Thinking about doing my brakes
#1
Thinking about doing my brakes
I'm thinking of completely doing the brakes on my 1985 soon and wanted to get some thoughts on rotors and pads. I'm not looking for anything over the top so not a full new Wilwood system or anything like that. Basically, I just want to improve what came from the factory with maybe a higher quality basic rotor and better pads. Not really even looking for cross drilled and/or slotted unless they're just a huge upgrade. That said, I'm not having much luck figuring out what plain old rotors are good.
I use my car just to drive to work occasionally, out cruising the town if I can get away with my wife, and driving country roads. I always have it in the back of my mind that maybe someday doing autocross or even track days farther down the road but that's probably just a pipe dream.
I've searched on here a lot and have had trouble finding the specifics so I'd definitely appreciate any info on what you've used and been happy with. Thanks for whatever info you might have.
I use my car just to drive to work occasionally, out cruising the town if I can get away with my wife, and driving country roads. I always have it in the back of my mind that maybe someday doing autocross or even track days farther down the road but that's probably just a pipe dream.
I've searched on here a lot and have had trouble finding the specifics so I'd definitely appreciate any info on what you've used and been happy with. Thanks for whatever info you might have.
#2
i have an 85 and i bled the brakes which was very dark and nasty, got the middle grade pads and cheapest rotors i could. it stops AMAZING now. it was brutal before!!! better than my 2006 denali xl.
keep it simple.
keep it simple.
I'm thinking of completely doing the brakes on my 1985 soon and wanted to get some thoughts on rotors and pads. I'm not looking for anything over the top so not a full new Wilwood system or anything like that. Basically, I just want to improve what came from the factory with maybe a higher quality basic rotor and better pads. Not really even looking for cross drilled and/or slotted unless they're just a huge upgrade. That said, I'm not having much luck figuring out what plain old rotors are good.
I use my car just to drive to work occasionally, out cruising the town if I can get away with my wife, and driving country roads. I always have it in the back of my mind that maybe someday doing autocross or even track days farther down the road but that's probably just a pipe dream.
I've searched on here a lot and have had trouble finding the specifics so I'd definitely appreciate any info on what you've used and been happy with. Thanks for whatever info you might have.
I use my car just to drive to work occasionally, out cruising the town if I can get away with my wife, and driving country roads. I always have it in the back of my mind that maybe someday doing autocross or even track days farther down the road but that's probably just a pipe dream.
I've searched on here a lot and have had trouble finding the specifics so I'd definitely appreciate any info on what you've used and been happy with. Thanks for whatever info you might have.
#3
Racer
I have an 89 that was terrible when braking with stock rotors and pads. I switched the pads to Hawk HPS and it was night and day difference. Great on the street and perfect for autocross too.
#4
Thanks for the thoughts guys. My situation is basically what Viking wrote about with the dark fluid and all. I'm probably going to go with rotors from Jegs because they have the best price I've found for the braided lines. Just not sure what to go with.
Thanks for the suggestion about the Hawk pads too, Mike. Hopefully I'll start on this project soon because it just needs to be done.
Thanks for the suggestion about the Hawk pads too, Mike. Hopefully I'll start on this project soon because it just needs to be done.
#5
Team Owner
I had good luck with the Raybestos Professional Grade rotors or their "Advanced Technology" rotors. I have found that Rockauto has good pricing on these and also on a number of other brands. In the page that opens, just click on "Rotors" and a drop-down window opens where you can look at the various rotors that are offered.
Drilled and slotted rotors are IMHO pretty much just "bling" for street driving. With stock 16" wheels, you won't really see those features.
I'll agree that Hawk HPS pads work great for street use and for autocross. I have used both Earl's and Goodridge brake lines. Either one will work.
For fluid, use a good quality DOT3 fluid such as Castrol LMA or even the Ford Motorsports HD fluid. These two have wet temps at just below the DOT4 scale. If you want to use a DOT 4 fluid, ATE TYP200 works well and doesn't cost a lot. Figure on 3 pints to do a complete flush and refill.
You didn't mention how old the calipers are but it may be a good idea to consider replacing them. Most places will require a core charge so you would have to return the old calipers. Definitely get new guide pins and rubber boots in any event. Note also that some calipers are sold "loaded" which means that pads are included. Others may be called "friction-ready" which means no pads included.
Drilled and slotted rotors are IMHO pretty much just "bling" for street driving. With stock 16" wheels, you won't really see those features.
I'll agree that Hawk HPS pads work great for street use and for autocross. I have used both Earl's and Goodridge brake lines. Either one will work.
For fluid, use a good quality DOT3 fluid such as Castrol LMA or even the Ford Motorsports HD fluid. These two have wet temps at just below the DOT4 scale. If you want to use a DOT 4 fluid, ATE TYP200 works well and doesn't cost a lot. Figure on 3 pints to do a complete flush and refill.
You didn't mention how old the calipers are but it may be a good idea to consider replacing them. Most places will require a core charge so you would have to return the old calipers. Definitely get new guide pins and rubber boots in any event. Note also that some calipers are sold "loaded" which means that pads are included. Others may be called "friction-ready" which means no pads included.
#6
Supporting Vendor
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St. Jude Donor '11,'13
If you want a quality aftermarket pad take a look at the Carbotech 1521 pad. Low dust stops like OEM if not better and last longer. 100% non-corrosive dust will not harm your paint or wheels.
If interested let me know I will be happy to help you. http://ampdautosport.com/brake-pads/corvette/
Carbotech™ Bobcat 1521™ The Carbotech Bobcat 1521™ is our high performance street compound that is our most successful compound. The Bobcat compound is known for its awesome release and modulation, along with unmatched rotor friendliness. Like our AX™ & XP™ line of compounds, Bobcat 1521™ is a Ceramic based friction material offering minimal rotor damage and non-corrosive dust. Bobcat 1521™ offers outstanding performance, even when cold, low dusting and low noise with an excellent initial bite. This compound’s virtually perfect linear torque production provides incredible braking force without ABS intervention. Bobcat 1521™ operating range starts out at ambient and goes up to 900°F. Bobcat 1521™ is suitable for ALL street cars, perfect for your tow vehicle, police cruiser. The Bobcat 1521™ compound has been found to last two-three times longer than OE pads you can purchase at a dealership or national retailer. That’s one of the beauties of Carbotech Ceramic brake compounds. Bobcat 1521™ is NOT recommended for any track use.
F:$123 R:$113
As far as rotors just get some Centric premium rotors plain face they are like $45.00 a piece and are perfect for what you are trying to accomplish.
If interested let me know I will be happy to help you. http://ampdautosport.com/brake-pads/corvette/
Carbotech™ Bobcat 1521™ The Carbotech Bobcat 1521™ is our high performance street compound that is our most successful compound. The Bobcat compound is known for its awesome release and modulation, along with unmatched rotor friendliness. Like our AX™ & XP™ line of compounds, Bobcat 1521™ is a Ceramic based friction material offering minimal rotor damage and non-corrosive dust. Bobcat 1521™ offers outstanding performance, even when cold, low dusting and low noise with an excellent initial bite. This compound’s virtually perfect linear torque production provides incredible braking force without ABS intervention. Bobcat 1521™ operating range starts out at ambient and goes up to 900°F. Bobcat 1521™ is suitable for ALL street cars, perfect for your tow vehicle, police cruiser. The Bobcat 1521™ compound has been found to last two-three times longer than OE pads you can purchase at a dealership or national retailer. That’s one of the beauties of Carbotech Ceramic brake compounds. Bobcat 1521™ is NOT recommended for any track use.
F:$123 R:$113
As far as rotors just get some Centric premium rotors plain face they are like $45.00 a piece and are perfect for what you are trying to accomplish.
__________________
Adam Adelstein
Amp’D Autosport.com
Internet's largest retailer of Carbotech Performance Brake Pads.
PH:216-780-8825.
Email: sales@ampdautosport.com
Web Site & Direct ordering http://ampdautosport.com/
All major CC and Pay Pal accepted.
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Adam Adelstein
Amp’D Autosport.com
Internet's largest retailer of Carbotech Performance Brake Pads.
PH:216-780-8825.
Email: sales@ampdautosport.com
Web Site & Direct ordering http://ampdautosport.com/
All major CC and Pay Pal accepted.
Check out Promo code:z28
#7
Safety Car
I can tell you what's on my 86, but they were on the car when I bought it so I cannot give you a comparison. Braided lines, ceramic pads with drilled and slotted rotors. When cold they're pretty much comparable to my other vehicles with semi-metalic pads and regular rotors. After a little driving when they've warmed up a little, hit the brakes and it's capable of putting your nose to the steering wheel.
Personally I think it's a tad overkill for a steet car but it was on it when I bought it so I live with it this way.
Personally I think it's a tad overkill for a steet car but it was on it when I bought it so I live with it this way.
#8
Melting Slicks
I'm thinking of completely doing the brakes on my 1985 soon and wanted to get some thoughts on rotors and pads. I'm not looking for anything over the top so not a full new Wilwood system or anything like that. Basically, I just want to improve what came from the factory with maybe a higher quality basic rotor and better pads. Not really even looking for cross drilled and/or slotted unless they're just a huge upgrade. That said, I'm not having much luck figuring out what plain old rotors are good.
I use my car just to drive to work occasionally, out cruising the town if I can get away with my wife, and driving country roads. I always have it in the back of my mind that maybe someday doing autocross or even track days farther down the road but that's probably just a pipe dream.
I've searched on here a lot and have had trouble finding the specifics so I'd definitely appreciate any info on what you've used and been happy with. Thanks for whatever info you might have.
I use my car just to drive to work occasionally, out cruising the town if I can get away with my wife, and driving country roads. I always have it in the back of my mind that maybe someday doing autocross or even track days farther down the road but that's probably just a pipe dream.
I've searched on here a lot and have had trouble finding the specifics so I'd definitely appreciate any info on what you've used and been happy with. Thanks for whatever info you might have.
Friction is what does the stopping, for street use the hawk street brake pads. For track use the Hawk hp plus are great however only expect 3x brake pads per disc replacement, black brake dust is a side effect of Hawk HP plus.
Good quality discs are a must, I recommend you buy caliper rebuild kits from corvette central.
Remove the pistons clean them and replace the seals from the rebuild kits, replace the hoses new standard ones are fine.
I use dot 4 brake fluid, here is a tip gravity bleed the brakes to save the brake booster diaphragm.
just open the bleed screw "or remove them and refit when the new fluid comes through and bubbles are gone.
The ABS system does not like any air, only repeated abs activation and re bleeding will get the pedal right. But we do not suffer from that problem
Last edited by gerardvg; 05-01-2016 at 09:20 PM.
#9
Le Mans Master
Unless you're racing any decent rotor is fine from Napa or Autozone. Cross drilled and/or slotted is a waste of money if you're not racing.
Stopping power comes from the pads, the suggestion others mention here are great suggestions. I use the Hawk HPS and have been happy with them, minimal brake dust.
Stopping power comes from the pads, the suggestion others mention here are great suggestions. I use the Hawk HPS and have been happy with them, minimal brake dust.
#10
Thanks for all the thoughts everyone. How do the Hawk pads do as far as noise and dust? Just wondering because my friend put a full high performance system on his WS6 Firebird awhile back and they stopped great but made a ton of noise.