WVZR-1

The "weld-on" is the only solution for the extraction.

Chasing the threads in the crankshaft at this point might certainly not be possible. Worth an attempt? Certainly, but you need to be really cautious, if you can't hand tighten a "quality bolt" to the bottom you've likely failed. A "thread chaser" or "thread forming tap" maybe.

If you don't save it this trip you've certainly got issues. Maybe consider an inspection and a "for hire" consultation before this attempt. Have you asked anyone to actually look at your situation?

LouisvilleLT4

Just you guys, lol.

The standard (Autozone) hub puller works great (I keep having to use it again and again), just not the installer.

THE 383 admiral

The Welding is a great idea to remove a old fatigued bolt. At this point you have snapped a grade 8 bolt. Twice! I'M sorry to say. That bolt is part of the crank. you are now forced to file the bolt flush with the nose. scribe center marks. use a punch for dead center. get a brand new 13/32 dewalt pilot point. use a right angle drill. drill straight in. the complete length. trying to save your 7/16 - 20 thread. now a traditional extractor should easily remove the hollow bolt. If you feel ANY semi major resistance use HEAT!!! or bore out to 27/64 at this point the bolt is film.. the bolt will extract. if the Threads are Salvageable?? freshen up with a 7/16 -20 bottom tap. if not use a 29/64 bit and a new 1/2 - 20 start & bottom tap. use kerosene. crank is saved. the hub pilot will need a 1/2 drill bore. re-assemble. you drive your car!!!!!

LouisvilleLT4

For better access with a drill I took off my steering rack, which was pretty tough. I cleaned it up and left it on the floor near the door to take it back out to the car eventually. Forgot it was there, tripped on it, maybe broke my foot on the tie rod end. Waiting on the X-ray results now.

I actually broke the second bolt off the night after doing that, working on one foot. It wasn't a great day for car jobs. Would have been better off if I'd just stayed home.

Speaking of tie rod ends, I don't want to distract from the main topic but I can't get mine off. Rack is already outside the car, any advice for breaking that nut loose so I can spin the tie rod end off? I may have been turning it the wrong direction but it was stuck either way.

THE 383 admiral

Sorry about all of the nasty events. I can vouch for a seized outer tie rod. This is what it took to remove my DS outer tie rod. My jam nut was not a problem. I heated the outer with map gas GLOW red and only moved it 1-2 threads. I was using my 18" adjustable. I'm sure i would have snapped the inner trying any harder.
PS my inner was perfect. The moog spun on with ease!! I chased the threads. on the inner. for piece of mind.

LouisvilleLT4

Jeez that looks insane. Do I use a backup wrench on the inner tie rod? It seems really thin right there where it has a place to and my wrench kept slipping off. Is there danger of over-twisting the inner tie rod or can it safely spin around in whatever's going on inside that boot?

THE 383 admiral

Yes, i was using my 12" adjustable on the inner. I believe i used my pipe wrench at one point. Then busted out with my 6" grinder with a cut off wheel. The outer is pretty tough even using a cut off. I'm not sure if your tie rod is at this level? This will prep you. In any event.

LouisvilleLT4

Cut off wheel? Oh my. What for?

THE 383 admiral

The picture of the tie rod. I posted. that is what. it took. to remove my DS tie rod.
as you can see. i cut to expose the inner threads.

LouisvilleLT4

Oh my God

Jeffs82c3

I have read this post and came to this conclusion, you should not be allowed to own tools... Bring it to a mechanic before you destroy the crank.... Jmo

Jeffs82c3

What can I say, there is a proper way of doing things and lots of wrong ways of doing it.... Putting a balancer in the oven is a great way to ruin the balancer... You are supposed to put it in a pot of water and heat it up... You are supposed to measure the crankshaft outer diameter first, bring the balancer to the machine shop and have them measure the inner diameter of the balancer to see if it needs to be honed... Balancer needs to have some interference to fit properly... To loose is not good.. Why the op is sticking that bolt in there does not make any sense to me, then sticking another bolt in there and snapping it off is a guy looking for an expensive fix..... If he wants to end up pulling the motor to pull the crankshaft off to get it fixed is his future... Jmo

Jeffs82c3

I bought a ati super balancer for my 540 and I am going by the instructions that came with the balancer, they say not to put it in the oven...

BLUE1972

This may sound dumb at this point, or maybe I missed it.. but have you put the bolt into the threaded hole on the crank and measured how far in it went? (without the balancer) Then you will have another answer..

This will tell you if there is a thread damage or blockage in the crank.

LouisvilleLT4

Gee thanks, Jeffs82

Jeffs82c3

I'm sorry Garett if I sounded a little to harsh on you... Hope it all works out for you....