jsmn4vu

Exactly, the objective being to relate stall speed to an engine's torque peak.

VikingTrad3r

so a L98 is a low end torque engine with the tpi runners and all, so then my 85 should be fine with a 1400. no need for 2000?

Tom400CFI

Well...that all depends.

Your TPI engine doesn't make peak tq until ~3200 RPM. So if you're hitting the throttle from a stop, and your tach goes to 1400...it would be possible to put more tq to the ground, faster, w/a higher stall converter.

Let say you buy a converter that stalls at 3000 RPM, with YOUR engine. That would be about ideal for max power output. Light turns green, you hit the gas and your engine jumps right to ~3k...it's sweet spot. Or better yet, you brake stand it to ~3k, light turns green, release the brake and you're gone. OR...your tires go up in smoke. Too much power.

The goal w/any car is to dispense tq at a constant rate, right at the threshold of tire spin. Electric cars can do that perfectly -why Tesla's can beat Hellcats. Automatic cars can do it pretty good, with a good converter, gear, and suspension set up. Stick shift cars? Very hard to accomplish this feat.

SO, if you put a 3k stall in your car with stock street tires and stock suspension...it might impress a lot of people the way it "hits"...but it will spin tires too easily, make a ton of heat and sound like a CVT transmission (snowmobile) driving around town. Here is an example of what I'm talking about (and also, a good demonstration of what "Stall speed" is).





So what's best? It all boils down to personal preference. I have no doubt that a slightly higher than stock stall would help your car get out of the hole more quickly. And slightly higher than stock wouldn't be much of a sacrifice in drivability. If the car always feels "boggy" coming out of the hole, a converter would help (so would gears, though). Like all mods, it depends on your mission/vision/goals.