When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I pulled the Vette out of the garage this morning for a nice Sunday drive and the strangest thing happened...no power brakes!! I washed the car last week and backed it into the garage without any problems..Kind of weird.
I popped the hood to inspect the vacuum lines and saw a large crack on the top of my booster. Must be from heat cycles. I am soo lucky it happened in my garage and not while driving!
After watching a few Youtube videos on replacing the booster, I got the courage to assume the Corvette contortionist position with my head under the pedals and feet above the driver's seat. I know I can remove the seat fairly easily to make the job easier....famous last words. I just don't feel like fixing lumbar hoses, actuators, or anything else that tends to break while removing on these cars. I had everything out within an hour and that is taking my time. The two bolts behind the brake pedal are not too tight so using 1/4 inch extensions, swivel, and a 13mm socket, it was easy to maneuver and break loose.
Tomorrow, I will shop around for a replacement booster and I'll have the original to compare rod lengths. I work at a GM dealership, so hopefully I'll be able to source an NOS booster. I've read stories about the problems with some of the reman units. I really don't want to do this job 3 times before I get a reliable replacement part.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1305&ppt=C0066
works very nice and states
Master cylinder output rods are pre-adjusted (when included) for easier and faster installation.
It also came with the nozzle but save yours don't return it with core just incase.
I am soo lucky it happened in my garage and not while driving!
I've been tow-strapped in a non-running power brake car idk how many times and when tow-strapped you gotta keep tension on the strap, a good tower knows the tow car will stop him some to keep it. So no power it can still stop itself and another car pretty decent. Also long ago working for a cheap boss I drove an armored van w/o power brakes, talk about making sure you have stopping room and standing on the brakes! Still even my 68 Camaro had poorly working four wheel drum brakes and I'd compare that to worse than non-running power brake car, I even drag raced the thing(had to use the fast car 2nd turn around and it was a 12 sec car LOL). My c3 brakes have never worked that good! Not to mention what I tell anyone who is learning(even some who have for yrs and not figured it out) to drive in the winter, DO NOT LOCK YOU BRAKES, soon as you do you loose steering control, use a soft foot. Same thing applies to high speed stops, you don't want skid, just like ice skates melt ice melted rubber is slick. Still you have ABS and most do these days I prefer non-abs so I can steer and I know I can stop fast w/o it. LOL I'm bout to disable it on my truck it's too sensitive and I hate waiting for it to shut off so I can use the brakes again. I was watching a vid of a guy drag racing who almost lost it going wall to wall leaving skid marks and the few seconds it took I thought over n over ease off the brakes and let those tires roll so you can steer! That guy had no control over his "oh-shat" reaction.
You just gotta be a cautious driver if it happens and deff can't tailgate.
All that said I need to stop leaning on that dang thing, I don't want to pay to replace it and I herd it crack not long ago LOL.
Yes after removing the master tie rap it forward as far as you can the tubes may bend a little but you put them back and they go back.
That's great news! I drove myself crazy bleeding brakes and I still have a squishy pedal. The used booster is the only other culprit for the pedal going to the floor with little to no clamp.
I found an NOS booster down in Louisiana for a couple hundred dollars. I'm having that shipped out today. I'm glad to have no core charge so I can try to plasi-weld my original booster to keep for a spare.
Make sure to match up the rod with length and width. Last year some manufacture was installing the wrong rod 1/2 in shorter and won't work. You'll probably be fine, just take a visual look, it will be obvious if wrong.
Last two boosters I installed I just pulled the master back after I got to ASR out of the way.
Heard about plastic boosters cracking but never had that problem. Guess you're just one of the lucky ones.
The new booster arrived today and I installed it. I didn't even realize that the booster I took off that cracked was a remanufactured assembly! The new one I got has the PBR Made in Australia sticker and I noticed my old one had a stamp that read "reman." I did take measurements and the OE booster has a rod that goes to the brake pedal about 1/2 inch longer than the one I took off. The most important part that goes into the master cylinder was the same. The previous owner mentioned that the master cylinder had been replaced but maybe didn't remember or realize the booster was replaced too. I know he had the work done at a Chevy dealership.
Installation was a bit more difficult than disassembly. The right hand side nut is a bear to get the threads started. Took me about 20 minutes to finally getting the threads to catch. I ended up taping the nut to the end of the socket. After I was done, the tape wouldn't let go of the socket!! That took another 20 minutes to try and peel away the tape. At least I didn't loose anything behind the pedals or under the carpet.
However, I could not remember how my OBD2 diagnostic port was positioned. Should it face towards the floor, or towards the back of the car? I put it facing the floor, but just seems very hidden. I don't remember it being so tucked away.
Test drive went great; brake lights work correctly and pedal feel is better than ever. I love these Corvettes when you press the brakes hard...you can hear and feel the entire car squat to the ground.
I'm driving my baby to work tomorrow to celebrate.
If the rod is 1/2" longer and it went together correctly and the brake pedal is in the right physical position, then it's probably the correct length rod.
Note: if the rod is to short you can assemble it, but if rod is longer than the correct rod length, you will not be able to connect the brake pedal.
Sounds like your OK.
I believe you have the diagnostic port in the proper position. That’s how mine is and if it faces the rear, I would not be able to get my (Tech1) cables on.
Mine happened in the same manner. I drove home from work, parked it in the driveway. Three days later, I started it, was backing out of the driveway, hit the brakes and they were hard as a rock. I was like wtf. I opened the hood and saw the crack in the same place as yours. The p/o had just replaced it about 2 months before I bought it. So it was like 6 months old. Too bad he didn't the receipt, would have gotten a new one for free. I actually sealed the crack with silicone, was able to drive it after it dried. So I saved it for a spare.
04-24-2016, 06:07 PM
Cracked Booster
I drove myself crazy bleeding brakes and I still have a squishy pedal. The used booster is the only other culprit for the pedal going to the floor with little to no clamp.
