84 Corvette overheating***Please help***
#21
Is there any way you can shine some light on my screwed up fan situation also so I can try to fix that tomorrow too? Right now it has one black wire hooked up that is grounded and it is on all the time... I am just wondering how I can hook it back up the way it is supposed to so it isn't always on because it is loud and annoying.
#23
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
#24
The front of the radiator I believe..So update....I flushed the system, found the thermostat to have been stuck closed, changed it and it appears to be working like it should. I assume so anyways...? As the temp gets to around 210 it stops and that is when the thermostat is kicking on? and goes back down.... Think I am good now THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH!!
#25
Now if I could just figure out this fan situation I would be golden... So Ill tell you what I think I have going on and maybe you can guide me to getting this right? So coming out of the fan motor is a black and red wire and a black wire. The black and red is connected to the black and red which is in the big bunch of wires going who knows where. The black one has been on a screw to be grounded. Then there is a relay of some sort, which I assume has the red wire which is most likely the after market temperature gauge and several other wires. There is a thicker blue wire coming out of it which is connected to nothing at this time and a black wire which must be the ground because when i put it on the frame screw the fan goes. So I tried to mess with the wires and nothing I could figure out would get the fan running normal, and it just stays on all the time. Thank you for this diagram, but I still can't figure it out.
#26
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
Nice work! That is awesome that you took it on yourself...and "won"!
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HebrewHammer413 (05-01-2016)
#27
#28
Intermediate
Remember that these 84's all have a high temp a lower thermostat will help some and for ME when I check for the water flow to see if the pump is running from a cold car remove the radiator cap (yes the one that say's not to remove) check the seal if it looks bad it is crank the car let it run till the car warms up be careful were goggles to protect your eyes now look into the radiator and if you see the water circulate chances are the pump is ok check the color of the water it needs to be green this car need antifreeze all the time if the water looks muddy or clear it will run hot. this car has sensor out the butt that can cause all types of thing to happen from false temp reading to whatever.But outside of having to deal with the ECM you have a car that you can work on your self the newer ones are real tricky
#29
The front of the radiator I believe..So update....I flushed the system, found the thermostat to have been stuck closed, changed it and it appears to be working like it should. I assume so anyways...? As the temp gets to around 210 it stops and that is when the thermostat is kicking on? and goes back down.... Think I am good now THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH!!
Haven't really had occasion/need to troubleshoot the electric fan so not sure I can offer much advice.
In your first picture, where is the other half of the cut wire you are holding?
#30
Good to hear it was just the thermostat....much less work to replace than the water pump.
Haven't really had occasion/need to troubleshoot the electric fan so not sure I can offer much advice.
In your first picture, where is the other half of the cut wire you are holding?
Haven't really had occasion/need to troubleshoot the electric fan so not sure I can offer much advice.
In your first picture, where is the other half of the cut wire you are holding?
#31
Good to hear it was just the thermostat....much less work to replace than the water pump.
Haven't really had occasion/need to troubleshoot the electric fan so not sure I can offer much advice.
In your first picture, where is the other half of the cut wire you are holding?
Haven't really had occasion/need to troubleshoot the electric fan so not sure I can offer much advice.
In your first picture, where is the other half of the cut wire you are holding?
#32
#33
#34
But I'm not sure what happens when you also include the black wire with the other two.
Maybe someone with more electrical experience can chime in.
#35
Race Director
If you follow the drawing provided by ex-x-fire above, the black/red wire should go directly to the fan relay located under the brake booster. The black wire should go to the crossmember under the fan motor. The fan relay should be located under the brake booster assembly. The fan relay is operated either by the coolant temperature switch located by the dipstick, passenger side or by the a/c pressure switch. The red wire on the relay provides power to the relay n/o terminal from a fusible link to power the black/red wire when the relay is operated..
Last edited by ccrazor; 05-02-2016 at 10:16 PM.