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its duplicolor engine enamel and instructions are to bake it.
here is my setup. works great.
so, am I to understand, if you paint your whole engine, you need to bake it? . seriously, I've used duplicolor engine enamel, on my 85 - didn't bake anything, in fact, nowhere on the can does it say anything about baking. ???
so, am I to understand, if you paint your whole engine, you need to bake it? . seriously, I've used duplicolor engine enamel, on my 85 - didn't bake anything, in fact, nowhere on the can does it say anything about baking. ???
These valve cover are always hard to paint. Mine are chipping now and peeling I keep having to touch them up. They sure looked good when they were freshly painted. I'm going to end up buying new valve covers probably.
These valve cover are always hard to paint. Mine are chipping now and peeling I keep having to touch them up. They sure looked good when they were freshly painted. I'm going to end up buying new valve covers probably.
do we have any idea what makes them so hard to paint vs other ones?
they look amazing so far! if i can get them to heat cycle up to 300f without blistering i think im good to go.
the paint that did not blister on mine (most of it) was hard to get off with sand paper so i think im close.
im stoked to get a system down to refurb them for the cost of one pint can and a lazy sunday morning.
Did you do a pre bake to bake out trapped solvents/oils?
My bad, I just saw that you didn't. The heat paints are more durable due to the amount of ceramics in them. I'd just sand and respray and call it a day.
Did you do a pre bake to bake out trapped solvents/oils?
My bad, I just saw that you didn't. The heat paints are more durable due to the amount of ceramics in them. I'd just sand and respray and call it a day.
I think you're on the right track. I did spraying of furniture for years and used many different types of finishes. Problem developed if the finish skimmed prior to all the solvent gassing out. It acted like plastic wrap, forming a seal against the finish preventing the ability of the solvent from exiting, forming pockets and boils in the finish.
If it was me, I agree cooking the part first to force out any residual contaminants first. Let it cool to room temp and only then spray it. Let it air dry for several days and only then if the direction say to heat it would I attempt to cook the finish. Based on the photo, it does not appear to be mandatory so personally I would only let it air dry for that week and then mount them up to the engine.
I think you're on the right track. I did spraying of furniture for years and used many different types of finishes. Problem developed if the finish skimmed prior to all the solvent gassing out. It acted like plastic wrap, forming a seal against the finish preventing the ability of the solvent from exiting, forming pockets and boils in the finish.
If it was me, I agree cooking the part first to force out any residual contaminants first. Let it cool to room temp and only then spray it. Let it air dry for several days and only then if the direction say to heat it would I attempt to cook the finish. Based on the photo, it does not appear to be mandatory so personally I would only let it air dry for that week and then mount them up to the engine.
My 2 cents.
The magnesium valve covers are notorious for holding in solvents and oils.
I refinished my 90's VC (satin nickel and topcoat only) it's been about two years now, no issues. I did refinish my 85's - bead blasted down to base, chemical clean, etch primer, several coats of texture, and topcoat. have yet to fire the engine though...
02-07-2016, 03:11 PM
wtf baked my valve covers have blisters
. why do you feel you need to do that?
. seriously, I've used duplicolor engine enamel, on my 85 - didn't bake anything, in fact, nowhere on the can does it say anything about baking. ???
