Ltcc kit issue? Please help
#21
Melting Slicks
You've replaced the opti 4 times, and you want to try a cheap route again? If you want a second hand OEM part, I would be scouring LOCAL junk yards like WVZR-1 suggested. Otherwise, go new.
#22
I would rather go new for sure, but another $450 for a distributor is gonna kill my available Impala funds. Where will I get the best deal on an official ACDELCO?
#24
I'd make sure it's an OE with Mitsu.. Sensor - I've never attempted to date code an OE so it might be interesting if you post all of the information from the JY unit. If the engine is close maybe note what it was removed from.
#25
I plan on installing the optispark tomorrow and will give you any serial numbers, and other info on it. Would have already installed, but got I got Strep throat on Tuesday after visiting my doctor for an ankle injury. Figures. Does anyone think I should gut this opti before installing? By gutting, I mean removing the rotor completely instead of just the metal rotor button tab like I did with my Carquest opti. Bob Bailey (LTCC guy) said that some people do this to prevent it from exploding at high rpm.
Last edited by YourCustomCar; 04-28-2016 at 09:45 PM.
#26
Race Director
I plan on installing the optispark tomorrow and will give you any serial numbers, and other info on it. Would have already installed, but got I got Strep throat on Tuesday after visiting my doctor for an ankle injury. Figures. Does anyone think I should gut this opti before installing? By gutting, I mean removing the rotor completely instead of just the metal rotor button tab like I did with my Carquest opti. Bob Bailey (LTCC guy) said that some people do this to prevent it from exploding at high rpm.
the funniest part about the ltcc conversion is it still uses the optispark!!!
optispark failures are not on the high voltage side, but instead on the opticAl sensor side
#27
Race Director
unless you got real lucky to find a nos part some old man had sitting on his shelf And just got around to selling it...
'new' entails chinese or other non oem quality junk. guaranteed for sure it wont have the mitsubishi opticAl sensor.
#28
Race Director
Allow me to chime in...
I re-wrote the manual for Bob a number of years ago... as far as I know, that version is still going out with the kit. I installed this kit back in 2003! I did send it back once due to water intrusion, but it was ok, per Bob. It has been humming along for nearly 13 years and well over 100k miles.
The low-resistance wires problem was more related to the early coils, from what I have figured out. The later LS2 coils don't have that issue. Unless there is an electrical field issue I am unaware of.
Did you make the wires yourself or buy them to a set length? If you made them yourself, that would be a place to check. Unless they are crimped right from the get-go, they will be a problem... backfires, misfires... take your pick.
As for installing the Opti... on a 2nd get Opti, it either works or it don't. And when I say that, the timing error for aligning the pin up will not allow it to start, at all. Period, end of story, ask me how I know.
Earlier Gen 1 Optis used a splined shaft that is really impossible to screw up. I suspect with a big enough hammer... but by hand? doubtful.
The reman'd opti is a great place to start. They are suspect in the first place... The newer units are not known to use the Mitsubishi sensor. These sensors are damned near bullet proof. A friend used to work at a Dodge dealer, and a lot of Dodge badged cars had a version of that sensor in their distributors. It was not uncommon to see them last 250k or more miles. The weakness isn't in the sensor, it was in the overall design... allowed the bearings to fail, damaging the sensor.
Find a nice, clean low miles used opti... Corvette, Impala, Firebird/Camaro (LT1 only), Cadillac Fleetwood and Buick Roadmaster all had a version of the LT1. You will want one from 1995-1996.
Now, if you are brave, you might get an older one, and swap out the sensor. I haven't attempted this yet myself, but, it might work.
When you put the opti back together, pickle the damned thing in RTV. I recommend copper RTV. Then, using some rubber hose and fittings, make a bypass line for the water pump, so it drains onto the ground and not the opti... stupid stupid design.
I re-wrote the manual for Bob a number of years ago... as far as I know, that version is still going out with the kit. I installed this kit back in 2003! I did send it back once due to water intrusion, but it was ok, per Bob. It has been humming along for nearly 13 years and well over 100k miles.
The low-resistance wires problem was more related to the early coils, from what I have figured out. The later LS2 coils don't have that issue. Unless there is an electrical field issue I am unaware of.
Did you make the wires yourself or buy them to a set length? If you made them yourself, that would be a place to check. Unless they are crimped right from the get-go, they will be a problem... backfires, misfires... take your pick.
As for installing the Opti... on a 2nd get Opti, it either works or it don't. And when I say that, the timing error for aligning the pin up will not allow it to start, at all. Period, end of story, ask me how I know.
Earlier Gen 1 Optis used a splined shaft that is really impossible to screw up. I suspect with a big enough hammer... but by hand? doubtful.
The reman'd opti is a great place to start. They are suspect in the first place... The newer units are not known to use the Mitsubishi sensor. These sensors are damned near bullet proof. A friend used to work at a Dodge dealer, and a lot of Dodge badged cars had a version of that sensor in their distributors. It was not uncommon to see them last 250k or more miles. The weakness isn't in the sensor, it was in the overall design... allowed the bearings to fail, damaging the sensor.
Find a nice, clean low miles used opti... Corvette, Impala, Firebird/Camaro (LT1 only), Cadillac Fleetwood and Buick Roadmaster all had a version of the LT1. You will want one from 1995-1996.
Now, if you are brave, you might get an older one, and swap out the sensor. I haven't attempted this yet myself, but, it might work.
When you put the opti back together, pickle the damned thing in RTV. I recommend copper RTV. Then, using some rubber hose and fittings, make a bypass line for the water pump, so it drains onto the ground and not the opti... stupid stupid design.
i find it amusing people added coil packs (to try to make their opti system more reliable)only to have those crap out.
#29
Melting Slicks
optispark failures are not on the high voltage side, but instead on the opticAl sensor side
-Ozone (high voltage)
-Heat (high voltage)
-Moisture (high voltage can use moisture as a medium to transfer spark)
Adding a vent harness and coils isn't the end all be all for the Optispark, but it removes a lot of stress from it and prolongs the life of the unit. Especially new aftermarket "chinese" units since new ones aren't available anymore.
#30
Race Director
What causes the optical sensor side to fail?
-Ozone (high voltage)
-Heat (high voltage)
-Moisture (high voltage can use moisture as a medium to transfer spark)
Adding a vent harness and coils isn't the end all be all for the Optispark, but it removes a lot of stress from it and prolongs the life of the unit. Especially new aftermarket "chinese" units since new ones aren't available anymore.
-Ozone (high voltage)
-Heat (high voltage)
-Moisture (high voltage can use moisture as a medium to transfer spark)
Adding a vent harness and coils isn't the end all be all for the Optispark, but it removes a lot of stress from it and prolongs the life of the unit. Especially new aftermarket "chinese" units since new ones aren't available anymore.
i really think some of my optispark success is due to the fact ive reprogrammed fans and such to run cooler.
instead of seeing the high factory 210 to 220f (for emissions), i see 171 to 180f max coolant temps.
i dont have any problems with seals cracking/shrinking and im sure its better for the electronics.
after all its mounted in a terrible spot for heat
#31
Hey Guys,
I finally got everything working right with my LTCC kit install. Knock on Wood! I received the replacement Opti that I purchased second hand from a guy with a 96 Corvette LT1 engine. The Opti was an official OEM unit.
I was just gonna install it and call it a day, but I noticed a little "wiggle" in the input shaft of the Deco Opti. I figured this one had some miles on it... So, instead of risking bearing failure, i decided to do a little switching around. I took both the Delco Opti and my Carquest Opti apart. The input shaft on the Carquest Opti had no bearing play in it since it is new and the backing plate is unscathed. I simply unbolted the Delco/Mitsubishi optical sensor and transferred it (along with optical sensor plate) to the Carquest Opti. I then just put the shields, un-needed-rotor button, etc. back together on the "refurbished"Carquest Opti. I RTV'd the heck out of the assembly and used Blue Loctite on all screws/bolts.
I installed the assembly and fired her up. IT WORKS! I have a green light on my LTCC box with no flashing red. Engine idles smoothly and doesn't backfire at any RPM even under load while driving.
BIG THANKS TO ALL THE PEOPLE ON THIS FORUM THAT HELPED ME OUT!! I have posted pictures below for your reference.
This is the Second Hand Opti from a 96 Corvette LT1
Inside the AC Delco OEM Opti. Notice all the gunk around the outside of the Opti
Rotor Button Removed
Cover behind Rotor removed. Look at all that oil!
Mitsubishi Optical Sensor was clean and showed no real damage. Was clean and oil free. Removed this and the Sensor disk and placed those into my Carquest Opti
Engine bay of my 96 Impala SS
LS1 Coil mounts X2 that I placed in my Wiper Cowl
8 AC Delco D580 LS1 Coils
Positioned the coil mounts and coils inside my wiper cowl for a stealth install
Put my company logo on the Carquest Cap. It will never be seen, but I know its there...lol
LTCC, Delco Plugs, Moroso Wires, etc. All installed and ready to rumble!!!
I finally got everything working right with my LTCC kit install. Knock on Wood! I received the replacement Opti that I purchased second hand from a guy with a 96 Corvette LT1 engine. The Opti was an official OEM unit.
I was just gonna install it and call it a day, but I noticed a little "wiggle" in the input shaft of the Deco Opti. I figured this one had some miles on it... So, instead of risking bearing failure, i decided to do a little switching around. I took both the Delco Opti and my Carquest Opti apart. The input shaft on the Carquest Opti had no bearing play in it since it is new and the backing plate is unscathed. I simply unbolted the Delco/Mitsubishi optical sensor and transferred it (along with optical sensor plate) to the Carquest Opti. I then just put the shields, un-needed-rotor button, etc. back together on the "refurbished"Carquest Opti. I RTV'd the heck out of the assembly and used Blue Loctite on all screws/bolts.
I installed the assembly and fired her up. IT WORKS! I have a green light on my LTCC box with no flashing red. Engine idles smoothly and doesn't backfire at any RPM even under load while driving.
BIG THANKS TO ALL THE PEOPLE ON THIS FORUM THAT HELPED ME OUT!! I have posted pictures below for your reference.
This is the Second Hand Opti from a 96 Corvette LT1
Inside the AC Delco OEM Opti. Notice all the gunk around the outside of the Opti
Rotor Button Removed
Cover behind Rotor removed. Look at all that oil!
Mitsubishi Optical Sensor was clean and showed no real damage. Was clean and oil free. Removed this and the Sensor disk and placed those into my Carquest Opti
Engine bay of my 96 Impala SS
LS1 Coil mounts X2 that I placed in my Wiper Cowl
8 AC Delco D580 LS1 Coils
Positioned the coil mounts and coils inside my wiper cowl for a stealth install
Put my company logo on the Carquest Cap. It will never be seen, but I know its there...lol
LTCC, Delco Plugs, Moroso Wires, etc. All installed and ready to rumble!!!
#32
Race Director
I know this is a long shot. But I to, am getting the red flash, off, flash. But only with key in the ON position. Oddly, when it gives me that red flash, off, red flash, the car starts
And while running, LTCC shows steady green.
And while running, LTCC shows steady green.