sure whether it's the core to my no-start. Going to replace them all either way since they're in such bad shape.
Thoughts?
Even though this might have been a problem for drive-ability I'm not sure whether it's the core to my no-start. Going to replace them all either way since they're in such bad shape.
Thoughts?
#9
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
ICM loose, many parts rusted
The bolts holding the ICM were finger tight and I guess over the years they worked loose. That and the contact to the coil was rusted solid, bad rotor and cap ... long story short ... replaced everything but the coil which I cleaned the rust off off.
Started 1st try. and I used thermal grease and torqued it in pretty good.
Thanks
Started 1st try. and I used thermal grease and torqued it in pretty good.
Thanks