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Thanks for the reply. This brings up another question. I removed my stock camshaft tonight. The FSM and everything else I've read states to have crank dot at 12 O clock and Camshaft at six-o-clock. This puts #6 at TDC. Then when I install my heads and begin to set rocker clearance all literature states to have #1 at TDC. which puts camshaft dot at 12 -o-clock and crank at 12-0-clock. I've changed camshafts in non-LT1s and it's always done with #1 at TDC. Can anyone explain why?
Explain what? The dot to dot method works but that's what they use when building these at the factory. My old chevy 2.8 was the same way, #1 @ tdc and both dots at 12 o'clock.
Portable welder will or should have there own power source being a gas powered welder or generator to power the welder all mounted on the truck. Your issue if any could be the truck too tall to get in the garage.
welding is your best bet. i called a guy on my local classified ad when this happened to me. he backed in, had a nut on in very short order, out it came.
as mentioned, heat cycle it of you can, spray on penetrating oil while it cools.
i have had success buying a cheap socket and mini sledging it over the stud. then backing it out. that lication makes the whacking to get the socket on problematic. it takes alot of force.
i paid a guy 60$ to weld my nut on. cheap considering.
Portable welder will or should have there own power source being a gas powered welder or generator to power the welder all mounted on the truck. Your issue if any could be the truck too tall to get in the garage.
OP - your parking garage should have a MAX HEIGHT advertised/posted so you check the height (maybe actually measure to confirm) and call a welding service. Maybe a Craigslist find? Maybe if you're a subscriber to other lists.
All others are "waste of time" and maybe like "Churchkey" mentioned if it was "bottomed" so is this.
Post a snapshot of the head of the bolt that you twisted off.
80 ft lbs of torque is maximum for its diameter. SWAG on breaking torque: Its bottomed in the crank with 100+ ft lbs of torque. The stud still has 100+ ft lbs of torque on it.
As stated in an earlier post a surface welded nut on a small diameter is not strong enough the weld will break.
Pondering the problem the following weld technique may work.
A short length of 1/2 or 5/8 round bar stock placed on the end of the stud 90* to the stud. Weld the bar to the stud around the stud diameter. This technique should provide sufficient weldment to the bolt shank to avoid weld failure. A length of pipe over the welded on round stock long enough to contact the vehicle frame on the drivers side.
Engage the starter the shock from the pipe hitting the frame + the starter torque may loosen the broken stud. If not cut the stud off flush with the crank snout & drill it out.
80 ft lbs of torque is maximum for its diameter. SWAG on breaking torque: Its bottomed in the crank with 100+ ft lbs of torque. The stud still has 100+ ft lbs of torque on it.
As stated in an earlier post a surface welded nut on a small diameter is not strong enough the weld will break.
Pondering the problem the following weld technique may work.
A short length of 1/2 or 5/8 round bar stock placed on the end of the stud 90* to the stud. Weld the bar to the stud around the stud diameter. This technique should provide sufficient weldment to the bolt shank to avoid weld failure. A length of pipe over the welded on round stock long enough to contact the vehicle frame on the drivers side.
Engage the starter the shock from the pipe hitting the frame + the starter torque may loosen the broken stud. If not cut the stud off flush with the crank snout & drill it out.
80 ft lbs of torque is maximum for its diameter. SWAG on breaking torque: Its bottomed in the crank with 100+ ft lbs of torque. The stud still has 100+ ft lbs of torque on it.
As stated in an earlier post a surface welded nut on a small diameter is not strong enough the weld will break.
Pondering the problem the following weld technique may work.
A short length of 1/2 or 5/8 round bar stock placed on the end of the stud 90* to the stud. Weld the bar to the stud around the stud diameter. This technique should provide sufficient weldment to the bolt shank to avoid weld failure. A length of pipe over the welded on round stock long enough to contact the vehicle frame on the drivers side.
Engage the starter the shock from the pipe hitting the frame + the starter torque may loosen the broken stud. If not cut the stud off flush with the crank snout & drill it out.
Well I took your good advice to use a pipe wrench but it didn't work out. I'm pretty sure it was the ideal pipe wrench to use; a mini 8-inch one with jaws about the width of the bolt sticking out. It grabbed on at first, but with more force it soon torqued forwards wrt. the car and twisted its way loose, spiraling off the bolt. The threads got smeared the rest of the way off and there's a lot of loose metal flaking off of the bolt.
Next step for me might be trying to center drill it. I don't trust myself to bore a new hole that's centered, but could I at least use a small drilled hole to apply an extractor? Could I even generate as much torque with an extractor as I've already applied with the pipe wrench / vise grips? Seems like a waste of time but I don't know what else to try.
Getting someone out here to weld it might be a bit weird because it's an underground shared parking garage and I'd have to steal electricity from somewhere.
Last resort is towing it to a professional. I really, really don't want to have to do that. Last time it look up two days and 1200 dollars for them to plug a new engine block into my transmission, although this time I suppose they could pull them both out together and save a few steps.
If you can fit a pipe wrench on it and it's now marred, can't you file or grind 4 flat spots on it and use a wrench or socket to turn out?
Or weld it, and if that does not work drill a hole in it and put something through it to turn it out with leverage hoping it won't break.
Last edited by pologreen1; 03-29-2016 at 11:11 PM.
Used with an impact it supposedly tightens the more you twist it.
OP ~should TRY this over the extractor. Heat & lube!!!! almost never fails!! even Rusted, Seized bolts.. a pipe wrench failed.. I'm positive you will snap the extractor. The ultimate suggestion is chuck's bar / rod welded to the grade 8 bolt. worst scenario. cut flush, Drill & tap. NO need to sell your car. be patient. this can be fixed!!!! without replacing the crank.
Last edited by THE 383 admiral; 03-30-2016 at 11:16 AM.
get someone with a mini-ductor, it's a portable induction heating tool for bolts, it will heat the bolt without heating the crank much. let it cool, lose the temper of the bolt. it will be softer and easier to drill. then you want to take a piece of pipe to slip over the crank snout, weld on a washer and bushing to use as a pilot for the drill bit to drill down perfectly straight. it will come out with an extractor at that point, even if bottomed out.
since that's probably beyond your available tools, have it towed to a shop that is experienced in doing that kind of work. believe it or not, it happens a lot and you may even find a shop that already has a the tools for it. I have bought vehicles in the past with the exact problem as you with the owner thinking the motor was junk, only to fix it relatively easily ....
get someone with a mini-ductor, it's a portable induction heating tool for bolts, it will heat the bolt without heating the crank much. let it cool, lose the temper of the bolt. it will be softer and easier to drill. then you want to take a piece of pipe to slip over the crank snout, weld on a washer and bushing to use as a pilot for the drill bit to drill down perfectly straight. it will come out with an extractor at that point, even if bottomed out.
since that's probably beyond your available tools, have it towed to a shop that is experienced in doing that kind of work. believe it or not, it happens a lot and you may even find a shop that already has a the tools for it. I have bought vehicles in the past with the exact problem as you with the owner thinking the motor was junk, only to fix it relatively easily ....
I can't tell how much of the stud sticks out, but if there is enough, run a die on it and cut threads, get two shallow shouldered nuts, and put them on. back the inner nut up against the outer and then hit it with an impact wrench.
03-28-2016, 10:31 PM
